A question about routine clutch maintenance

Yellow_Cad · Jun 25, 2009

I have a 73 850 with bronze plates. Would it be a feasible routine clutch maintenance procedure, when taking off the outer cover to drain, clean, and replace lube (F-ATF) for the primary, to spray into the clutch basket (edges of the plates), while exposed, with Brakekleen or carb cleaner to remove any oil that may be starting to build up? Don't know if this could harm anything or just not be of any benefit.

L.A.B. · Jun 25, 2009

The clutch is permanently "wet" with oil, so I doubt spraying brake cleaner into the assembled clutch is going to do much, or at least not for very long?

It would be better (in my opinion) to remove the plates occasionally (don't attempt it without the spring compressor) and then clean off any build-up of Black residue from the bronze plates.

After switching from ATF back to the factory recommended engine oil in my MkIII's primary, I noticed there was practically no build-up of residue on the bronze plates the next time I inspected them.

Yellow_Cad · Jun 25, 2009

ATF back to oil? What about all the posts that have touted the superiority of ATF over oil and not just ATF but F type ATF? What brand and weight of engine oil do you use Les and what quanity in the primary case?

L.A.B. · Jun 25, 2009

The factory's primary chaincase recommendation was for 20W/50 engine oil, although I have been using 10W/40 in there, topped up to the oil level screw, which appears to be around the specified amount of 200cc. I may also try some 20W/50 and see if that alters anything? The reason I went back to using engine oil was that I'd heard the MkIII's hydraulic primary chain tensoner worked better with the engine oil, which I found to be true, and the primary drive seemed to run quieter too.

79x100 · Jun 25, 2009

I'd second the advice to remove the plates and give them a clean every now and then. I probably do mine about every 10,000 miles or so. My preferred technique is a scotch-brite pad and solvent.

I've got into the habit of using left-over dregs of fork oil in my Mk111 on the basis that if it works in hydraulic dampers, it should work in a hydraulic tensioner. No adverse effects noted so far but usual disclaimers because I've never seen it recommended anywhere else. It can't really fail to cool and lubricate the chain and I always seem to be left with odd amounts in the bottles.

BillT · Jun 25, 2009

I agree with LAB on Motor oil for the MkIII case because of the primary chain tensioner.

I prefer F-ATF in my 850 MkI primary for three reasons:

It's easier to tell the source of any leak (oil - engine, ATF - primary, Gear oil - tranny)
Clutch operation is very smooth
My local Norton guru recommended it

I haven't had my clutch apart since I replaced my crank seal about 5000 miles (6 months) ago. I haven't had to adjust my clutch either. I figure if it starts grabbing/slipping or needs and adjustment, I'll dissemble and clean at that time.

splatt · Jun 25, 2009

79x100 said:
I'd second the advice to remove the plates and give them a clean every now and then. I probably do mine about every 10,000 miles or so. My preferred technique is a scotch-brite pad and solvent.

I've got into the habit of using left-over dregs of fork oil in my Mk111 on the basis that if it works in hydraulic dampers, it should work in a hydraulic tensioner. No adverse effects noted so far but usual disclaimers because I've never seen it recommended anywhere else. It can't really fail to cool and lubricate the chain and I always seem to be left with odd amounts in the bottles.

Fork oil is designed to keep forks moving freely and not sticking, and as such isn't really suitable in clutches

A question about routine clutch maintenance

Yellow_Cad

L.A.B.

Moderator

Yellow_Cad

L.A.B.

Moderator

79x100

BillT

splatt

Similar threads