What is this? And what was Heinz thinking

Status
Not open for further replies.

N0rt0nelectr@

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
1,147
Country flag
A friend went over to visit Heinz and Karen Keglers son. While he was there he was shown this thing Heinz had built. Looking at it I can see it is for the clutch but what it's purpose is I have no idea. I'm 600 miles away so all I have to work with is this picture.
It looks to me to be a tool to hold the clutch but it sure looks like a very complicated way to do it, and what is the purpose of the threaded rod that has "wings" to lock it into the cross bar.
Ideas?

John in Texas

What is this?  And what was Heinz thinking
 
Tool for installing the rubbers in the Norton Commando cush hub....:)
 
Maybe it's a puller for when someone actually follows the manual and cranks down to 80 ft/lb on that poor circlip?
 
it could be way to use the triplex chain and clutch drum to hold the crankshaft from turning to tighten a crankshaft nut, or it could just be a home made clutch compressor.... or both!
 
If, you unbolt that cross piece, turn the blue tool over and find that you can bolt the cross piece back on, then pass the pinned bolt through the cross piece, thread it into the clutch hub and tighten the nut on the bolt, you would have a clutch spring compressor. The pinned bolt snugged down to the clutch hub would assure sufficient thread engagement with the hub. Just a WAG.
 
What is this?  And what was Heinz thinking
If, you unbolt that cross piece, turn the blue tool over and find that you can bolt the cross piece back on, then pass the pinned bolt through the cross piece, thread it into the clutch hub and tighten the nut on the bolt, you would have a clutch spring compressor. The pinned bolt snugged down to the clutch hub would assure sufficient thread engagement with the hub. Just a WAG.

Similar application
 
Here is a much simpler version I carry in my toolkit when I travel. It has come in really handy a few times -and not only for my bike. Just 3/16 strips of aluminum.

I also have one for the cam chain but it's made of steel and hangs over my workbench.

What is this?  And what was Heinz thinking


What is this?  And what was Heinz thinking
 
Here is a much simpler version I carry in my toolkit when I travel. It has come in really handy a few times -and not only for my bike. Just 3/16 strips of aluminum.
I do the same with a large bolt in the clutch, but have never scotched from sprocket to hub like that. (and they are shown with opposite resistance, as in to remove, not to torque)
 
You'll all laugh derisively, but I've always jammed a plastic screwdriver handle between the chain and sprocket teeth.
 
You'll all laugh derisively, but I've always jammed a plastic screwdriver handle between the chain and sprocket teeth.

Plastic makes more sense than metal...easier on the chain and sprocket offering a good "bite" minimizing slippage, if something gives its going to be the plastic, good idea.
 
Or use the small step chock that Harley mechanics use on the primary drive, a great little tool.
sam
 
That works, but generates incredible force on the chain, and involved shafts/bearings. Emergency use only.

I agree, a screwdriver handle under the chain is a good way to bend the transmission mainshaft, particularly if you are torquing the rotor nut.
[learned the hard way]
 
The tools that would exert force all around the perimeter of the basket rather than using the chain's connection would seem best. I've seen lots of clutch tools made from an inner and outer plate welded together with a handle tacked on.
 
The tools that would exert force all around the perimeter of the basket rather than using the chain's connection would seem best. I've seen lots of clutch tools made from an inner and outer plate welded together with a handle tacked on.

I would have to agree and I have one of them hanging above my workbench also. But I don't pack it in my toolkit.
I prefer that for torquing the clutch nut but I still prefer the long aluminum strut for torquing the rotor nut.
 
I've always put it in gear with the clutch assembled and put a piece of wood across the swingarm to torque the rotor nut, but your simple tool is definitely more elegant and likely less hassle. Only issue I could see is with the MkIII's tensioner and e-start gears being in the way, but I suppose doing the nut before assembling all that would work.

Could you list the lengths and widths of these two plates?
 
I've always put it in gear with the clutch assembled and put a piece of wood across the swingarm to torque the rotor nut, but your simple tool is definitely more elegant and likely less hassle. Only issue I could see is with the MkIII's tensioner and e-start gears being in the way, but I suppose doing the nut before assembling all that would work.

Could you list the lengths and widths of these two plates?

Both of mine are 1 1/8 inch wide and 3/16 thick. The short one is 1.9 inch long and the long one is 6 inches long.

6 inches works well with the stock chain drive or the tall ratio RGM drive.

If I remember right it needs to be around 1/4 inch longer for the standard ratio belt drives but I don't have one here to measure at the moment.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top