Cam damage

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htown16

htown16

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Took the timing cover off and found this on the end of the cam on the 74 850 I'm working on. Rust pitting.
Cam damage

Not sure if there is anything I can do about it. The worst damage is right where the seal runs. The cam itself and lobes look to be in decent shape. I think the DPO that pulled this out of a barn power washed it. I've found evidence of water in crankcase. Time will tell what we have there.
Right now I can't get the cam nut off. I don't have a cut away timing cover so I haven't tried to get to rough on it. I have another timing cover but I hate to cut it up. Most of them today on ebay are going for around 100$.
I looked at the Andover 06-7325 timing pinion support tool. Price on it is around 40$. Anyone had any experience with it? Looks a little flimsey. Anyone have a cutaway timing cover they would sell or loan out? I would be glad to pay postage.
 
One for sale on eBay, not sure if it's uk or us though, might be worth looking.
 
You will no doubt want to install a new cam chain when you rectify the cam journal damage, so it would not be a great loss to cut off the existing chain. You could Dremel grind two pins and remove a side plate.

Then you could weld the end of the chain onto a foot long bar, and use it as a chain wrench to apply counter torque on the cam sprocket while you torque the cam nut.

Slick
 
Try a seal saver, its a very thin hard steel sleeve that is pushed over the shaft. Most bearing suppliers will know of them. The last one I bought for a camshaft cost about £10.

Dave
 
Looks borderline as to whether it'll weep or not.

You can always turn it down and install an undersized seal...
 
in the US it is a speedy sleeve. if the rest is ok it is a good fix.

cash said:
Try a seal saver, its a very thin hard steel sleeve that is pushed over the shaft. Most bearing suppliers will know of them. The last one I bought for a camshaft cost about £10.

Dave
Click to expand...
 
cash said:
Try a seal saver, its a very thin hard steel sleeve that is pushed over the shaft. Most bearing suppliers will know of them. The last one I bought for a camshaft cost about £10.

Dave
Click to expand...

re: "Try a seal saver" pardon my ignorance but what exactly is an seal saver :?:
 
Bernhard said:
cash said:
Try a seal saver, its a very thin hard steel sleeve that is pushed over the shaft. Most bearing suppliers will know of them. The last one I bought for a camshaft cost about £10.

Dave
Click to expand...

re: "Try a seal saver" pardon my ignorance but what exactly is an seal saver?
Click to expand...

As he stated above "its a very thin hard steel sleeve that is pushed over the shaft"
 
CanukNortonNut said:
The trade name is called a speedi sleeve. You can get them where you purchase seals. http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http ... HgodklwMEw
I would take a good look at the cam lobes first before investing for one.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
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Thomas, I cannot help but hear in my mind the voice of James Earl Jones saying "This is CNN" every time I read your signature tag.

From now on, many others that read this will, also... (too bad, you can't UN-hear it)
 
The trade name is called a speedi sleeve. You can get them where you purchase seals. http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http ... HgodklwMEw
I would take a good look at the cam lobes first before investing for one.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...

Yes Thomas that's the little bu**er I've even got a spare one minus the tube used to knock it on. I'm pretty sure there's one on the cam in my Mk3 and I think the removable flange was difficult to get off.

Dave
 
htown16 said:
Cam damage
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'Looks exactly like an outboard motor I worked on earlier this summer. Waterpump shaft had corroded right in the seal area, allowing much water to be forced under pressure into the gearbox. Used this http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues- ... 47237_0_0/ as a new shaft was over $200. So far, it ran through the summer with no water in the gearbox.
It mixes up as a stiff putty that can be "massaged" into the pits of the very well cleaned shaft. Since you have areas of the shaft remaining as a reference surface, the epoxy can then be filed and sanded back to the original shaft diameter. Be prepared; it's damn hard once it sets up.

Nathan
 
Thanks for all of the responses. The sleeve sounds like a good idea. As far as I can tell the cam lobes look in good shape. Will have a better view once I get the cases split. One of our forum members is loaning me a cutaway timing cover, so hopefully things will be apart soon. Once again, proof of the power of these forums. Where would be without them.
 
Well things are finally coming apart. Had an electric impact gun but not the correct impact sockets and ended up ordering a couple of "King Dick" ones from the UK which took awhile to get here. Was considering using my regular whitworth sockets but glad I waited on the impact sockets as it took quite a bit of the gun hammering on the nuts to get them loose. Don't think it was red loctite, just corrosion as I don't see any evidence of the engine being apart before.
Will probably have to replace both the cam nut and worm gear as they got a bit beat up. The Woodruff keys in the cam and crank were also a bear to get out. Took several hours of struggle. Tap one end of the key then the other until they start to slightly rock, then pull out with a pair of side-cutters. I followed Mick Hemmings suggestion and ground the back of the sidecutters flat to get a better bite.
 
putting on the mickey mouse ears, an electronic ignition runs even with a bit of oil. The seal will probably not hold back the oil but it can be minimized by a good one way engine breather. A bit of sealer on the outer domed cover and it won't leak to the outside. A bit of tissue paper on the inside will sop up excess oil. Check off and on. Repairs on a budget.
 
I have similar rust pitting on my 2S Combat cam where it runs on the contact breaker oil seal. Is using a Speedi-Sleeve still considered a totally o.k. repair? A new 2S cam at the current exchange rate is $220 U.S. at Andover Norton, which looks cheap compared to having to split the cases again due to an oil leak into the points case.
Bill
 
I bought the special tool from Old Britts and it is very good. You will need it later for setting the cam chain tension anyway.
 
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