Double checking msyself on the primary run downs above.
Check clutch hub splines are rippled rough to snag plate slide. No is normal, fair amount common. Check plate teeth are essentially square not vampire points.
Feel edges of the stamped out plate, put slightly round edge to face inward so spring press not resisted. I found a 1.5" end wrench works a treat on the big nut which turns CCW. I use ~ 1" Al squares 1/4" thick to trap basket and hub to nip and unnip. Big vice grips for down and dirty chain trapping to nip up and unnip. No need to put air impact amounts of torque on the sprocket nut as ain't much slide load and trapped by the clamp ring and screw. This has two set screw positions but usually one is buggered up except for new sprockets of course. Put ATF in the chain case, less mess if any on clutch plates and a few drops about evaporate if ya forget the blotter mat. If pure factory ain't a factor I like to replace the 3 small bolts with studs loctied in. Hope the sliding felt seal is still sealing, but might think about getting a couple of them to wet and stuff in to dry out. Pack grease around the adjuster rod to back up Dyno's front seal.
Hard to adjust the rotor/stator clearance if there's clash, If just questionable close a good smash on the stator protected by wood may do it, but otherwise its
hard drilling or grinding the stator steel plates for some slack. Inspect the rotor if loose on its core and good pull on metal yet.
Now would be good time to put degree wheel on and definitely mark TDC and the full adv time mark. I knife edge em through paint/ nail polish on the stator seam. Then can know what the factory gauge set at or knocked too.