Roadster with Peashooters - Rear Brake Cable

There have been threads on this subject before, but with different solutions, none of which I find satisfying.

The rear brake cable when installed on a Roadster with peashooters, interferes with the silencer mount bracket (06.1720) as shown in the first picture. That's a brand new cable from AN and it's already scuffed just by installing it – this bike is being built and has never sat on the rear wheel.

Although I've never seen it, I understand that the factory started adding a washer or washers to one or more of the Z-Plate spacers to move the silencer mount further out. That certainly will work but it seems a bit of a kludge. Since I wanted to use polished stainless steel spacers I decided to do it a different way.

The factory large Z-Plate spacer (06.0472) is approx. 35/64" thick and the two smaller spacers are 5/8" thick. I used the same ID and OD for each but 5/8" thick for the large spacer and 3/4" thick for the small spacers. This spaces the silencer mounting out a little over 1/8" since the large spacers is only 5/64" thicker and the other two are 1/8" thicker.

The second picture shows the result. There's now plenty of clearance to the silencer mount. The cable touches the swing arm, but I will tie wrap it to the swing arm at that point so there will be no rubbing. The cable lies nicely between the various nuts and won't hit them as the swing arm moves. The third picture is another view.

The fourth picture just shows the spacers in place. Besides the spacers, you need two 3/8" UNF x 2-1/4" bolts. The standard bolts (14.0235) are 2" long and are a little short. The 1/2" rear mount stud is long enough for the new spacer.

This should only be done to the drive side and moving the timing side out will cause even more problems with the kick starter hitting the silencer.

I recommend swapping the inner rubber silencer mounting nuts with thin nylocks, then cutting down the rubber mount studs to the nut's surface; finish it off with a bit of polishing. You'll find that the brake cable is clear of the bottom nut when it is bearing its own weight and will run between the 2 nuts while motoring.

I have the skeletonized "Z" plates which offers an additional routing choice for the brake cable after getting some good information from members, LAB in particular: the link below may be of some help.


Best.

RoadScholar said:

I recommend swapping the inner rubber silencer mounting nuts with thin nylocks, then cutting down the rubber mount studs to the nut's surface; finish it off with a bit of polishing. You'll find that the brake cable is clear of the bottom nut when it is bearing its own weight and will run between the 2 nuts while motoring.

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I normally do that but noticed on this one that the bottom nut does not interfere with the cable. This is a customer bike with Hagon shocks so that might be why - they may be shorter - haven't checked. With the new Z-Plate spacers, the cable fits nicely between the silencer mount and swing arm with reasonable clearance. With the stock spacers, it touched both the swing arm and silencer mount.

I had acceptable clearance on both sides of the brake cable but when running the vibration was causing the edge of the silencer mounting nut to cut into the cable sheathing.

I understand for a customer this solution is probably not an acceptable solution for you, but this simple cable "insulator" works well. It maintains correct spacing of the cable between the silencer mount and swing arm, is virtually unseen and keeps the silencer mounting nut from digging into the cable sheath when running.

I led mine through the mounts - not perfect but a better lie than behind . Rubber jacket is chafing a bit - radiusing the back corner of the inner mounting plate will help - a project for the winter

That illustration from Norton is really weak but thank you Ron L for putting it up.
Also, I am assuming the Norton note is addressing the chafing of the cable and not the sheath?
I read that as the cable routed between the inboard and outboard silencer mount plates...the same way RT guided his...yeah?
I tried that route when I was fitting my brake setup the first time around when reassembling/restoring.
When I routed the cable that way it put way too much twist/off-center rubbing against the end/outlet barrel. My objective was to keep the cable centered within the sheath/end barrels on both ends.
This is the direction final assembly took me and the one I settled on.

Lineslinger said:

That illustration from Norton is really weak but thank you Ron L for putting it up.
I have a clue regarding mechanical drawing and read that as the cable routed between the inboard and outboard silencer mounts...the same way RT guided his...yeah?

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You betcha - also , as I have eliminated the passenger foot pegs I made up a plate in Stainless to replace the one that said footrests attach to . New plate acts as a fair lead to guide brake cable @ pedal end .

Ron L said:

View attachment 18394

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That is not for a Roadster with Peashooters. I realize it says all Commandos, but a Roadster with Peashooters does not have the brackets shown. Also, if you route it inside the brackets, the cable will rub hard on the inner bracket at the rear.

74 Mk2 - roadster w/ peashooters here. no rub. had the same problem routing the rear brake cable. Ron L (not LAB) originally posted some sort of tech bulletin that re-routed the brake cable - this was one area where I disagreed with the factory. I did keep the additional .070 spacer washers in with the smaller spacers which kicked the mufflers out a bit. on the inboard side of the muffler mounts, I trimmed the iso mount studs and used low profile nuts on the inboard side and same with the two mounting bolts. on the rear foot peg mount, used a round head or button head bolt (hex drive) replacing the standard hex head. all new hardware was stainless. everything fit, and I don't seem to have any interference issues with any up and down movement of the trailing arm. the new brake cable was an AN part which seemed to be a slightly larger diameter than the original factory OE part. I think the key is the additional two .070 spacer washers added to the support plate mounting spacers (and the low profile hardware). kicks the muffler out just enough for everything to clear.

joe czech said:

LAB originally posted some sort of tech bulletin that re-routed the brake cable

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I think not!

joe czech said:

- this was one area where I disagreed with the factory.

