69 "S" Phoenix rises again

Status
Not open for further replies.
Harness installed in center grommet, all the bad twisted connections soldered and shrink tubing applied. Bad and loose lugs repaired. I need one spade lug for the foot brake switch, then everything should be sorted and ready to plug up. I'm sticking with the zener, selenium rectumfrier, and the capacitor until I discover something doesn't work, then comes the Podtronics or whatever. New Sparx may be in the lineup at some point too.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Discovered that the 'S' model front fender is special to that model. No others like it. The stays are 12 1/2" long and the fender is a smaller radius. I think to keep the fender from hitting the 'S' pipes under hard braking. Nelson discovered this and told me. So mine is apart and am going to chrome it and the stays. Bridge is out for powder coat like the fork trees in a 'Chrome' color. Good thing I got the 300-19 front tyre, I don't think a 410 would fit under the fender. I'm still looking for a rear fender, 'S' or not, but chrome.

I'm going to drill out the grommet for the alternator wires. Way too tight even with lots of heat. Then I'll seal it with the bad stuff, RTV.

Waiting for parts from RGM again.

Dave
69S
 
Dave,

Great to see it all coming together.

Although I enjoy riding my 850 -a lot! - I actually got a bigger kick out of building it.
Does this make me strange? :oops:

The alternator grommet on mine had gone hard - it was brittle enough to break in two when removing, thereby solving the problem instantly! A new one was very cheap, and easy to install.
 
DogT
I'm at the stage of getting my fork yokes (triple trees??!) ready for painting. I notice from one of your early photos that you managed to remove the long stud on the lower yoke which seems to act as a pinch bolt for the fork stanchions and also as a mounting point for the headlamp ring. I tried to get mine out and tried force and heat, but it wouldn't shift. I gave up as I was worried about breaking it and also that I wouldn't be able to find a replacement - these studs seem to be specific to the "S" and early Roadster. Have currently left it in and it will have to be painted like that - which is not ideal.

Can you reveal any secrets about how you got yours out? And which way did it unscrew - from the front or back? Cheers!
 
Those are actually studs. A 1/4-28 nut will fit on the front part that holds the ring on. Put 2 nuts on that side, tighten them together and try to back it out the rear. I suppose you could do the same on the other end, but that is a 7/16-20 and 2 jam nuts might work because of the small thread area. It comes out the rear and is threaded in the fork only with the 1/4-28 small part. I have a friend and he has not been able to get his out either. Luckily mine just came right out. Lots of penetrating oil and soaking may help. I think the US Fair Spares has them but they are about 20USD. OOPS, I,m wrong about the thread in the fork, the front end with the 7/16-20 threads into the front part of the fork.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
 
Dave the 1/4 nut is a special stepped nut with a plastic cap i have mine if you need photos, is there a spacer mounts behind that nut? my bike came to me in pieces.
Al
 
Al,
Yes, here's how it works. Thread the stud into the fork tree from the rear with the 1/4" stud first. You should be able to get it in almost tight with your fingers if you clean up the threads. Then you can lock it in place with a 1/4" nut and then put on the 7/16 nut on the rear and tighten the fork. Then put a 1/4" washer on the 1/4" side and then the headlamp ring, then another washer and then that special nut with the white bumper on it. Tighten down the special nut and put the bumper on. Mine didn't have a flat or lock on the 7/16" side.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Al,
Yes, here's how it works. Thread the stud into the fork tree from the rear with the 1/4" stud first. You should be able to get it in almost tight with your fingers if you clean up the threads. Then you can lock it in place with a 1/4" nut and then put on the 7/16 nut on the rear and tighten the fork. Then put a 1/4" washer on the 1/4" side and then the headlamp ring, then another washer and then that special nut with the white bumper on it. Tighten down the special nut and put the bumper on. Mine didn't have a flat or lock on the 7/16" side.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
Click to expand...

That is quite the engineering feat. Does it do more than hold the ring on?
 
Dave,
Yes, it tightens the lower fork brace on the stnachions so they don't fall out.

Dave
69s
 
Dave
Any chance of posting the measurements of the spacers that goes between the headlight ring and headlight p/n 06.1234, it apears that i am missing them.
Al
 
Sure. 0.565 thick and 0.805 dia. Of course the hole is clearance for a 5/16 bolt. Original bolt was 5/16-26 CEI, emgo are 5/16-24. Do you have the bolt, it has a rounded head if you are going for originality? Kind of like the one on the shift lever.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
 
Thanks Dave.
As i think i have stated previously stated this bike came to me in pieces and about 80% complete, the previous owner apparently disasembled it. I had ientified all the major bits i was short of but as i assemble it these little things pop up. I have the headlight, ring etc so i thought these bits were there, goin to searcch the garage again today.
Thanks Al
 
More progress, head is back from Leo, nice. New Black Dia. valves, springs, mushroom adjusters, guides, insulator and seals, reground surface. Also got 25' Nylon 11oil line and #4 SS self tapping screws from McMaster for the front brake gauze, plated the gauze and polished the front brake assembly, so front wheel is ready for final assembly and assembly of the oil lines. Timing cover tool ready for use, need to tighten up all the nuts and bolts in the timing case and primary case. I'm thinking about blocking a piece of wood in the primary chain to tighten everything up all at once.

Wiring loom is all fixed up and in place for installation.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


I wish I had a picture of the head before. Leo did a nice job. It's probably better than new.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
More progress, head is back from Leo, nice. New Black Dia. valves, springs, mushroom adjusters, guides, insulator and seals, reground surface. Also got 25' Nylon 11oil line and #4 SS self tapping screws from McMaster for the front brake gauze, plated the gauze and polished the front brake assembly, so front wheel is ready for final assembly and assembly of the oil lines. Timing cover tool ready for use, need to tighten up all the nuts and bolts in the timing case and primary case. I'm thinking about blocking a piece of wood in the primary chain to tighten everything up all at once.

Wiring loom is all fixed up and in place for installation.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


I wish I had a picture of the head before. Leo did a nice job. It's probably better than new.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

head looks great dave - what was the $ and the turn around from Leo if i may ask?
thx
mike
 
Mike,
Sure, $471 labor, $216 parts and $35 shipping, plus the $30 to ship it to him, so total was right around $750. Took about 4-5 weeks. I think he had a week or so off for some hip problems. I could recommend him. They test the springs, vacuum tested valve seating, media blasting and ultrasonic cleaning.

Here is what the bike looked like before I ripped the head off.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
 
hi, was wondering if that oil tank/ batt tray is normal for a 69/70 or aftermarket. i got a 73 750 with an early frame, drum sprocket rear and the same oil tank stuff. was thinkin of changing over as i thought it should have the triangular oil tank. not so sure now.
 
flibity

Here is a link to some pictures of my 69/70 'S' oil tank/battery tray. Get in touch with possm, he is in your neck of the woods and has an 'S' model. The R and fastback had the pannier type oil tank on the side and the battery tray must have been different, maybe like the '68, I don't know. I am pretty sure the oil tank perpendicular in the frame was only the 69/70 S and Roadster, it changed late in 70 and into 71.

1970-roadster-references-and-detail-pictures-t5389.html#p50032

Dave
69S
 
flibety
What year is your frame? the 69-70 frames are noticeably different, i.e. centre stand mounts direct to the frame not the gearbox cradle also side stand mounts to a plate attached virticuly to the left haand bottom frame rail, also the fork yokes are different, the oiltank you discribe was first used for the 1971 model year.
Al
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top