Longer side stands for the G15?

[Hortons Norton]

The side stand seems to be at least 1" or so short. It measures 12" and is at an extreme angle. I've looked but can't seem to find one. I have been riding around with a 2x4 on my rack lol, any help would be cool.

Chuck

 

[mdt-son]

Your frame lug / rail may be twisted as a result of abuse (e.g., kickstarting while bike is on side stand). Even the sturdy G15 frame can suffer, and there are regularly bent side stands offered on eBay witnessing the abuse. A worn pivot hole and bolt is another possible cause for the lean.
The latter is easily sorted.

There is some dubiety as to length of stands fitted originally. Some AMC models had sizeable extensions welded to the center stand, and these models would require a longer prop (side) stand as well.
Alas, the part number listed for e.g. the 1964 G15CS is still 014719 (=014715 with a curled piece if thin rod welded to the footing). I suspect this number hides stands of different lengths.
The original side stand developed in the 50's fitted roadster models rolling on 19" wheels. AFAIK it still fits the 64' onwards roadsters equipped with 18" wheels (e.g., the G15Mk2) despite new forks and differing geometry at the rear.

So, what you can do is either
* have a custom side stand cast to your specifications, or
* extend 014715 / 014719 by cutting and welding in a section from another used stand. Apparently, there are stands on the market with a thicker leg at the transition to the foot. These stands lend themselves better to extension mods than the thin legged stands.
Keep the upper part of the stand unmolested. Use a professional TIG welder and have him do a full penetration butt weld.

- Knut

 

[mdt-son]

Another solution is to thicken the foot of your stand by welding on some threaded bosses at the underside, to which a larger and thicker pad can be bolted. You can easily gain 1" of thickness or more this way. Such pads are offered for modern dual-purpose bikes, as the footprint of their side stands are often too small to cope with parking on gravel. The pad can be made of aluminum or a polymer composite, to keep the additional weight down. Let's know how you go by.

- Knut

 

[Hortons Norton]

Thanks Knut, I wonder why the center stands of the CS and CSR have different part #'s but the prop stands don't? I know the shocks are longer and the front end also, but everything looks good on the frame. The center stand on this bike is useless, there is no way I can even come close to getting it up on it. I think i will add a piece of hard rubber to the bottom of the prop stand for now and then look for something I can have modified. Also if my memory is right awhile back I think I heard that there was an aftermarket center stand for these bikes? Thanks again for your time.

Chuck

 

[mdt-son]

Thanks Knut, I wonder why the center stands of the CS and CSR have different part #'s but the prop stands don't? I know the shocks are longer and the front end also, but everything looks good on the frame.

G15CS has a 19" knobby tire up front and an 18" knobby tire at the rear + longer shocks (front forks are the same). I think that explains the need for extended feet on the center stand vs. the standard center stand on the G15CSR.
Why the prop stand isn't extended is the million dollar question. Perhaps it was without being recorded? Such things have happened.

The center stand on this bike is useless, there is no way I can even come close to getting it up on it. <...> Also if my memory is right awhile back I think I heard that there was an aftermarket center stand for these bikes?

Yes, the Rob Swift easy pull center stand. PM sent.

- Knut

 

[gpzkat]

Mine is the proper unit, is properly mounted, was bent but straightened out at a shipyard in upper WA state by a nice Norwegian machinist. It is perfect but not perfect, i.e. it deploys and retracts as it should, but the 'toe' is at the wrong angle. I am sure that they just didn't give a damn at the time. And yep, it is too short. It sits 'OK', but In the garage I like to put a spacer under it. A hockey puck is about right. I have just had some work done on the awful '71 Commando sidestand - now it's OK. The shop I found uses a very impressive TIG setup, and it's all good now. I wish the owner wasn't such a complete tool but hey, what do you expect? If I come across a couple hundred bucks to get the stand perfect, I'll do it. Until then it's a $3 hockey puck.

 

[Hortons Norton]

Here is what I came up with, I’m getting a little bit better with my mig welding.

 

[mdt-son]

Here is what I came up with, I’m getting a little bit better with my mig welding.

Nice and works well on solid ground. On gravel, a larger base is required. An extended leg would save weight over the thickened foot.

