Amal Ezy Drain

https://photos.smugmug.com/One-cable/i- ... 0003-S.jpg
With only poor quality ethanol fuel here, my carbs on some of my bikes gum up if not ridden all the time or carbs not drained.
I made these Amal Ezy drains, brass then nickle plated , With bike running, rag under carbs,fuel off and one turn open on the drains
no tools needed. just makes it a bit easier draining the carbs (without tools). At least I'm good to go next ride.

Quite a neat idea. I turn the fuel off as I approach home with the aim of arriving with no fuel left in the carbs. Work's for me.

Ian

Yes, I think running the bike out of fuel is a good idea as there is a tendency to get the fuel sucked out.

I always run it out of gas just before touchdown. However, draining gets rid of any water
or debris. The new green gaskets on the bowel drains seem to have a very short life despite
sealing well. The old red ones lasted forever.

I always run it out of gas just before touchdown. However, draining gets rid of any water
or debris. The new green gaskets on the bowel drains seem to have a very short life despite
sealing well. The old red ones lasted forever.

Neat idea.
Fortunately, I do not need such drain plugs, as we have ethanol-free (E0) fuel where I live.
Come the day when E0 is unobtainable, I'll go for something like this.

bucksfizz, certainly not needed for everyone. but for me I'm stuck with sugarcane in my carbs,
Don

From my experience, running the gas out will not drain the bowls enough to free the main jet. The bottom of the jet remains wet and will gum up if left for long.
Draining the bowls at the bottom is much better. Madass's screw just makes it easier.

Jaydee

unless you have good petcocks, they could dribble through when closed, I remove the fuel lines, cap the petcocks and use low pressure compressed air on the lines to blow out the fuel in the carbs.

"unless you have good petcocks, they could dribble through when closed, I remove the fuel lines, cap the petcocks and use low pressure compressed air on the lines to blow out the fuel in the carbs."

Geez Jimbo, how often do you go thru this procedure?
If you have a bad oil pump your crank could fill up with oil...

madass140 said:

"unless you have good petcocks, they could dribble through when closed, I remove the fuel lines, cap the petcocks and use low pressure compressed air on the lines to blow out the fuel in the carbs."

Geez Jimbo, how often do you go thru this procedure?
If you have a bad oil pump your crank could fill up with oil...

Click to expand...

not very often, maybe for the winter?

well Jimbo, where I live with crap ethanol fuel you would be doing that more than once a year. I think you missed the point of my original post
please read it again.

madass140 said:

well Jimbo, where I live with crap ethanol fuel you would be doing that more than once a year. I think you missed the point of my original post
please read it again.

Click to expand...

Yes, good job on the drains

It's a really good idea madass but I think I'd feel better with something that doesn't look like they could vibrate loose as I was ridding. Maybe something like a small tapered pipe thread plug.

I was thinking maybe something like a Fumoto oil drain valve would be good in this application, but possibly a bit too expensive.
sam

I usually forget to turn off the gas when I'm a block from the barn, then I get there and think "shit, I forgot again."

If I do idle the Norton down, whatever fuel remains is never a problem. With my '86 GSXR, however, a constant problem, four tiny idle jets AND a total PITA to pull stock airbox rubbers and remove that rack of carbs.

xbacksideslider said:

I usually forget to turn off the gas when I'm a block from the barn, then I get there and think "shit, I forgot again."

If I do idle the Norton down, whatever fuel remains is never a problem. With my '86 GSXR, however, a constant problem, four tiny idle jets AND a total PITA to pull stock airbox rubbers and remove that rack of carbs.

Click to expand...

use stable

I like the idea of turning the valve off and having it run out before I put the bike away but as stated I'm not positive this gets all of the gas out of the float bowls and this might be a stupid question but is it bad even for a little bit like that to run the bike that lean ? I guess it's only for a few seconds and not under power so I would assume it's not gonna do any damage. I like the valve idea madass but the screw does seem simple and elegant.

I've got 8 bikes and a bunch of two-stroke lawn and forest equipment, and I got sick and tired of cleaning pilot jets, and cleaning carbs, and scraping rust out of my tanks, and replacing primer bulbs on the weedeaters, and replacing fuel lines, and all the other crap you have to do now that we're pouring sugar products into our tanks.

I bought a new 55 gallon drum and a rotary pump and put it just inside my garage. I keep it full of 90 octane non-ethanol fuel treated with Marine Sta-Bil. (When 87 octane ethanol fuel is $1.99/gal, the 90 octane is $2.89 + $0.15/gal for the Sta-Bil).

Whenever I roll a bike into the shop, I fill it up from that tank and leave it running until it's mixed in. When I'm coming in from a day trip or a long journey, I make sure that my tank is as close to empty as I can get, or at worst, less than half full, and fill it up with the stabilized gas.

I use this fuel to mix my two-stroke oil/gas mixture. In the cars and tractors that are used all year round, I don't use this more expensive mix, I just use regular 87 octane ethanol. But before I park my garden tiller and lawnmowers for the winter, the last tank of fuel that goes into them is the stabilized mix.

The Sta-Bil assures that no rust forms in the tank, even if the tank isn't full - the vapor alone prevents rust.

So far it seems to be working!

Lannis

This looks interesting

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Float-...730878?hash=item440622f6fe:g:kdMAAOSw3h1ZTL-M