1972 Roadster Rebuild

This set up is not working to loosen the L/H threaded oil pump driving worm / nut on the end of the crank, and that's a pretty hefty electric impact wrench. Should I try putting heat (MAP torch) to it next?
Bill
 

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If someone used red loctite on it you may have to use the MAP torch. I wouldn't go cherry red, just some heat, wrench repeat.
 
Got them with heat and a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a bit of a pipe extension. First time that impact wrench let me down.
 
Embarrassingly, last night I realized it's not really a good idea to start pulling the big front engine mount bolt while the stripped down bike is on the center stand with wheels still on both ends. Maybe just sitting on the bottom frame rails is a better idea.
 
Finally!! Man those came apart hard. I think the cam is in good shape, and is marked "SS". Heavy duty crud on this bike, inside and out.
Bill
Edit: I count three impact wrenches and three hammers in the first picture.
 

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Hi Pantah_Good

If your Roadster petrol tank is off the bike, could I trouble you for some measurements underneath. length, width, cut-outs tunnel gaps, etc. I would like to compare an original with the extremely variable repros from the sub-continent.

Cheers, Possum
 
Hi Possum,
Does this make sense? Tank is rough fiberglass. Dimensions in mm's, "0" datum is center of both front mounts, front edge of tunnel appears also to be at center of front mounts (but not in photo), and side to side dim's are across to mirror "edge". Did I miss anything important to you?
Bill
 

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Just dropped off the engine cases, chaincases, timing cover, contact breaker cover, and z-plates at the vapor blasters.
 
pantah_good said:
Just dropped off the engine cases, chaincases, timing cover, contact breaker cover, and z-plates at the vapor blasters.
I wish we had a local vapor blaster; they would have made a reasonable pile of money off me by now...
 
Just saw an ad in Classic Bike mag for Clean Machine Blasting.com 912-660-1150 Cali area code?
 
Latest batch of parts just back from the vapor blaster (Nor'Easter BlastWorx). Very nice and clean. And the batch of parts almost ready to go to the powder coater. Not so nice. The rear sub frame got rather pitted, I guess from all the moisture the seat foam kept soaking up.
Bill
 

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Thanks Bill

It would appear that the steel tanks differ from the fiberglass tanks, & I don't know what the tank-makers on the sub-continent are using to base their accurate reproductions on...

Possum
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the pits on that part of the frame. It's not doing anything structural, mostly holding up the rear fender. Fill and give a good coat of paint would work but I see you want to powder coat. Not sure how to deal with that. Check with your powdercoater.
 
htown16 said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the pits on that part of the frame. It's not doing anything structural, mostly holding up the rear fender. Fill and give a good coat of paint would work but I see you want to powder coat. Not sure how to deal with that. Check with your powdercoater.

Good old-fashioned lead solder body filler. the stuff they used before Bondo was invented.
 
As an aside from getting parts ready for powder coat, I rediscovered that the side stand was missing when I got the bike. Although a 1972 (#201202) the frame has the 1971 style male post for the stand to mount and pivot on, so the frame must be in a side stand overlap period. Andover Norton lists p/n 06-5490 side stand for both 1971 & 1972 models. Does that stand work on both style frame attachments?
Bill
 
The 71 style sidestand mount is an accident waiting to happen. Highly recommend you convert to the later style. Old Brits sells a kit to modify the mount. Now is the perfect time to do it as you have the frame stripped down. I have a 71 I have the kit for but I haven't stripped the bike yet.
http://www.oldbritts.com/38_200002.html
 
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