AN Rear Brake Cable Issue

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/20513/rear-brake-cable-with-sw-tch-jpn-

When I put the Norvil rear sets on my Interstate I just reused the brake cable but that left me without a rear brake light switch. On my 750 I used the a shorter cable from Old Britts (http://www.oldbritts.com/15_060482.html) which they don't offer anymore.

The issue came when I went to install the cable, the ferrel was too big.

Sorry, picture didn't come out.

But the difference was signifcant enough that I had to file the part down at least .05"

When I got back from my test ride the cover of the brake switch (it's lightly dimpled on) came loose). I don't know if I will be fighting this for a while or if I need to glue it on.

The good news is the the rear brake light works and the new cable actually works (the old cable was, ahem, well pass it's prime).

And the test ride was fun.

Gadge · Jul 25, 2020

I tried the brake cable with the switch in it but wasn't impressed. Plan B was the high tech use of an aftermarket switch and a cable tie. I'm embarrassed to say that's it worked so well I haven't done a proper job a year on and a couple of thousand miles later. I intend to add a bracket to the pillion footrest plates but been doing other higher priority fettling.

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

Wasn't impressed how?

kommando · Jul 25, 2020

The switch adds travel to a short travel pedal so you lose some braking effect.

My solution

A micro switch mounted on the main plate, a long bolt with the head touching the micro switch toggle. So properly adjusted all the limited travel, bar the shoe clearance, goes into brake travel.

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

Why does the switch add travel? It's not like the cable is two pieces.

kommando · Jul 25, 2020

Assuming its based on the BSA/Triumph/Norton inline cable brake switch the first bit of the travel is used internally to bring the contacts together, only then does the travel then progress to move the brake.

Front brake switch question

Has anyone thought of a clever way to lengthen / alter the contacts on the in-line front brake cable switch such that it closes the circuit without having to squeeze the lever so hard your front brake locks up? I've already played with the barrels on the cables to lengthen it as much as possible...

www.accessnorton.com

Gadge · Jul 25, 2020

swooshdave said:
Wasn't impressed how?

I thought the switch design a joke and likely to fail. 70s brake light are hardly the brightest things in the world and I like to know the dozy driver behind knows I'm braking. Not sure I had the same cable as you, I recall the switch was in the middle somewhere.I

I did think about a micro switch like Kommando's but it would have taken some faffing so tried the simple, if a bit of a bodge, solution.

olympus · Jul 25, 2020

What about an earlier model cable with integrated stop switch..

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

olympus said:
What about an earlier model cable with integrated stop switch..

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

I see you didn’t see the link in the first post.

olympus · Jul 25, 2020

Too muchly rose..hic

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

Gadge said:
I thought the switch design a joke and likely to fail. 70s brake light are hardly the brightest things in the world and I like to know the dozy driver behind knows I'm braking. Not sure I had the same cable as you, I recall the switch was in the middle somewhere.I

I did think about a micro switch like Kommando's but it would have taken some faffing so tried the simple, if a bit of a bodge, solution.

I don’t sweat the switch actually working. The odds of me slamming in the rear brake only are slim to none.

I’ll try it again and see if I feel the switch working but initially I didn’t.

kommando · Jul 25, 2020

olympus said:
What about an earlier model cable with integrated stop switch..

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

Same switch as the BSA/Tri/Norton one I referenced, it has a squidgy piece of rubber holding the contacts apart and the movement of the outer is used to compress this, so no movement for braking until the rubber is squashed.

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

kommando said:
Same switch as the BSA/Tri/Norton one I referenced, it has a squidgy piece of rubber holding the contacts apart and the movement of the outer is used to compress this, so no movement for braking until the rubber is squashed.

It’s not that there’s no braking but rather you have to press harder than without the switch.

kommando · Jul 25, 2020

swooshdave said:
It’s not that there’s no braking but rather you have to press harder than without the switch.

With rearsets you lose leverage so why add something that makes it even worse.

swooshdave · Jul 25, 2020

kommando said:
With rearsets you lose leverage so why add something that makes it even worse.

Because it's not bad?

As you can see here it's works very nicely. There's a slight, and I mean slight bit of slack that is taken up but it's not even noticeable when you step on the brake. Only when you go really, really slow.

ashman · Jul 25, 2020

I mounted a old Honda dirt bike switch with a spring works great and a lot better than to stock switch had one from my old Honda and have got a few spares but after 10 years the first one is still working great and work with any set up you have on your bike.

Ashley

B+Bogus · Jul 26, 2020

I think the original PRs had a rather elaborate dedicated switch actuator lever and bracket arrangement on the drum end which looked godawful and for some strange reason no-one has seen fit to replicate.
As I understand it, for this period UK Law stipulates one brake has to have a functioning light switch, and it was traditionally the back brake. I never found out if it HAS to be the back brake?

olympus · Jul 26, 2020

B+Bogus said:
As I understand it, for this period UK Law stipulates one brake has to have a functioning light switch, and it was traditionally the back brake. I never found out if it HAS to be the back brake?

This is correct, and incorrectly failed by some testers
For some reason it has always been perceived that the rear brake should operate the switch.
My old Tiger 100 was purchased with a bulb horn..... totally useless IMHO but perfectly legal, a local bike shop tester decided otherwise and tried to fail it.

acadian · Jul 26, 2020

UJM switch works great, cheap and easy to find.

AN Rear Brake Cable Issue

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