Locked Up

Tornado said:
Note that the chain slack spec in the book applies with a riders weight on the bike, ie rear suspension under normal compression. If not weighted or on the centerstand with wheel off ground, you need to increase the slack at tightest spot on chain at mid run position. Otherside when compressed, the rear brake cable can go tight and activate the brake. I dont think this is your issue but you do need to set it correctly.

If you cannot turn over engine via kickstarter with clutch pulled in, means your clutch plates are frozen together or the clutch operating lever inside the gearbox is not working correctly. Be sure the cable is correctly in line with the pass through hole in the gb casing...must be as exact as possible. Check if the operating lever at the gb end of the cable is correctly position, it can slip down and out of its pivot position and this will prevent proper lever action. All accessible from the inspection opening. If no joy, check the adjuster nut on the clutch from the primary case access port...adjust as per book...be sure to fully slacken cable at handlebar end first.
Click to expand...
@Tornado. Where are you located in Canada? Thanks for the advice.
 
DaveinCanada said:
@Tornado. Where are you located in Canada? Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...
I'm in Vancouver.

Correction to my previous comment "Otherwise when compressed, the rear brake cable can go tight and activate the brake. " ....Not sure why I wrote that...its not the drive chain being too tight that can cause brake activation...it's improper brake cable routing that can lead to activation of brake with swingarm movement. Do a search for proper cable routing for details. Having chain too tight will put loads on the gearbox/clutch bearing and primary chain as it usually leads to g/b position movement (the adjustment bolt assembly is not particularly strong).
 
Tornado said:
I'm in Vancouver.

Correction to my previous comment "Otherwise when compressed, the rear brake cable can go tight and activate the brake. " ....Not sure why I wrote that...its not the drive chain being too tight that can cause brake activation...it's improper brake cable routing that can lead to activation of brake with swingarm movement. Do a search for proper cable routing for details. Having chain too tight will put loads on the gearbox/clutch bearing and primary chain as it usually leads to g/b position movement (the adjustment bolt assembly is not particularly strong).
Click to expand...
@Tornado. The chain is now off and the wheel moves freely. But the gears still won't change and the kickstart lever is stuck. How do I adjust the g/b bolt assembly? When I pull the clutch lever, I can see the cable pulling inside gearbox and something rotating.
 
Last edited:
DaveinCanada said:
@Tornado. The chain is now off and the wheel moves freely. But the gears still won't change and the kickstart lever is stuck. How do I adjust the g/b bolt assembly? When I pull the clutch lever, I can see the cable pulling inside gearbox and something rotating.
Click to expand...

From the Workshop Manual:
Locked Up


Also clutch adjustment:
Locked Up
 
I don't see the clutch as the primary problem. If in gear the bike should move if the clutch is not pulled or the plates are stuck. If in neutral the kickstart should move no matter what the clutch is doing. Sounds like it's between gears and putting the chain back on and rocking may be the only way to get it loose without opening the gearbox.

In any case, standing on the kickstart is likely to jam it further.
 
I agree with Greg on this as all he did was to replace the chain.Myself I would put the chain back on and try rocking the rear wheel with one hand on the gear shift to see if that frees it up.
Mike
 
@DaveinCanada can I ask you some questions…

1) With the chain off, and the clutch lever pulled in, can you operate the kickstart?
2) It seems you received this bike in pieces. Have you ever ridden it?

If the answer to both is no, then I strongly advise that you open the gearbox, and see what’s happening.

If you do as others have suggested and refit the chain, and wheel it backwards, you may well temporarily remove something blocking the transmission, however, it may happen again at any time by the sounds of it, and that could be catastrophic.
 
I just re-read posts #1-#4 in this thread. There's something astray here when comparing those to later posts.

First, the rear wheel turned 3/4 turn and then locked - no matter how locked a gearbox is, a chain with any slack will allow the wheel to move at least a little. But then, with the chain off, the rear wheel is free so it has nothing to do with the rear wheel.

Then: "and my transmission arm won't change gears (stuck in 2nd)". Hard to imagine a human calling the gearshift lever a "transmission arm".

Then replies #2-#3 are sensible and post #4 reiterates that the rear wheel is fully locked. Since we later know it's nothing to do with the rear wheel and since the plugs are out, only a very tight primary chain along with a locked gearbox or engine can cause this and the clutch is either stuck or not being disengaged.

@DaveinCanada if you're human, I apologize for doubting you but go to my web site, get my phone number and call me for direct help. If you don't want to call internationally, email me for help.
 
Find a local person to help you. look up for a Norton club member in your area or someone who has owned one.

IF all else fails take off the clutch cover (Primary cover) And then you will have access to the front crank nut and can use a 15/16" wrench or socket to move (turn) the engine. If it is right hand shift (early model bike) it will only require you to remove the acorn nut in the center and perhaps a gentle pry to separate it and open it open. Have a large oil drain pan under it as it could have a lot of oil in it. You don't want to open up a gear box without someone who knows how to do it.
 
cliffa said:
@DaveinCanada can I ask you some questions…

1) With the chain off, and the clutch lever pulled in, can you operate the kickstart?
2) It seems you received this bike in pieces. Have you ever ridden it?

If the answer to both is no, then I strongly advise that you open the gearbox, and see what’s happening.

If you do as others have suggested and refit the chain, and wheel it backwards, you may well temporarily remove something blocking the transmission, however, it may happen again at any time by the sounds of it, and that could be catastrophic.
Click to expand...
@cliffa With the chain off and clutch lever pulled in, I cannot operate the kickstart. I have not ridden the bike. It hasn't been ridden in over 30 years. I had it running smoothing a few weeks ago (with no chain on it) on the stand.
 
marshg246 said:
I just re-read posts #1-#4 in this thread. There's something astray here when comparing those to later posts.

First, the rear wheel turned 3/4 turn and then locked - no matter how locked a gearbox is, a chain with any slack will allow the wheel to move at least a little. But then, with the chain off, the rear wheel is free so it has nothing to do with the rear wheel.

Then: "and my transmission arm won't change gears (stuck in 2nd)". Hard to imagine a human calling the gearshift lever a "transmission arm".

Then replies #2-#3 are sensible and post #4 reiterates that the rear wheel is fully locked. Since we later know it's nothing to do with the rear wheel and since the plugs are out, only a very tight primary chain along with a locked gearbox or engine can cause this and the clutch is either stuck or not being disengaged.

@DaveinCanada if you're human, I apologize for doubting you but go to my web site, get my phone number and call me for direct help. If you don't want to call internationally, email me for help.
Click to expand...
@marshg246 Excuse the "transmission arm" labeling. I'm a car guy and just used to saying transmission. Yes, the rear wheel was fully locked with the chain on it. Took the chain of and the wheel moves freely, obviously because it's not connected with the chain. The engine is not seized. I managed to move the kickstart arm slightly and can hear the pistons moving (plus I had it running beautifully a few weeks ago).
 
Carl H said:
Find a local person to help you. look up for a Norton club member in your area or someone who has owned one.

IF all else fails take off the clutch cover (Primary cover) And then you will have access to the front crank nut and can use a 15/16" wrench or socket to move (turn) the engine. If it is right hand shift (early model bike) it will only require you to remove the acorn nut in the center and perhaps a gentle pry to separate it and open it open. Have a large oil drain pan under it as it could have a lot of oil in it. You don't want to open up a gear box without someone who knows how to do it.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice. I'm trying to find someone in the Toronto, Canada area but it proving very difficult.
 
Way too many things can go wrong inside the engine.

It could be any one, or a combination of, a hundred moving parts that decided to go on holiday...
 

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