" I am also making these" ??? What is that thing Wolfie?? I have been using a CNW headsteady for the last year and I noticed a big improvment in handling over the stock one although to be fair I must say mine was badly cracked so anything would have been better. Funney story, I used very small amounts of locktight on the bolts to the top tube and about a month after I installed it they fell out leaving the top of the headsteady disconnected & to tell the truth I didn't notice anything other than more vibration! Put some new bolts in and I have been happy with it ever since.
Best Head Steadys? rate...
- Thread starter interstateOz
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Swooshdave,
None taken mate.
The threaded boss was my first choice of mount, but on the first attempt I found the boss wasn't well toleranced on the two bikes I tried and neither motor had the same centre
. That made the link a bugger to set square across the frame. With hindsight I don't think it matters that much.Regards longevity, the original link is still on my Commando it's done something like 50,000 miles has never squeaked or shows any sign of wear. Having said that fitting dust seals can only be a positive step as long as you don't pressure wash and fill them with water.
If you've got the time and effort three links has to be the way to go, but for me, one does everything to the bike I need.
Cash
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Cash,
You must be easier on yours than I was. Admittedly I was running a 920 that was not smooth. Whenever I would stop with the engine at idle and me in the saddle the joints would chirp with every engine revolution so I started spraying them with chain lube to keep them quiet. A little chain lube and dust from the gravel road on my commute to work made a great grinding paste and when I went to adjust the isos to get rid of a developing shimmy I found a half mm of play in each joint. So I replaced them right before my annual rally trip and rode a little better than 2000 miles in the rain. When I got home they were loose and squeaking again. So I removed it from my streetbike and installed it on my racebike and promptly crashed at Sears Point and broke it. [along with everything else] Jim
You must be easier on yours than I was. Admittedly I was running a 920 that was not smooth. Whenever I would stop with the engine at idle and me in the saddle the joints would chirp with every engine revolution so I started spraying them with chain lube to keep them quiet. A little chain lube and dust from the gravel road on my commute to work made a great grinding paste and when I went to adjust the isos to get rid of a developing shimmy I found a half mm of play in each joint. So I replaced them right before my annual rally trip and rode a little better than 2000 miles in the rain. When I got home they were loose and squeaking again. So I removed it from my streetbike and installed it on my racebike and promptly crashed at Sears Point and broke it. [along with everything else] Jim
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- Jul 24, 2006
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About 15 years ago, I bought a Norvil head steady, and as I recall, it increased vibration with no noticable improvement to the handling as far as I could tell. I found it hard to set up getting the clearances correct as well.
I do have a "cash" DT headsteady on my present Norton and it seems to make the handling more taut/precise, and I am very happy with it. No wear evident yet in the joints, but with only about 4,000 miles on it.
I do have a "cash" DT headsteady on my present Norton and it seems to make the handling more taut/precise, and I am very happy with it. No wear evident yet in the joints, but with only about 4,000 miles on it.
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- May 16, 2010
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Hey bwolfie, does ur unit work the same as the Norvil unit with 2 rubbers? Also can I ask how much ur cam changer unit is as I'm doing a motor rebuild very soon? Also has it been tested in a bike yet?
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Wolfe if you don't sell Ms Peel one of your quick change cam dodads I'll send a switchblade drone over to get ya.
While real machinists and creative thinkers collected on this, here's something to chew on that is still a mystery to me. I scabbed up Peel top link in 04" but mainly to see if rod link there transmitted vibration = none at all, yea! In my hick expedient hast, I ended up with like 6" of bolt sections at odd angles extending from under tube threads to just above head. I can bend it elastically by hand somewhat. It just returns to unstressed state instantly no rebound. So the mystery is did I accidentally stumble on extra feature no one else has done, but gives Ms Peel her uncanny unbelievable smooth disappearing act while being impossible to onset hinged handling or tank slap or anything, yet I can feel the whole chassis twist up from bars through seat and pegs, and hold that twist up as long as power increasing and traction still hooking, then when loads cut, chassis unwraps to unstressed state wonderfully w/o hint of rebound or ringing.
