Boyer Kickback

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Hello to all that have helped with my kickback problem. This evening I pushstared the Norton and checked the timing at very low revs. Below 1500 rpm and the timing stayed pretty steady between 8-15 degrees before TDC with no advanced fluctuations. I then slowly revved it up to about 4000 RPM and it held steady at 31 degrees before TDC. As the revs got above 4500 the timing mark started to advance slightly erraticly jumping a little bit up to another 5 degrees further advanced than 31 degrees. Does this mean there still may be a problem or is this considered OK. I then turned the bike off and held my breath while I kickstarted it. It did not kick back and ran like a pussycat around the block with no obvious problems. As you know I did all the usual wiring repairs,new battery etc. etc. fixes and still had kickback before I finally changed out the Boyer with another untested used one from another bike. After reading my previous inquiries about kickback on the kick start do you think all is safe to kickstart several more times to test or do I still have an ignition problem due to the slighty higher 5 degree advance above 5000rpm????? What I mean is that above 4500 rpm it danced a little up to about 37 degrees advanced but all ranges below held steady at expected advance ranges.. Thanks for any further advise. My foot is still in one piece. --Mark C
 

L.A.B.

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If it hits 31 degrees @4000RPM then I would think the timing is still set too far advanced, as it should not reach 31 degrees until 5000 RPM.

According to the Boyer advance curve graph shown on the Dynodave website Boyer ignitions do continue to advance past the 5000 RPM mark:
http://atlanticgreen.com/images/anaboy4.jpg but reaching 37 degress does suggest that it is too far advanced.
 
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I second L.A.B.'s comments. A degree or two high past 5000 rpm is difficult to see exactly and won't normally cause problems but if I saw 37° I would certainly retard it. It would normally mean that it must be 5 or 6 degrees advanced at start-up rpm as well and that certainly won't be helping the problem.

If you just pinch the back-plate screws up finger tight, you can turn it carefully with the motor running. Have a listen and see how it sounds as you retard it. It might give you a clue as to whether you're close to a solution.

Just one more thought on your old Boyer unit, it could be that the problem lies in the sub-harness which is of course hard-wired into the box. It might be worthwhile cutting the wires about 1 1/2" from the box and soldering a new sub-harness in.
 
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