Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil

Sorry yet another boring oil thread....
Interesting read found on the Castrol website, regarding the use of this oil in our machines.
Click the "More info tab" and read down.
Mmmm, that is interesting. I wonder why they say that it should not be used with roller bearings?
 
Mmmm, that is interesting. I wonder why they say that it should not be used with roller bearings?
One of my other bikes is a Ducati bevel drive, which is full of roller bearings and gears. These tend to be rather expensive to rebuild, so lots of people become really anal about what goop to use.
The original story was that multigrade oils would breakdown quickly due to the shearing action of the gears and bearings, with the result that your 20W50 would rapidly become a straight 20 oil with expensive sounds rapidly following. Some of the best known and respected Ducati gurus claimed to be able to smell if an owner had used multigrade oils, and refused to warrant their work on such motors. What the legal position on this would be I don't know (and would prefer not to!!).

All that changed with the advent of synthetic oils, which do not need the long chain polymers required in dino juice to get the broad viscosity stability, and which allegedly were chopped up by all the rotating bits.

Ducati themselves changed to specifying multigrade oils after about 1975, and a lot of the good and great gurus recommend it for the better cold start lubrication.

Here's a link to Brook Henry of Vetoo in Oz, who really knows his Ducati beans : https://www.veetwo.com/Info/what-engine-oil-do-we-use-and-recommend-for-ducati-bevel-engines-you-ask
 
Sorry yet another boring oil thread....
Interesting read found on the Castrol website, regarding the use of this oil in our machines.
Click the "More info tab" and read down.
They are talking about Mineral Oil, not Castrol GTX 20W50 Conventional or Castrol GTX 20W50 Classic Conventional. Norton never said to use Mineral Oil!

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You have lost me....
The Castrol oil recommended by Norton is GTX and is made out of dinosaurs (conventional). The oil you found is XL and is usually a bi product of making gasoline relate to petroleum jelly.

I've never heard of anyone using Mineral Oil in a Vintage British Bike. Mineral oil is clear - you probably have some in the house - some baby oil is mineral oil and some is vegetable oil.

Today, Castrol oil makes GTX in Conventional and Part Synthetic. GTX Classic is Conventional with more Zinc.

Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil
Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil
 
"AI Overview

Yes, the terms "conventional oil" and "mineral oil" are often used interchangeably and generally refer to the same type of engine oil. They are both derived from refined crude petroleum and are a base oil product from which various motor oil formulations are created.

Here's a more detailed explanation:
  • Conventional oil
    is a term used to describe the most basic type of engine oil, sometimes also called mineral oil.

  • Mineral oil
    is one of the base oils used in conventional motor oil. It's a product of the refining process of crude oil, where natural contaminants and unwanted hydrocarbons are removed.

  • Additives
    are then blended with mineral oil to create the final conventional motor oil product. "
 
It is mineral oil.
GTX is and always have been available in the US since its introduction AFAIK. I have been using for a very long time. Jim Comstock rated it quite high.

Today it's available, in Conventional, Synthetic, and Classic (High Zinc Conventional). The XL oil that started this thread and very different from GTX.


Castrol Classic 20w-50 Engine oil
 
Well, as I said GTX 20w/50 isn't available in the UK.

I currently use Morris 20w/50 Race V-Twin not that I ever race.
 
I will stick to my Penrite classic MC oil and STP mixture my Norton runs very well on it and the STP gives the extra protection, been using it since 1982 and when I replace my crank cases over 15+ years ago my conrod bearings had very little wear on them, but of course all bearing were replaced for the new crank cases, in fact all bearings were still useable and my bores were also good as well my original valves.
I don't care what people say about STP but it has protected my motor, my crank cases were replaced from a broken middle front piece where the middle stud was, the broken piece was rolling around on top of my crank for a few years when idling, always made a clunking noise when idling lol, I just glued the stud in and never leaked, from my youth of caning my Norton, glad those days are over lol, well sort of.
 


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