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I've stated previously that I don't agree that the Service Bulletin information was intended for peashooter plates as I've yet to see a factory photo that shows the cable routed between the plates as mentioned in the Service Bulletin posted by Ron L above so as far as I'm aware the factory never routed the cable between the plates at least not for peashooters. If the cable is routed between the peashooter plates then it can damage the sheathing.


The (not completely accurate) drawing is of the black cap silencer plates where the cable does not pass between the outer exhaust plate and AV mounts....



...as it must with peashooter plates.

L.A.B. said:

I think not!

Click to expand...

my bad. went back and checked my old threads - it WAS member "Ron L" - sorry. corrected my post.

anyway, when I got my Mk2 (w/ peashooters), had the cable routed per the service info. the sheathing was worn, damaged, and the inboard mounting plate was actually worn from cable rub. not sure why anybody at the factory thought that was a good idea.

joe czech said:

not sure why anybody at the factory thought that was a good idea.

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The Service Bulletin was issued by Norton Triumph Corporation, Duarte, California so perhaps the information didn't come from the factory?

L.A.B. said:

The Service Bulletin was issued by Norton Triumph Corporation, Duarte, California so perhaps the information didn't come from the factory?

Click to expand...

OK, not sure why "anybody" thought that was a good idea -

joe czech said:

OK, not sure why "anybody" thought that was a good idea -

Click to expand...

What about a tough rubber outer sleeve where required, that can be changed when worn?

What I did , used oil line I think hardly noticeable by me ....

marshg246 said:

There have been threads on this subject before, but with different solutions, none of which I find satisfying.

The rear brake cable when installed on a Roadster with peashooters, interferes with the silencer mount bracket (06.1720) as shown in the first picture. That's a brand new cable from AN and it's already scuffed just by installing it – this bike is being built and has never sat on the rear wheel.

Although I've never seen it, I understand that the factory started adding a washer or washers to one or more of the Z-Plate spacers to move the silencer mount further out. That certainly will work but it seems a bit of a kludge. Since I wanted to use polished stainless steel spacers I decided to do it a different way.

The factory large Z-Plate spacer (06.0472) is approx. 35/64" thick and the two smaller spacers are 5/8" thick. I used the same ID and OD for each but 5/8" thick for the large spacer and 3/4" thick for the small spacers. This spaces the silencer mounting out a little over 1/8" since the large spacers is only 5/64" thicker and the other two are 1/8" thicker.

The second picture shows the result. There's now plenty of clearance to the silencer mount. The cable touches the swing arm, but I will tie wrap it to the swing arm at that point so there will be no rubbing. The cable lies nicely between the various nuts and won't hit them as the swing arm moves. The third picture is another view.

The fourth picture just shows the spacers in place. Besides the spacers, you need two 3/8" UNF x 2-1/4" bolts. The standard bolts (14.0235) are 2" long and are a little short. The 1/2" rear mount stud is long enough for the new spacer.

This should only be done to the drive side and moving the timing side out will cause even more problems with the kick starter hitting the silencer.

View attachment 18379 View attachment 18386 View attachment 18387 View attachment 18388

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Hi,In the last photo the alloy Z plate seems to be missing a couple of washers that go between the frame and the chrome steel spacers and then also a washer and then the Z plate. Should be one on each face of this spacer, not shown in the parts diagram. I am sure someone will chime in about this.

HRD said:

Hi,In the last photo the alloy Z plate seems to be missing a couple of washers that go between the frame and the chrome steel spacers and then also a washer and then the Z plate. Should be one on each face of this spacer, not shown in the parts diagram. I am sure someone will chime in about this.

Click to expand...

Read my original post to understand the point of this thread.

I know many will disagree, but this is how my Roadster has been fitted for over 20 years. Yes, the muffler mount is split (and has since been replaced), but that has nothing to do with the cable.

HRD said:

Hi,In the last photo the alloy Z plate seems to be missing a couple of washers that go between the frame and the chrome steel spacers and then also a washer and then the Z plate. Should be one on each face of this spacer, not shown in the parts diagram. I am sure someone will chime in about this.

Click to expand...

i'm thinking the two 3/8" support plate bolts actually have three (3) washers and one (1) spacer. I can verify the additional spacers (actually, the third washer) used on the two 3/8" bolts. when I removed my support plates I was puzzled by the two additional washers (which BTW were approximately .070 thick) - they were not in the parts diagram. seems the additional washers are supposed to kick the muffler mounts enough for cable clearance, but in my case, I had to use low profile hardware on the inboard side of the LH muffler mount. BTW, like Greg, I increased the length of the 3/8 bolts to 2-1/4 length - I agree, they seem a bit too short, and in some cases, barely, if any threads showing beyond the nut. only that solved my rub issue. I understand what Greg did - custom made spacers , which i'm guessing accomplishes the same thing.