adjusting 2nd gearbox adjuster ?

So, I have added a second gearbox adjuster and now I'm wondering how to adjust it. Is it just more of a fixed point for the other end of the top mounting bolt ? Or is there something subtle and esoteric that I should know ?

Thanks

Greg

'70 Commando w/Norvil belt drive

gjr said:

So, I have added a second gearbox adjuster and now I'm wondering how to adjust it. Is it just more of a fixed point for the other end of the top mounting bolt ? Or is there something subtle and esoteric that I should know ?

Thanks

Greg

'70 Commando w/Norvil belt drive

Click to expand...

Did you mount it facing forward or backward?

Why do you need to adjust is? After your initial configuration I'm told you'll rarely if ever need to adjust a belt.

Huh, aren't you working on a simple Commando, of course its esoteric
to adjust not one but two gearbox fixers.

If a chain primary just set by gosh and by golly for enough
slack when heated in use. Some like me eyeball alignment others
go to extremes to use straight edge or lasers on sprockets.

A belt now, thats a trick to get to stay on clutch especially
if it wobbles.
Only real way to know if adjusted and aligned square with
a belt is to either turn and turn and turn by hand
or start and run and diddle till belt don't walk of
clutch teeth.

hobot

swooshdave said:

Did you mount it facing forward or backward?

Why do you need to adjust is? After your initial configuration I'm told you'll rarely if ever need to adjust a belt.

Click to expand...

I mounted it forward. After drilling the hole on the backside I saw your post and changed it.

As far was why it needs to be adjusted, I've had the whole bike apart (it started as new fork seals, a crankshaft drive side seal, and a new spring for the gearbox selector ratchet...) this winter and now that it is going back together, everything needs to be readjusted.

Greg

gjr said:

swooshdave said:

Did you mount it facing forward or backward?

Why do you need to adjust is? After your initial configuration I'm told you'll rarely if ever need to adjust a belt.

Click to expand...

I mounted it forward. After drilling the hole on the backside I saw your post and changed it.

As far was why it needs to be adjusted, I've had the whole bike apart (it started as new fork seals, a crankshaft drive side seal, and a new spring for the gearbox selector ratchet...) this winter and now that it is going back together, everything needs to be readjusted.

Greg

Click to expand...

So the question is how to get the gearbox mainshaft parallel to the crankshaft? I think I read something on the forums about it.

double-sided-gearbox-adjuster-big-pics-t5470.html?hilit=parallel%20gearbox&start=15#p63614

Apparently a straight edge is the key.

Good luck on getting a straight edge to lie against the pulleys
and plan on it guiding you wrong once running loads added
to a belt drive.

I mounted Peel's dual adjuster using factory rear hole on TS
and forward hole on DS, as allowed best access to nip up.
I fiddled DS hole position with everything in place
and pondering clearance and diddling and style.
Peel was a bit more complex to fit dual adjust with a Maney
out rigger bearing support. Had to mill nuts thinner get a fit.

hobot

hobot said:

Good luck on getting a straight edge to lie against the pulleys
and plan on it guiding you wrong once running loads added
to a belt drive.

I mounted Peel's dual adjuster using factory rear hole on TS
and forward hole on DS, as allowed best access to nip up.
I fiddled DS hole position with everything in place
and pondering clearance and diddling and style.
Peel was a bit more complex to fit dual adjust with a Maney
out rigger bearing support. Had to mill nuts thinner get a fit.

hobot

Click to expand...

If you read Jim's comment he said he uses a straight edge to get it close and then from there doesn't worry about it and hasn't had a problem.

So how did you see if you had it right? Eyeball it?

I have posted on this before but the rub is to get it right before heat gets into the belt. With the clutch basket wobble it is not good to trust a reading with a straight edge that must be used. Every time you kick over the bike you will get a new reading. I have a service tool made for this job it is quite simple and a one time need (so a good tool to share with a local club). Find an old style riveted clutch basket no good for running a bike but a good tool. Now machine an insert just the same as the bearing in steel and press it in. Now face grind the outer ring of the basket dead square to the new I.D. Now a straight edge off this surface can be used to get you perfectly square to the crank sprocket. Lock it down and recheck be sure you have all the transmission bolts very tight too before the re-check. Once they are just right I paint mark the jam nuts so if any tweaking is needed you can get it right back. Do note that the faces of the transmission casting can pull the box right back out of square if they have been run that way in the past when you tighten the transmission bolts. Bikes with chains like this done to them very much as well but you have to do it using a belt.

Yep like Greg Norbsa says, get as nick pick fancy anal as ya like
but in the end its by trial and error to fine tune adjusters.
I only mark using a knife edge both sides of cradle and top of
gear box boss, After I've run on road tests and happy with
both alignment and hot temperature belt tension.
Once set for a belt, gear box could be welded in place
as far as belt changing to replace or service primary.

Belts have specifically engineered tension set by center distance
of pulleys, pulley size and belt tooth count. Next Peel
will go by this chart and then see if acceptable logic or not in
a Norton application.

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