Locked Up

Tornado said:

Note that the chain slack spec in the book applies with a riders weight on the bike, ie rear suspension under normal compression. If not weighted or on the centerstand with wheel off ground, you need to increase the slack at tightest spot on chain at mid run position. Otherside when compressed, the rear brake cable can go tight and activate the brake. I dont think this is your issue but you do need to set it correctly.

If you cannot turn over engine via kickstarter with clutch pulled in, means your clutch plates are frozen together or the clutch operating lever inside the gearbox is not working correctly. Be sure the cable is correctly in line with the pass through hole in the gb casing...must be as exact as possible. Check if the operating lever at the gb end of the cable is correctly position, it can slip down and out of its pivot position and this will prevent proper lever action. All accessible from the inspection opening. If no joy, check the adjuster nut on the clutch from the primary case access port...adjust as per book...be sure to fully slacken cable at handlebar end first.

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DaveinCanada said:

@Tornado. Where are you located in Canada? Thanks for the advice.

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Tornado said:

I'm in Vancouver.

Correction to my previous comment "Otherwise when compressed, the rear brake cable can go tight and activate the brake. " ....Not sure why I wrote that...its not the drive chain being too tight that can cause brake activation...it's improper brake cable routing that can lead to activation of brake with swingarm movement. Do a search for proper cable routing for details. Having chain too tight will put loads on the gearbox/clutch bearing and primary chain as it usually leads to g/b position movement (the adjustment bolt assembly is not particularly strong).

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DaveinCanada said:

@Tornado. The chain is now off and the wheel moves freely. But the gears still won't change and the kickstart lever is stuck. How do I adjust the g/b bolt assembly? When I pull the clutch lever, I can see the cable pulling inside gearbox and something rotating.

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DaveinCanada said:

I cannot push through the kickstart when I pull the clutch lever. I can stand with my full weight on the kickstart and it doesn't budge.

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DaveinCanada said:

It came with the bike in a bag. Previous owner took it off 30 years ago.

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DaveinCanada said:

Gave it a try but not working. The back wheel is fully locked with no movement. No chance to hand rotate it. Tried shaking it and playing with the trans lever but no luc

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cliffa said:

@DaveinCanada can I ask you some questions…

1) With the chain off, and the clutch lever pulled in, can you operate the kickstart?
2) It seems you received this bike in pieces. Have you ever ridden it?

If the answer to both is no, then I strongly advise that you open the gearbox, and see what’s happening.

If you do as others have suggested and refit the chain, and wheel it backwards, you may well temporarily remove something blocking the transmission, however, it may happen again at any time by the sounds of it, and that could be catastrophic.

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ashman said:

So this means the bike has sat for 30 years??? if so maybe it had a GB problem if it was laid up for that long.

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concours said:

@DaveinCanada what bikes have you owned in the past?

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marshg246 said:

I just re-read posts #1-#4 in this thread. There's something astray here when comparing those to later posts.

First, the rear wheel turned 3/4 turn and then locked - no matter how locked a gearbox is, a chain with any slack will allow the wheel to move at least a little. But then, with the chain off, the rear wheel is free so it has nothing to do with the rear wheel.

Then: "and my transmission arm won't change gears (stuck in 2nd)". Hard to imagine a human calling the gearshift lever a "transmission arm".

Then replies #2-#3 are sensible and post #4 reiterates that the rear wheel is fully locked. Since we later know it's nothing to do with the rear wheel and since the plugs are out, only a very tight primary chain along with a locked gearbox or engine can cause this and the clutch is either stuck or not being disengaged.

@DaveinCanada if you're human, I apologize for doubting you but go to my web site, get my phone number and call me for direct help. If you don't want to call internationally, email me for help.

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Carl H said:

Find a local person to help you. look up for a Norton club member in your area or someone who has owned one.

IF all else fails take off the clutch cover (Primary cover) And then you will have access to the front crank nut and can use a 15/16" wrench or socket to move (turn) the engine. If it is right hand shift (early model bike) it will only require you to remove the acorn nut in the center and perhaps a gentle pry to separate it and open it open. Have a large oil drain pan under it as it could have a lot of oil in it. You don't want to open up a gear box without someone who knows how to do it.

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