69 "S" Phoenix rises again

It finally happened to me. The RS exhaust nut got loose on the way home today from a 50 mile ride. But it was my fault. When I put it back on this winter, didn't use a new copper gasket, and I couldn't get the 3' extension on the nut to torque it down because the fuel tank was in the way. I figured it would happen and it did. I managed to stop along the way home and at least tighten it down enough to get home without any further loosening, but now I know to tighten it properly. It sounded like there was an exhaust leak when I left.

I hate driving on weekends, I must have run into at least 3 groups of weekend warriors of maybe 20-30 bikes. Not sure I like that. But it was the last good weather day for the rest of the week.

Other than the exhaust nut, no problems. More confidence.

Anyone know of a good exhaust wrench for the norvil type nuts? Mine is pretty funky.





Dave
69S

DogT said:

Anyone know of a good exhaust wrench for the norvil type nuts? Mine is pretty funky.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

I made this up with some spare stock and roll pins strategically placed. Double sided,

Dave,
I bought my spanner from Phil at Fair Spares.Its A nice one,just not sure it will fit the Norvil nuts.
YING

Dave,
I am also in the process of installing a ball valve in the oil feed line.I am curious as you have one with a switch to the
ignition.The one I bought yesterday is listed as a 3/8 but the passage diameter inside is maybe a 1/4 inch.I dont want
to restrict the flow and am wondering what valve you are using.Jim Comstock has a valve on one of his spare bikes
that he just hangs his ignition key on when not in use.Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,Mike

Mike,
One of the forum members sent me the valve. It's a pex 1/2" ball valve, so it has barb fittings on both ends and will fit in the 3/8" line fine, probably the 7/16" too if you're using that.

post66314.html

I'm pretty sure he got it at Aubuchon. I've seen the 3/8" valves and I wouldn't put it on, it looks too small.

I'd rather have a proper switch, so am thinking about rigging up a micro-switch off a spring onto the valve handle. I've been looking at the universal brake light switches too, but they look pretty bulky.

Those roll pins on the made up wrench I don't think would stand up to the 3' extension I usually use to torque down my exhaust nuts. Mine works fine, it's just that only having 3 places to hook it on, limits me and sometimes the tank is in the way of my extension.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Those roll pins on the made up wrench I don't think would stand up to the 3' extension I usually use to torque down my exhaust nuts. Mine works fine, it's just that only having 3 places to hook it on, limits me and sometimes the tank is in the way of my extension.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

3' extension, really. Ya know, that's the hole idea with the bronze exhaust nuts. You just need to bring them home, not force them all the way to the happy hunting ground. Give them another snug or 2 during heat cycles and ride off into the sunset. The homemade wrench sits up flush with all three pins working together effecting torque. It does a good job and protects the nut from abuse like a 3' extension would produce.


P.S. A 1" pipe slips nicely over the end.

A 3' 1" pipe? Yeah, it's not like I put 80 yard tons on it, but with a nice long extension you can feel how that big nolt is nipping up and not beating on it with a hammer. It's just what I had laying about.



Dave
69S

I get a chuckle at the assumptions made on these Nortons, consider that the longest sellers and builders have a page on how to Beat The buggers on tight as can be, knowing that the shock of hammer strike is like impact wrench to cause surfaces to slip with the vibe wave, instead of more galling method pure torque breaker bar method that can come loose later, after some beating up of the Al threads. On the other hand let us know how well those long wimpy pins hold up to remove a properly tightened exht ring bolt. I don't attempt that w/o a few min. torch.

This is the "Gentlemans" wrench. No Appalachian engineering here.

Quote:
"It is the only implement I will use on my nuts."

Sir Torque A. Lot

Does that CNW job fit on the Norvil nolts?

Couple of new things. Since I drained the oil yesterday, I put on the valve to keep from wet sumping. Still need to come up with a switch, but I have a couple of ideas. I'm not sure I like all the hose clamps (jubliee clips) but I was getting a weep from the feed line out of the tank. I took the barbs off and am using 3/8" line. That red handle may have to go too. I cut off about 3" from the tube going into the timing cover and now I can pull that hose off with the valve on. That will make it much easier to drain the oil tank. I used to take the block off and that was pretty messy, but better than removing the feed banjo with the tank full of oil.



Despite hobot, I poured some gas in the oil tank and took a shotgun mop and swished it around, sucked it out with the turkey baster, did that twice and it looked real clean, but lookie what I found. Another good use for the roach clip. The shotgun mop is real good to dust and clean in areas you just can't get a rag.



Count your screws.

I also let off the pre-load on the head steady a week or so ago and it seems smoother. I'm still wanting to make the heim joint head steady and install the spring somehow.

