anyone have any experience cleaning or rebuilding the old EW petcocks? i took them off today and they're pretty nasty, didn't want to just throw them into carb cleaner because they look plastic/nylon-ish. anyone have advice on what to use to clean them, tools, chemicals, etc. also is there a way to take the screen off to clean things? it's so cruddy i can't tell and i don't want to just start yanking or twisting on it not knowing any better
cleaning/rebuilding petcocks
- Thread starter kevbo82
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DogT
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Kev,
Funny you should ask. I've been playing with my EW taps for a while now, but haven't tested them after cleaning and adjusting. They were leaking like crazy after 40 years, I drained a whole tank of avgas overnight with the taps closed. Here's what the parts look like. Unfortunately the circlip is not shown, but it's the top most piece.
All you need is circlip pliers (or small needle nose pliers) and when you remove the circlip under the lever, the whole thing falls apart, you can drive the pin out of the lever to enhance removal. I think someone recommended taking a fine file to the tapered insert to smooth it off. I tried a lot of rubbing compound and other stuff to polish the taper but to no effect. I finally used a file and removed some material off the taper and then used some compound to polish it, but I have yet to try the finished tap on a tank, but I'm thinking it may work. I got some new o-rings at a local auto store, they will have something that will fit close enough. The o-ring goes in the grove above the taper. The leakage from mine is through the tap, not out of the tap.
I think there are some nylon ones out there and they may not be repairable.
I can get better pictures and details if you like. I'd like to get mine working, it's just not been a big priority since I got the BAP taps. I have about 5 of the EW taps to play with.
If you want, we can work on this.
Dave
69S
Funny you should ask. I've been playing with my EW taps for a while now, but haven't tested them after cleaning and adjusting. They were leaking like crazy after 40 years, I drained a whole tank of avgas overnight with the taps closed. Here's what the parts look like. Unfortunately the circlip is not shown, but it's the top most piece.
All you need is circlip pliers (or small needle nose pliers) and when you remove the circlip under the lever, the whole thing falls apart, you can drive the pin out of the lever to enhance removal. I think someone recommended taking a fine file to the tapered insert to smooth it off. I tried a lot of rubbing compound and other stuff to polish the taper but to no effect. I finally used a file and removed some material off the taper and then used some compound to polish it, but I have yet to try the finished tap on a tank, but I'm thinking it may work. I got some new o-rings at a local auto store, they will have something that will fit close enough. The o-ring goes in the grove above the taper. The leakage from mine is through the tap, not out of the tap.
I think there are some nylon ones out there and they may not be repairable.
I can get better pictures and details if you like. I'd like to get mine working, it's just not been a big priority since I got the BAP taps. I have about 5 of the EW taps to play with.
If you want, we can work on this.
Dave
69S
So I took mine apart tonight, soaked the body in carb cleaner, cleaned everything put all back together super beautiful like, then I dropped the reserve one on the floor and broke the nylon where it holds the handle on! I closed it with a pick, thinking put it back on and hope I don't run out of gas!
concours
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For that tapered brass seat to seal, it must be lapped smooth. And flat. And round. In other words, not really something you can do short of re-machining it. A file will ruin it. It may already be ruined, a couple rust crumbs will (or already have) gall it when turned. Sorry to say, best to move on, replace. That type of valve is common in the gas (LP and Natural) world. Difference is, grease can be applied and will not be washed away by liquid gasoline.
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