- Knut

 

[mdt-son]

Mine is the proper unit, is properly mounted, was bent but straightened out at a shipyard in upper WA state by a nice Norwegian machinist. It is perfect but not perfect, i.e. it deploys and retracts as it should, but the 'toe' is at the wrong angle. I am sure that they just didn't give a damn at the time. And yep, it is too short. It sits 'OK', but In the garage I like to put a spacer under it. A hockey puck is about right.

Unless someone has a new-in-the-crate bike, we will never know how well the prop stand worked when these bikes left the factory. It was probably working well. To me, the fact that your stand was badly bent suggests that the frame may have suffered too by twisting.

An extension to your prop stand leg by a 3/4" infill near the toe should be a fairly simple job for a welder, certainly less expensive than a couple hundred bucks. Two full pen butt welds are all it takes. You should prepare the infill piece yourself (a slightly cone cylinder made of rod steel). That's what I plan to do on my stand.

- Knut

 

[gpzkat]

Unless someone has a new-in-the-crate bike, we will never know how well the prop stand worked when these bikes left the factory. It was probably working well. To me, the fact that your stand was badly bent suggests that the frame may have suffered too by twisting.

An extension to your prop stand leg by a 3/4" infill near the toe should be a fairly simple job for a welder, certainly less expensive than a couple hundred bucks. Two full pen butt welds are all it takes. You should prepare the infill piece yourself (a slightly cone cylinder made of rod steel). That's what I plan to do on my stand.

- Knut

I got it on eBay, my frame is A-OK. I just had a welder recommended to fix the Commando's frame. A smaller/easier task, and he charged $200. Any labor is ridiculous where i live. It's hard even to find someone who will take on a small job. Maybe I'll take it off and bring it with me to Washington in a couple weeks, and see if I can get it done by that same guy at the boatyard.

 

[Schwany]

I got it on eBay, my frame is A-OK. I just had a welder recommended to fix the Commando's frame. A smaller/easier task, and he charged $200. Any labor is ridiculous where i live. It's hard even to find someone who will take on a small job. Maybe I'll take it off and bring it with me to Washington in a couple weeks, and see if I can get it done by that same guy at the boatyard.

You gonna be in the Seattle area? You should consider stopping by for a couple of minutes to see my improper P11. Good for a laugh if nothing else.

 

[gpzkat]

You gonna be in the Seattle area? You should consider stopping by for a couple of minutes to see my improper P11. Good for a laugh if nothing else.

I'm only passing through, heading up to Anacortes. Thanks for the offer tho! Maybe next time.

 

[ludwig]

Unless someone has a new-in-the-crate bike, we will never know how well the prop stand worked when these bikes left the factory. .

- Knut

I bought my N15 new in 1970 , build year 1969 (!).
The side stand worked well, but the egg shaped foot was originally on a steep angle.
It touched the floor only with the tip. Not so good on soft ground.
I also disliked the fact that the stand automatically retracted.
It caused the bike kiss the ground a few times.
I changed that by drilling a spring hole more forward in the frame tube.
Later I added a switch and a buzzer to warn me for the stand ( and for ignition left on..)
Like others, I also added a pad to make it higher:

 

[mdt-son]

I changed that by drilling a spring hole more forward in the frame tube.

I guess that new location produced a "past the peak extension", allowing the prop stand to rest in that position. Can you please share with us the new location for the spring?
Did you change the spring too?

- Knut

 

[ludwig]

Can you please share with us the new location for the spring?
Did you change the spring too?

- Knut

It is moved around 3 cm forward, so that the spring passes the side stand bolt when extended.
You can see that in the picture.
The spring is not the original one. ( Nothing on that bike is original)

 

[gpzkat]

I bought my N15 new in 1970 , build year 1969 (!).
The side stand worked well, but the egg shaped foot was originally on a steep angle.
It touched the floor only with the tip. Not so good on soft ground.

Good info. Mine is 'steep angle' as you say, but it doesn't retract automatically, thankfully. It's OK on solid ground but I carry a hockey puck in my pocket, which I've 'fitted' to the stand with some heat and smelly melting, for use when the ground is suspect (hot day, blacktop, sand, etc.) Puck is a hack for now. One of these days I'm gonna circle back on the stands, I just don't have spare change. My trouble with the center stand is another thorn in my side which comes down to $ and know-how I suppose. I can't pour money into such things, so I get by with a janky side-stand & puck. The rest of the bike is perfect!