AMAL MK2 Carbs Availability?

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Hi Ken

Found them in the garage.
Chrome slides few marks on the inlet side.
I have bellmouths somewhere.
Flat plastic carb tops but I also have domed one's.
However best bit is!!!

They are bored to 40mm
Can't believe it.
Will speak to my brother i.e. couriering them over.

All the best Chris
 
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Chris said:
Hi Ken

Found them in the garage.
Chrome slides few marks on the inlet side.
I have bellmouths somewhere.
Flat plastic carb tops but I also have doled one's.
However best but is!!!

They are bored to 40mm
Can't believe it.
Will speak to my brother i.e. couriering them over.

All the best Chris
Click to expand...

Perfect! Back in the day I bored several 32mm Concentrics to 33mm, and they worked well, so I would have been ready to do the same with the MKIIs. But it's nice to not have to.

Ken​
 
storm42 said:
Had a word with a guy on the Amal stand and he said that they would need to retool to make the 2000 series carbs and he couldn't say if that was going to happen.

I had to get some bits from Surrey Cycles and they have 5 of the 38mm carbs shown in the picture, I know it say 2 on the paper but the other 3 are back at the shop awaiting reconditioning. https://surreycycles.com/

View attachment 9947
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storm42 said:
Had a word with a guy on the Amal stand and he said that they would need to retool to make the 2000 series carbs and he couldn't say if that was going to happen.

I had to get some bits from Surrey Cycles and they have 5 of the 38mm carbs shown in the picture, I know it say 2 on the paper but the other 3 are back at the shop awaiting reconditioning. https://surreycycles.com/

View attachment 9947
Click to expand...


Thanks, Storm. I suspect there are a fair number of smaller shops out there that still have some 2000 series MKIIs gathering dust, both new and used, probably more so in the UK than here. Interesting that Surrey Cycles charges more for a refurbished 38mm carb than RGM does for a new one. Then again, I'm not sure if RGM actually have any left in stock. In any case, I think Chris may have solved my problem, so I won't be shopping around for more carbs at this time.

Ken
 
dguzzi said:
Oh dang, I was going to offer up 2 (used) 34mm MkII's
When I was looking at them a guy suggested boring them out, not so sure that makes sense as you lose the slide support.
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I had a pair of 34mm MkIIs bored to 36mm in the '70s. I though that worked better than a pair of Amal made 36s, but I couldn't prove it. That was as far as you could go with them.

36mms upward are a larger body size, even if they use the same float bowl.....

I have a 38mm MkII on my SR500...thinking of going Mikuni if the needle falls out once more!

Though at the weekend I was told to glue it...didn't catch what was the recommended glue!
 
lcrken said:
Thanks, Storm. I suspect there are a fair number of smaller shops out there that still have some 2000 series MKIIs gathering dust, both new and used, probably more so in the UK than here. Interesting that Surrey Cycles charges more for a refurbished 38mm carb than RGM does for a new one. Then again, I'm not sure if RGM actually have any left in stock. In any case, I think Chris may have solved my problem, so I won't be shopping around for more carbs at this time.

Ken
Click to expand...

I suppose Surrey had decided it is a sellers market and they might be right until/if Amal re-tool.
 
SteveA said:
I had a pair of 34mm MkIIs bored to 36mm in the '70s. I though that worked better than a pair of Amal made 36s, but I couldn't prove it. That was as far as you could go with them.

36mms upward are a larger body size, even if they use the same float bowl.....

I have a 38mm MkII on my SR500...thinking of going Mikuni if the needle falls out once more!

Though at the weekend I was told to glue it...didn't catch what was the recommended glue!
Click to expand...

That is what I run on my bike 34mm bored to 36mm, when I told the dyno guy I had brought some proper 36mm carbs to try against the 34/36s he said they used to bore the 34s in preference to using proper 36s, he reckoned they flowed better.

I would lock-wire the circlip.
 
I don’t understand how the needle clip can come adrift? A good and correct clip is a tight fit, and it’s held down firmly and true by the big washer which is held down by the spring.

What am I missing ??
 
Fast Eddie said:
I don’t understand how the needle clip can come adrift? A good and correct clip is a tight fit, and it’s held down firmly and true by the big washer which is held down by the spring.

What am I missing ??
Click to expand...


Well I mentioned it had happened twice on my single 38mm to Bruno Perlinski on Friday...he said...'Yes, of course they do....you have to glue it!'...suggesting this was common knowledge!