Back to the exhaust nolt. I'm wondering if it would be better to shock it on with a punch and hammer? I've done that several times to get it off and on when I had the bike in the shop and there's no room for that long extension. Mind you, I'm not hauling down on those nolts, but with that long handle and some help, you can feel the thing tightening up and it's pretty clear when to quit.

Dave
69S

Thanks, ludwig, I'll try it. I'd use a lots shorter one, but that's what I have and I use it on the tractor some, so it comes in handy.

Dave
69S

I use the one Fred Eaton makes Never had an exhaust nut come loose yet

Phil

Finally got the oil back in the tank and started it up with the new ball valve and first time filter change. Boy it takes a long time for the oil to start spurting back in the tank, I suppose it's all that new hose and the filter. It used to come up right away. Had me worried for a bit.

Still can't get the carbies right. It is so close to idling great, but then all of a sudden it takes a dip and dies. I may have to play with the floats again, but it seems to run great at 1 1/2 turn out on the pilot screw. I tried screwing them in to make it a bit rich like some say to take care of the dip, but it just didn't seem to do much. It will idle great for quite a while and then all of a sudden, it just decides to take a dive when I give it a bit of slow throttle.

Much improved from before though, when it was blip, blip, blip.

I may have to try the other Pazon with the idle timing, but am trying not to spend the bucks. The other half decided she had to paint the house inside last week. Stuff is still piled in the center of the rooms and dust everywhere, plus they scratched up the black walnut floors in places. Not happy about that.

Dave
69S

What's a "nolt?"

try this and forget about it:



CNW part #1601 (under parts, engine.)

Nolt is a Nut/bOLT.

I just have my own troubles with the auto valves. However I will put a ignition defeat on the manual valve.

Dave
69S

For a interesting approach for a oil on valve reminder, see Jay Leno's solution.

(*skip to the 4:30 mark in the video.)

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/at-the-ga ... special-1/

I saw that Leno thing a long time ago, but not sure what switch he's using. I wonder how much longer I can kick it over. But it seems to get easier with more starting, even with the SAE50. I must have started it 5 times today in my tennies. But the first few times were hard (read no start) because I forgot to tickle. After that, right on.

I have to say though, the tennies are about worn out from starting and also the boots I wear, right on the inside instep. That starter is a brute. I love it.

Dave
69S

An update to this summer's work. Installed ball valve in oil feed line. Still working on the auto cut off switch so I can't leave it closed.

Installed my aluminum version of the Taglieri head steady, along with the MK3 spring. That's in the Keith1069 thread.

Also padded fuel tank (Zori) so it doesn't rattle on the frame and fixed the broken tank wing, I think I've got the tank mounted better now so it doesn't stress the wings. Added a 3/16" aluminum brace bolted under the wings, and changed the way the nuts mount on the front tank studs. Got rid of the hateful nylocs and the stupid rubber washers and put a standard nut under a SAE washer and then the reflector bracket and another standard nut under that, so it only takes me a few minutes now to get the front of the fuel tank off instead of wrestling with the nylocs. Plus the reflector mounts don't tend to rotate with vibration.

After 3 weeks of horrible summer cold/cough, I felt good enough to start the beast this evening and I can only say it feels better, at least running in the garage. No sign of the head steady beating on anything. I opened up the front iso mounts to .025 as suggested in the 68 workshop manual, and I have to say the low end vibration is just about gone. The spring may be helping. Only a road test will do, so hopefully tomorrow I won't feel like crap and be able to get out on the road with it and see if the vibration is better or not.

It actually took me 3 kicks to start but I'm sure that was because after I tickled the carbs I realized I didn't have the key and had to go get it. When it starts, it starts. Now I have to clean off the nickel anti-seize from the exhaust rings which is dripping down on the headers. But that will get sorted.

Another report tomorrow if all goes well. I'm thinking it's going to be better on the road, it's been a while.

Dave
69S

ludwig said:

You don't need a 3 foot extention to tighten the exhaust nuts .
Tighten them with running engine .
Rev it to 4000 rpm while aplpying a constant pressure on the wrench .
Let the vibrations work for you .
Try it and you'll see how easy the nut turns .
It will also save your threads ..

Click to expand...

Ludwig
Very good statement. I use this same technique.
CNN

DogT said:

A 3' 1" pipe? Yeah, it's not like I put 80 yard tons on it, but with a nice long extension you can feel how that big nolt is nipping up and not beating on it with a hammer. It's just what I had laying about.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Dave
Keep that for your tractor. :shock:
Do the Ludwig instruction.
CNN