Boyer wires Braking

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A post from another board. Maybe it will help someone. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Only useing words can be hard. If you look at the Boyer plate that replaced the point plate you will see two wires coming out of that plate and a goob of epoxy holding them fast on the plate. Depending on the age of the unit you may find a nylon tie wrap around the same two wires at a mid point in the plate. Most of the time one wire will break at the tie, not all the way just a few strands at first. It's hard to find this break sometimes the bike will start and run well up to the point of a certain RPM, that is the RPM that is breaking the wire and will continue to as you replace every component on the bike. I have been thru this with seven bikes in the last two years only Commando's. So unhook the bullet connectors noteing witch wire is on the left and right holes in the plate. Cut the zip tie remove the plate from the bike after marking the timming location, I use a felt pen and than scribe a line in that mark. Now the plates in your hand small cheap lighter torch in other hand. Without ruining the circut board you must melt the solder on the back of the plate and pull the wires out. Reheat and useing a cotton cloth wipe away the old solder till the hole there is clean and clear. Repeat for other wire. This process finds the wire that is broken most if the time. Now you need a trip to the hardware, circut plate in pocket to find some short screws that will fit the holes in the board. They need to be long enough to go through the board and still fit two nuts on them. Also pick up some eyelet wire termanials that fit your screws, so, four nuts, two screws, two termanials, and two new male bullett conectors. Put the screws in the holes from the back to the front run down one nut and blue locktite in place on each screw. Now for more soldering, find an old piece of coax cable old TV stuff works and discect it till you have two short pieces of hollow braided wire, solder one end to the wire termanial and put some shrink wrap over that about one inch long crimp on the fresh male bullet connecters on the other end of the short hollow wires. Devise a color code for marking one of the new leads white or yellow electrical tape will do, a thin piece over the shrink wrap. Reinstall the plate, reconnect the wires now for the second set of nuts to hold the eyelett termanials down than the bullet connectors, and the hard parts done. You now need a small soft piece of foam to hot glue or silicone into the inside of the point cover that will keep the connected wires from ratteling Hope this works for you worked for me. Same simptoms as you cut out at mid to higher RPM's.


Just as important the power wire goes from the Boyer box to the coils and than to ground if this wire brakes or the ground wire from the motor to the frame brakes it can cause the same trouble. That's why I use a flat braided ground strap from the auto parts store to do the frame to engine connection. And make sure the coil wire is grounded at the top of that strap. norbsa
 
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