CB750 rear wheel on 73 Commando ?

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The joy of my life is to see an old British bike which is nut and bolt perfect. My Seeley has a few Japanese parts on it - to my eyes, they stand out like dog's balls.
 
Hope you don’t mean that, as the four legged friends will come sniffing round your bike -you know what will happened next!:(
 
Klaus Monning said:
Hello,
there is another underrated advantage of the Suzuki rear wheel in the Norton swinging arm:
In case the rear wheel needs to be dismantled, the chain, sprocket carrier etc. can be left in place. Even the chain tension can be left as is. You don't have to touch this assy, because the original (but slightly altered) dumy axle is still in use. I think that is a real big advantage.
But there is also a big disadvantage of the whole set up: The braking performance of the rear wheel is only marginal, due to the bowden cable running from the left to the right hand side of the bike. I now try a differnt bowden cable that comes originally with the necessary bendings. I found one: It is the clutch cable from the Suzuki TL 1000. It needs to be altered also but let's see.
There may be another reason why the braking performance of the wheel wasn't satisfactory. I got the original Suzuki brake shoes re- lined by some company in Germany which are not speciallized on motorcycle brakes. They may have picked the wrong material. I will now try Ferrodo brake shoes and together with the new bowden calbe I hope to have found the right answer.
The marginal braking performance wasn't too important to me during the last 7000 miles, because my front brake is exceptionally good with the 12,7mm brake piston conversion I have for the front brake.
Best Regards
Klaus
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There is a drawback with using a rod operated rear brake-that is the swinging arm can vary the pressure on the braking, whereas with a Bowen cable the position of the swinging arm will go stay static.. . . . .
 
Yes Bernhard,
you are right there. But the old BMW- Designers positioned the rod operating point from the end of the brake pedal into the center of the swingingarm axle. That way the rod moved parallel to the swinging arm, and you didn't have the problem of a moving brake pedal. But I don't see a point designing this to the bike. I rather stick to the bowden cable, just as you probably do.
 
acotrel said:
The joy of my life is to see an old British bike which is nut and bolt perfect. My Seeley has a few Japanese parts on it - to my eyes, they stand out like dog's balls.
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If that's the joy of your life you should come to the UK and look around any classic bike show
You will see loads of bikes that are nut and bolt perfect, some of them even run !!
The ones that run usually run rough (very rich normally) amongst those there are some that run well and some that have been ridden there
If you go to the car park you will find bikes that work, now they are interesting!!
 
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