69 "S" Phoenix rises again

Got the frame from the powder coaters today. Real nice "Liquid Black". However they did the trees in black too, so they are back to get the "Liquid Chrome" treatment. Removed the nuts/bolts/washers from the frame etc. and am ready for assembly as I find things. Pressed the reamed bushings in the swingarm and fitted the new SS swingarm shaft in for a test fit and it feels real nice. Gearbox is ready, so the bottom end can go in with the cradle and the gearbox. Am thinking about rebuilding it on the centerstand with the front end and wheel assembled to keep it balanced, with maybe putting it on a box to raise it off the ground a bit to help my aging back.

Still have a few things to finish, chrome the mudguards, need shocks, and bits here and there. Here is my test fit of the swingarm to the cradle.



Dave
69S

Excellent Dave! Keep us posted. When I figure out this camera thing, :? I'll send some picts of mine. Good Luck.

Tom

Dave, definitely take lots of pictures - I would like to see how your project goes back together. I'm in the process of breaking my '73 frame down to the component parts for power coating and should be reassmbling it within the next few weeks. A couple of questions:

What stripping process did you use to get the frame to bare metal prior to doing the thread/mounting hole blanking?

Did you put together your own selection of blanking parts (i.e. bolts, washers, etc.) or did you spring for the Old Britts kit?

After the frame is re-assembled, what are you going to do about the wiring harness? Reuse the old one, make a new one, or perhaps buy a new one?

wow, hella nice powder job!

Tim,

Yes, I'll make lots of pics. I just need to figure out the process.

Stripping was done by the powder coater. I think they bead blasted everything, it was covered in spray enamel over zinc chromate that I put on back in the 70's. I'm going to take my barrels over to have them blast them when I get some paint ready for them.

Masking was done at the P/C shop. They had all sizes of circle masks, and Shelly that was doing it helped with cutting out pieces to mask. They were very helpful and let me in the shop to help, it was part of the deal. I looked at the OB masking nuts/bolts and thought it was rather expensive so I bought my own nuts/bolts/washers (UNC) at the local hardware store for a lot less. But then found when I went in to put it on, the P/C shop had all these different size circles to put on plus they didn't like the nuts/bolts/washers especially if there was any grease or stuff on it because it messes up the paint in the oven. I just wish I had made a list of every hole I wanted to mask and what size it needed to be on both sides and then used all their circle masks. I did a lot of guessing during the masking and am going to have to do some removing. They also dipped it in some phosphate solution after blasting to prevent rust under the P/C.

My original wiring harness is in not bad shape, so I am going to re-use it with some new ends and possibly covering it with shrink tubing where I can or the spiral plastic wrap to neaten it up a bit but trying to keep some originality to it.

I was very happy with the results, and the price was about 1/2 or less the NOVA (Manassas) prices, it was a shop that does DOD and commercial coatings in Front Royal, VA (Creative Coatings) but they do M/C stuff on the side.

I was back and forth on the paint vs. powdercoat, but I think I made the right decision. The frame looks real nice and is a very hard finish.



Dave
69S

Very nice, I really miss when I was at this stage. Have fun and take your time and wrap the tubes with something to protect that nice finish.

Dave,

The frame paint job looks really good. Thanks for the info about the masking, I'll be sure to ask the candidate paint shops how they handle that detail. Be sure to post some snaps of the tress when you get them back. I'd really like to see how those turn out.

Looks really nice - lovely job!

Rear shoe plate and drum ready for final assembly.





Dave
69S

Got the tree parts back today in "Chorme" powder coat.

Norvil is shipping the bottom end rebuild kit and pistons today.



Dave
69S

looks great !

Actually got something put together today, finally. New sealed bearings too.



Dave
69S

Dave,
Excellent. I went to the gathering of the Nortons at Washington's Crossing Park yesterday. Not a S to be found. So, maybe it's something to aim for next year. I did ,however, show up on a Brit; My '71 TR6R loved the brisk air alot more than I did. I'm sure that in a few weeks picts will be surfacing from the event.

Dave, best of wishes on your assembly and again, thanks for your help.

