Best Head Steadys? rate...

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Some rod ends are plastic/fiber composite with pretty good strength specs, so if you can take the teasing like me, might be less cost, weight and even some elastometric isolation.

Best Head Steadys? rate...

http://www.igus.com/wpck/default.aspx?p ... 7AodD2FSIg

http://alinabal.thomasnet.com/category/ ... lpver=1003

http://www.jegs.com/c/Chassis-Steering- ... 3/10002/-1

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/601-312
Best Head Steadys? rate...
 
OH yeah after doing it both ways, I find male end with female radius adjuster gives most trim appearance.
 
Bob, please ping me, Greg Faulth and I have a mechanical gift for your Norton efforts and testing. Links good as they can be, only do so much all by themselves.
Not going to pester you, just some details needed to get a proper fitting.
hobot@madisoncounty.net
 
bpatton said:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sealsit.php

Seals are pretty cheap. I'm due for replacement rodends so maybe they'll go on this time around.
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these fit front and back, or just in the front?
 
Rod clearance wear is yet to have occurred on Ms Peel 7000 miles existence and at least 1/4th that was on dusty/gritty paths as it gets. I can't ignore Bob's pointer to the cheap covers/insurance so will collect some soon. On the other hand, just how bad a hit to replace the worn ends compared to tires or speedo drives?

Have a chuckle at my expense on hay seed engineered top link, even though it works a treat. So spindly, the rod end spacers 2nd function is to distract from looking closer

Best Head Steadys? rate...
 
hobot said:
Rod clearance wear is yet to have occurred on Ms Peel 7000 miles existence and at least 1/4th that was on dusty/gritty paths as it gets. I can't ignore Bob's pointer to the cheap covers/insurance so will collect some soon. On the other hand, just how bad a hit to replace the worn ends compared to tires or speedo drives?

Have a chuckle at my expense on hay seed engineered top link, even though it works a treat. So spindly, the rod end spacers 2nd function is to distract from looking closer
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What does that spring do?
 
Hehe, thanks for noticing, it sorta like asking what's a lemon, baby bottom and a boat bottom have in common? Baby and boat are always wet.

Spring was most handy light item on hand to hold rod end down on its spacer.
Front link post used a length of oid oil line hose. Expedient solution to get to testing it out. Next time will hunt around hardware store.
 
BTW all 3 of Peel's center to center lengths are all over 5" wide. The longer the radius arc the more motion allowed w/o conflicting bind when mounting axis of each link is in opposition to ala Watt's like. Would love to know the lengths attained by others but its a non issue until 2 or more are in set up in conflicting control vectors. Most of what needs taming is not side/side motion at top but the
side to side motion at the front iso from the rear iso pivot from rear patch forces.

There is a twisting element also but I find that saves my life leaving phase 2 handling, so think its the key to Commando as best handling motorcycle ever conceived. Harley got the full Mounty via Hooper which includes 3 links to tame the rubbers. Too bad they didn't use the tube type but a diaphragm type. But then again Big V vibes worse and off center so might not work for them.
 
Hi!
I have been reading quite a number of discussions on the difference between OldBritts and Dave Taylor head steady, but I still have to decide between the two..

now, I would go for the Taylor's, but I have a concern if the clamp and the spring may foul the fiberglass tank, perhaps even lifting it up a bit and then changing the lines of the motorbike..

furthermore, is everything quite hidden under the tank not to be seen?

.. oh btw, mine is a roadster with the small tank.. is there anyone who experienced this who can tell?
thanX!
 
I can not speak to the performance yet (which is probably the most important) . . . as I just finished the rebuild . . . but aesthetically the CNW (Comstock) is way nicer than the Dave Taylor. I am guessing the performance is equal if not better with CNW - but that is a guess.

I am way more fond of using the original mounting holes too. The Dave Taylor clamp style, no matter how much you pad, is going to guss up your frame.
 
I have had the Taylor steady installed for over a year now. Glad I got it, i like how it sharpened the handling.



It is a clean install and out of sight. I don't understand your comment about how it gusses up the frame.
 
I think he meand the aluminum block that clamps to the frame tube instead of threading into the welded bosses.
 
I think all the top steadies being sold have shortened radius enough to allow safe clearance of all styles of factory tanks. In my eyeball trial error top link fitting I did not compensate for the tank height mounting for tank tunnel tapper clearance in MS Peel [first ever installed top rod I know of] so got buzzed and then a gas weep out of Caswell sealed tank - till I took the head plate off to slice off the stud mount to have re-welded a tad closer in, ugh. JBWeld sealed tank again and got another 5000 miles rough ride and rougher crashes out of no problemo - so far.
 
1up3down said:
I have had the Taylor steady installed for over a year now. Glad I got it, i like how it sharpened the handling.



It is a clean install and out of sight. I don't understand your comment about how it gusses up the frame.
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I think he means that it will wear where it clamps.
 
Ah, ok. Yes the Taylor does clamp on the frame.

Why would I care if by being clamped in place it might muss the frame paint a bit?

Because I have no intention of ever taking it off (I love it), I will just have to live with the shame somehow.
 
If you ever see just how thin the tubes are, the thought might well occur to you too. but Taylor steady is longest on market and no reports yet of frame damage and not likely as most the motion is in a front/rear arch not much sideways which is also resisted by the iso rubbers to a good degree too. If the paint comes out and clamp force lost then its time to worry due to the beating fatigue. Powder coat under fasteners it too famous for this.
 
My Taylor steady is 3 years on with nice results.

Nothing scientific; just an all around good value, like a Sparx ignition. Might not be the absolute best on the market, but it's an excellent value.
 
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