(actually it also happened to me on a borrowed Commando on 32mm MkIIs, but of course it was only a 50% failure there, 1 from 2! When I ran my 34mm/36mm MkIIs in the '70s for 4 years, it never happened)

And no...it isn't held firmly down by the big washer....I have had to fit a small thin washer above the clip to stop it waggling around and moving up and down!

What I have noticed is the clip can wear the slot in the needle quickly, then it falls out. I sourced, slide, needles and clips from Burlen!

What am I missing? :(:rolleyes:
 
Well it’s a mystery to me!

I think I got my first mk2 equipped bike in 1994, can’t recall how many mk2s I’ve had in the intervening 25 years, but the first I’ve heard of this problem is this thread!

I’m not disputing anyone’s findings, just stating that I don’t understand.

Could it be old worn out parts?

Or could it be the opposite; new poorly made parts??
 
storm42 said:
That is what I run on my bike 34mm bored to 36mm, when I told the dyno guy I had brought some proper 36mm carbs to try against the 34/36s he said they used to bore the 34s in preference to using proper 36s, he reckoned they flowed better.

I would lock-wire the circlip.
Click to expand...
Not sure how you could lockwire the circlip without the wire raising the needle? Glue sounds OK once you are sure you have the right setting, maybe Araldite/JB weld!
 
Fast Eddie said:
Well it’s a mystery to me!

I think I got my first mk2 equipped bike in 1994, can’t recall how many mk2s I’ve had in the intervening 25 years, but the first I’ve heard of this problem is this thread!

I’m not disputing anyone’s findings, just stating that I don’t understand.

Could it be old worn out parts?

Or could it be the opposite; new poorly made parts??
Click to expand...

I suspect it is new poorly made parts that rapidly become worn out parts! The clip has definitely worn the groove in the clip.

On the slide, there is a raised ridge that holds the washer away from gripping the clip, this could be the real source of the problem.
 
SteveA said:
Not sure how you could lockwire the circlip without the wire raising the needle? Glue sounds OK once you are sure you have the right setting, maybe Araldite/JB weld!
Click to expand...

That would make fitting new throttle cables fun wouldn’t it?!
 
When I fitted MkIIs in '74 it was to replace 36mm Mk1 Concentrics.....everyone was telling me they were too big and it would work better with 34mms! After all they said, Thruxton used bored out 32s (see Ken's 33mms) Took me 2 race meetings to decide to bore them to 36mm, at which point I felt they were better than the Mk1s, but really their biggest edge over the Mk1s was the start valve! Which with bump starting from cold was very handy....

Then I met Tony Smith, who was using 36mm MkIIs with huge bellmouths...a la Cosworth Norton!...and 30mm ports.....
 
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Fast Eddie said:
That would make fitting new throttle cables fun wouldn’t it?!
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No, I mean glue the clip to the needle, and let the glue set before fitting into the slide! Maybe even glue the thin washer I am talking about to the clip as well.....

But with some cash in my pocket it will be a 38mm Mikuni before too long!
 
How about a blob of solder on clip / needle?

I’m thinking there’s not a lot of surface area for glue.
 
Hi Steve
I put the washer over & a blob of bath sealant.
Used to happen on MK1s where the spring picked up the clip & lifted it up needle & all.
Not had it with the MK2.
This is the one obvious area the smoothbore is better.
Chris
 
Chris said:
Hi Steve
I put the washer over & a blob of bath sealant.
Used to happen on MK1s where the spring picked up the clip & lifted it up needle & all.
Not had it with the MK2.
This is the one obvious area the smoothbore is better.
Chris
Click to expand...
When Bruno said 'glue' I didn't ask 'what glue'......bath sealer may be 'glue'

I have never actually seen a smoothbore!
 
AMAL MK2 Carbs Availability?
SteveA said:
When Bruno said 'glue' I didn't ask 'what glue'......bath sealer may be 'glue'

I have never actually seen a smoothbore!
Click to expand...

Steve, could you find out what glue Bruno would recommend? As luck would have it I bought some new needles and jets at the weekend and I am just fitting them, check out the picture of the needles that have come out of the carbs.

Now I have had a look at the clips, I agree that lockwire isn’t practical but worse, the clips are a good fit so it isn’t about taking up slack clips it is more about stopping them from vibrating about and rubbing the softer brass needle away.
 
I’m still curious as to weather a blob of solder would do the trick.

They’re small parts, a half decent soldering iron should be good enough I’d have thought.

Depends what both parts are made from, anyone know for sure?
 
I would guess the clips are spring steel and the needles brass, I suppose solder would be better than glue in the long run once the carbs are set up properly.
 
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