Peels front link post on frame is also hand deflectable with some grunting, an embarrassingly wimpy crappy construction but boy howdy good enough Peel mission now is to depress them elite plastic electronic interface wonders.
Everyone else is aiming for most rigid solutions, and for sure Peel rump rod is robustly rigid, but now wonder if her overall complaint chassis is best way to go to get ahead? Need more experimenting rough riders for feed back, as ya don't want me testing someone else ride to find out for sure.
While real machinists and creative thinkers collected on this, here's something to chew on that is still a mystery to me. I scabbed up Peel top link in 04" but mainly to see if rod link there transmitted vibration = none at all, yea! In my hick expedient hast, I ended up with like 6" of bolt sections at odd angles extending from under tube threads to just above head. I can bend it elastically by hand somewhat. It just returns to unstressed state instantly no rebound. So the mystery is did I accidentally stumble on extra feature no one else has done, but gives Ms Peel her uncanny unbelievable smooth disappearing act while being impossible to onset hinged handling or tank slap or anything, yet I can feel the whole chassis twist up from bars through seat and pegs, and hold that twist up as long as power increasing and traction still hooking, then when loads cut, chassis unwraps to unstressed state wonderfully w/o hint of rebound or ringing.
Peels front link post on frame is also hand deflectable with some grunting, an embarrassingly wimpy crappy construction but boy howdy good enough Peel mission now is to depress them elite plastic electronic interface wonders.
Everyone else is aiming for most rigid solutions, and for sure Peel rump rod is robustly rigid, but now wonder if her overall complaint chassis is best way to go to get ahead? Need more experimenting rough riders for feed back, as ya don't want me testing someone else ride to find out for sure.
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- May 16, 2010
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Can I ask where's the best places to buy the rod/tie ends for the guys that have made there own? I like the selection u posted hobot nice work!
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- Jan 23, 2010
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And here is one that Andover Norton already produce. My son Tim redesigned the original production racer headsteady, using the original Peter Willams 1969 drawing in our posession and having an original production racer headsteady plus a couple of later versions on his desk: http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/News.htm
Just rode Tim's Commando with it fitted and it convinced me I want to throw the pathetic version we have in our "family racer"- no, I will not disclose who I got it from- out immediately.
I will also fit one to the Commando I am still trying to finish for this summer for myself (750 short stroke for normal road use).
Joe Seifert
Just rode Tim's Commando with it fitted and it convinced me I want to throw the pathetic version we have in our "family racer"- no, I will not disclose who I got it from- out immediately.
I will also fit one to the Commando I am still trying to finish for this summer for myself (750 short stroke for normal road use).
Joe Seifert
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- Oct 19, 2005
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Again, racers are brutes that are hard hearted engine destroying maniacs that are about numb to minor distraction like hands to teeth going tingly on hi adrenalized short distance race events. They even run solid mounts to get away with more buzz but a bit better handling, so beware you street riders not staying in upper rpm band, if ya stick any extra rubber mass in engine support.
Bob Patton and I got our special "Elastometeric" cushioned rod ends from Lords mount distributer, Alingaball, as we feared all metal would transmit vibes, but other not so scared, used all metal and still run silent. Rod ends can be found in likes of JEG's hot rod supply or Aircraft Spruce and a bunch of other sources, even Harley has some nice ones of all finishes and sized. The main issue is getting male opposite threaded bolt or female radius link in correct lenght. There are no more Elastometrics available, sold out to you know who and not enough call to make more.
Bob Patton and I got our special "Elastometeric" cushioned rod ends from Lords mount distributer, Alingaball, as we feared all metal would transmit vibes, but other not so scared, used all metal and still run silent. Rod ends can be found in likes of JEG's hot rod supply or Aircraft Spruce and a bunch of other sources, even Harley has some nice ones of all finishes and sized. The main issue is getting male opposite threaded bolt or female radius link in correct lenght. There are no more Elastometrics available, sold out to you know who and not enough call to make more.
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