1975 Norton Commando 850 MK3 - newbie - how to start?

Hello. Have never joined a forum before but super excited to join this forum.
I have recently been gifted a 1975 Norton Commando 850 MK3.
This motorcycle has been sitting in a garage in Oakland, California since 1996 (last year of registration).
It appears this was the original owner.
It's non-functioning, rusty and generally in bad shape.
I thought it was beautiful on first sight and my OCD couldn't stop spiraling.
I don't have much experience with motorcycles, but I am very excited to learn.
I have some experience with automotive work and I am mechanically inclined so I believe I can do this, slowly.
I've read through the original owner's manual a couple times and I'm working on a task list and items I'll need.
I'm in no rush: if this takes a few years that's fine by me.
Also, I believe (famous last words) I have the resources to take this on.

My question:
Where do I start? The key doesn't even fit in the ignition (both rusty).
Should I just spend a week or two trying to remove rust and corrosion so I can see it clearly?
Buy a battery to see if anything turns on?
Replace all fluids immediately?
Any recommendations for reference books or learning sources would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much for any help.

Congrats,
Got any pictures?
That will help on where to start?

The Norton Commando Restoration Manual by Norman White is a good place to begin.

30 years is a long time to sit and if it’s corroded that badly on the outside the insides are likely all stuck too. It’s probable you will at least need new pistons and rings and an overbore.

Fortunately, there are lots of good parts sources out there. In this forum you will soon become very good friends with Greg Marsh.

Welcome to the forum and Norton ownership. There are a good number of Commando specific service/restoration videos on YouTube....Jesse's Vintage Garage has two or three Commando restoration series for example. Your bike will be positive earth, be sure to understand what that means before doing any electrical stuff or connecting a battery.

Welcome!

The workshop manuals are arranged in the order that you should refurbish the bike before attempting starting it up. Each task depends on the one that came before.

If you don't have one, but a wifi borescope ($25) to have a look inside the cylinders, timing chest, primary drive case, and crankcase, to spot excessive rust before attempting to kick on the starter, or especially to attempt to press the e-starter button. Rotating a rusty engine can VERY quickly increase your rebuild cost.

Point your screen cursor at the top line menu item "members" and it will give you a choice of "members map" CA is chock full of members, several of which will possibly be able to assist "locally"

Thanks a lot.
This is great information.
It came with the original binder, some receipts and pamphlets. I’ll review in that order.

I’m trying to figure out how to post photos.

All good reasons to buy some new tools!

dparis said:

I’m trying to figure out how to post photos.

Click to expand...

As you are not a VIP member then you must use a photo hosting website like https://postimages.org/ I see you've become a VIP member.

dparis said:

My question:
Where do I start? r learning sources would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much for any help.

Click to expand...

Find a local Norton club member in your area or a good ( if there are any) Mechanic who knows 1975 Commandos to appraise the bike for needed work. All MK3s need the engine cam wear to be checked and the Transmission inspected and that is just a start of the job.

Seems like a good time to join the VIP.
( and learn how to manage photos)
Here are a couple photos.

That'll Buff out!!!

All seriousness, you have a nice original starting point.
It will clean up better than you realize.

The Norman White book would be excellant.
I believe it has a step by step process on bringing them alive.

Basically, clean it up.
Change all fluids, pull carbs, soak, inspect, reassemble.
Service the ignition system. May still be points.
New battery, AGM/Lithium's, my preference. Wet cell's get messy.

Somewhere on there need to turn it over to make sure it's not locked up.
My guess it isn't.

There's more, good Luck.

MichaelB said:

That'll Buff out!!!

All seriousness, you have a nice original starting point.
It will clean up better than you realize.

The Norman White book would be excellant.
I believe it has a step by step process on bringing them alive.

Basically, clean it up.
Change all fluids, pull carbs, soak, inspect, reassemble.
Service the ignition system. May still be points.
New battery, AGM/Lithium's, my preference. Wet cell's get messy.

Somewhere on there need to turn it over to make sure it's not locked up.
My guess it isn't.

There's more, good Luck.

Click to expand...

Really? Maybe the photos aren't showing the full extent of the corrosion/rust.
I suppose it's not catastrophic, but definitely pervasive. It's everywhere.
The guy who towed it (Ihave to send a shout-out to Dan at Low Budget Motorcycle Towing in the Bay Area. He's an incredible wealth of knowledge. and great prices.) said i should use coke and steel wool on the chrome.
I'll look for the Norman White book.

Also have been watching The Mighty Garage videos on You Tube.
Really like his demeanor and step-by-step narration.

The gas tank has a strange film. Is this a deteriorating protective coating (see photo below)?

Carl H:
Also a great idea to look for local groups. I believe there's on in the North Bay.

Thanks much.

They did not have a clear coat applied, they followed standard 1970's auto painting techniques using standard auto paints. Thinners was cellulose and the paint was cellulose based. The metallics they used were cutting edge for the day but not applicable to your tank which is all flat colours. If you are lucky the paint layer will be thick enough for you to gently remove the dirty top layer with a cutting compound and then polish the revealed new top layer.


Note the comments on grit size needing to be finer on cellulose than modern paints, same goes for the cutting compound.

kommando said:

They did not have a clear coat applied, they followed standard 1970's auto painting techniques using standard auto paints. Thinners was cellulose and the paint was cellulose based. The metallics they used were cutting edge for the day but not applicable to your tank which is all flat colours. If you are lucky the paint layer will be thick enough for you to gently remove the dirty top layer with a cutting compound and then polish the revealed new top layer.

Cutting and polishing new cellulose paint

Hi I’m looking for a little advice again. I have finished spraying the wedge wood blue and am quite please with the result which is basic cellulose I don’t want the finish to be too glossy because I know the under lying body has filler and matting over stress cracks and don’t want it to...

forums.lotuselan.net

Note the comments on grit size needing to be finer on cellulose than modern paints, same goes for the cutting compound.

Click to expand...

Thanks Kommando.
The other side of the tank is completely flaking off. Probably not salvagable.
Also wondering about the coating inside the gas tank which appears to be deteriorating.
What is that?
Thanks

The interior coating is not original.
There are several.. Anyone's guess what it is.