Tom

Got the crank cases blasted and cleaned, ready to assemble the bottom end, just need the shims for the crank side play. Was not what I expected, but then I didn't know what to expect. At least they are clean and all one colour. The barrel is getting done now too, going to do it in original silver. I guess I need to take the inner primary cover in to get cleaned too.



Dave
69S

More things together. The original rotary timed valve was cracked so I had to get a new one. Cases went together fine, ended up with 0.006" crank end play using OB's shims under the timing side bearing. Used Hylomar flange sealant per Hobot's recommendation. Gearbox went in easy, bottom end went in fine until the front iso mount and it was a hassle getting it lined up to get the 1/2" bolt in, but I got it. Tomorrow the barrels. Still need to send the top end to Leo.





Dave
69S

Delicious progress DogT.
If I knew the time- expense to go through and fully fetter a Commando
I may not have started the first one.
Not sure if Hylomar Flange Seal is same think a Hi Temp Racer Blue
Hylomare, but should work a treat as advertised. Let me know.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ealant.htm

Nice texture on the case blast, not proper but I like it,
unless a bugger to un dust and grimp.

I had a .003" gap behind barrel after case welding and beating.
Found the Yam-Kiwi-Hond-Grey bond stuff would fracture
cracks and weep, even with a thread embedded.
Blue Hylomar hung in there and easy to remove for next parting.
The others stuff grey thick goop included make good glues
and strain/stress getting case seam opened.

Hope its like mother's go though, forgetting the pain on
first cries of health new child.

hobot

I think I got the right stuff. It feels very strange after it sets.



Yes, those cases were sand blasted and looked like a piece of plastic or ceramic. However I took a small stainless wire brush to them and they polished up so that flat looking appearance is not there, looks more like the original with a bit of sheen to them. I also took WD40 and the same stainless brush to the inner primary cover and it turned out real nice.



I probably could have saved the $50 having the cases blasted and polished them with the wire brush too.

Dave
69S

Dave, I have found newly blasted cases oxidise rather quickly if left untreated, however a liberal spray of WD 40 seems to get into the 'open pores' and keep things looking good.

Dave

Hi DogT
Looks Good. Let me know how the paint holds up. I had mine done in Powder coat also but the paint flaked off if you just dropped a nut on it :x
So I complained to the guys who did it. They said that they had problems with the primer and a couple of other bikes had the same effect. They told me they would redo the job but it was just a PITA to take everything apart again. Doing the job twice is not fun.
Anyway... looking at your transmission bolt at the top… its hard to see but did you place the spacer on the inboard L/H side of the engine transmission cradle?? Make sure it goes in or your chain will grind a good groove into your inner primary case...you know, so you don't have to do the job twice. :mrgreen:
Keep the pic rolling.... good stuff so far.
CNN

Wow Dave, it looks like you are spending big $$ in just blasting services. I got tired of spending money to have someone else blast and powdercoat my parts so I invested in a pressure blaster (for frames), BIG air compressor, and a blast cabinet. I have a large (well, large enough to do bike stuff) blast cabinet that I use walnut shell media in when I blast my aluminum parts. The walnut shells do not attack the base metal like glass bead which leaves a very rough and porous texture. Glass bead works very well for rusted steel but I no longer use it on my heads, cases, or anything else aluminum. After the aluminum parts are blasted with the walnut shells they look factory new. An added bonus is the biodegradability of the walnuts vs. glass beads in your oil galleries, etc.

I get back in the middle of next month so if you (or anyone for that matter) needs some parts blasted, just give me a shout. Consider it a free service to all AccessNorton.com members! Shipping would be the only thing though...might get expensive for the bigger parts to ship to Kansas.
Powdercoating is available as well but in limited colors. I can do a frame no problem but there might be a small fee for blasting the frame and powdercoating as it is pretty labor intensive to get all the nooks and crannies blasted on a frame. This is also dependant on the condition of the frame.
I am not campaigning here as I am DEFINATELY not looking to make money doing this stuff (I am more of a "horsetrader" than money maker).....just offering if you guys are wanting parts blasted and/or powdercoated.

Dave, I will tell you that Powdercoating is better than paint in almost all applications. Unless you are doing a concourse 100 point restoration....then you have to find someone who still does stove enamelling. :mrgreen:

Keep the pics coming, your 'S' is looking great.