Paint question
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Richard Tool
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I think ( generally speaking) enamels are oil based and acrylic enamels are water based but there are some exceptions to this .
The acrylic enamels generally are more elastic and have shorter drying times and are supposed to be more durable. If painting at home from rattle cans the acrylic enamel is probably a better choice as the shorter drying time helps avoid dust in the finish .
Since you already have both , why not do a couple test samples and see which you prefer ?
I sold automotive paint for years, and straight, or synthetic enamel, as a vehicle paint, went out in the 50s. DuPont then sold Centari acrylic enamel for years but it required an activator to cure properly and once activated it had a shelf life measured in hours. Are you using rattle cans? What brand? If you want real durability you can buy urethane 2 part paint in a spray can from automotive paint suppliers custom mixed and put in a spray can. The only straight enamels I ever mixed or sold were labeled as machinery and equipment paint or appliance paint.
Britstuff
VIP MEMBER
As far as rattle can "Enamel" is concerned, this stuff works well for some parts, (I used it to repaint my battery box and oil tank on my '74 Commando).
www.rustoleum.com
It goes on evenly and drips less than some alternatives. However, be warned, it takes a good week + to even begin to cure! Until then it remains quite soft. Good enough for smaller parts, maybe side covers (if you have the skill), but definitely not a good choice for a gas tank.
Appliance Paint | Rust-Oleum
Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy lets you fix chips and scratches or fully paint the exterior of appliances. Offered in a variety of sizes, colors and finishes.
It goes on evenly and drips less than some alternatives. However, be warned, it takes a good week + to even begin to cure! Until then it remains quite soft. Good enough for smaller parts, maybe side covers (if you have the skill), but definitely not a good choice for a gas tank.
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Thanks for the replies. I am just painting the brake backing plate along with some other small parts. I glass beaded the parts yesterday and picked up some self etching primer and black acrylic paint.Both Rust-Oleum brand. The reason for my questions is that I don’t want to do it twice due to my own ignorance.Appreciate the help.
Mike
Mike
Ron L
VIP MEMBER
Enamel is a name used by the industry to describe a polymer system which cures by cross-linking of the polymer (or polymers) in the paint. This is distinguished from a lacquer which cures simply my evaporation of the solvents that carry the polymers and pigments. Enamels may be made from acrylic polymers, alkyd polymers, polyester polymers, epoxy polymers, urethane polymers, etc. A cross-linked film is generally more chemical resistant, abrasion reistant, crack resistant, than lacquers. Futhermore, there are significant property differences in enamels dependent on the polymers used. Most of today's professional automotive enamels for refinish work are acrylic urethane based. Most automotive refinish clear coats are urethane crosslinked with a 'blocked' isocyanate. Aerosol "touch-up" paints for automotive use are generally straight acrylic polymer based which are more compatible with the less toxic solvents and propellents used.
robs ss
VIP MEMBER
Mike
Have you looked at the 2-part epoxy pressure packs? They are way ahead of conventional enamels & acrylic pressure packs.
I did many small parts including the rear brake backing plate.
It goes rock hard - so no squishing out from washers, etc.
The only disadvantage is when you press the button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener you've got to use it within 24hrs. Oh - and it's not cheap. Small penalty though!
Our local distributor distributor makes the packs up in his shop and you can choose gloss, satin (my preference) or matt.
Its called 2K System - my brand is Spray Max (2K FILLCLEAN SYSTEM)
I recommend you have a look.
Cheers
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baz
VIP MEMBER
I agree
I also use these,I'd say it's fairly expensive but so convenient and hard wearing with a brilliant finish
So worth the money IMO
Ron L
VIP MEMBER
The Spray-Max system is usually filled at the jobber with whatever brand paint they carry. They mix the base color and if needed add the hardener to the button activated container and crimp the lid to the can. These are generally the standard automotive acrylic-urethane basecoat and hardener. Spray-Max has their own pre-filled cans of urethane clear with isocycanate catalyst, or the jobber can fill a can with their (your) favorite brand of clear topcoat and catalyst. SprayMax also fills their own brand of epoxy primer and catalyst. The nice part of this system is very little waste and clean-up. If you already own a decent gun and compressor, the cost of using Spray-Max from primer to base to clear can get pretty expensive.
Shelby-Right
VIP MEMBER
Some other quite durable paints in rattle cans , that I use on oil tanks calipers barrels , is VHT barrel paint and caliper paint , for a better paint on petrol tanks you'd be better off with 2 pot compatible paint which Is single part or proper 2 pot , with proper 2 pot clears over the top , correct me if I'm wrong . as suggested by others .
Ron L
VIP MEMBER
I think what you mean is 2K paint , which is a paint which requires a hardener or catalyst and has a limited pot life after mixing. Examples are acrylic urethane with a hardener, a urethane clear topcoat with a catalyst, or epoxy with a crosslink agent. Single stage paint does not require a hardener or catalyst. Just add reducer and spray. These have no pot life restriction. The term 2K is often mistaken for basecoat/clearcoat systems. Basecoats may or may not be 2K paint. Clearcoats are nearly always 2K.
Shelby-Right
VIP MEMBER
2 pot / 2k / 2 part .
