Kick start shaft

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My kick start lever sits on the kickstart shaft with between 1/8 and 1/4 " recess between the end of the shaft and the outer edge of the lever. It should probably be flush but because the shaft does not appear to protrude fully protrude from the out gearbox case, there is not full contact between lever spline and shaft.

With the splines within the lever now worn I have attempted to reseat the lever but no go; its in as far as the outer case can go and worn to the the point of non-serviceable.

I'm wondering if there is a shim or spacer on the opposite end of the shaft that would move the shaft outboard more for better spline access.

Any thoughts?
 
That is so far wrong I can't think what the issue is, only suggestion is to open the box and start measuring. Was there an earlier model that used a shorter kickstart shaft ?
 
end play on the layshaft is taken up with shims, but nowhere near what you've got going on...

https://www.oldbritts.com/gearbox_a.html

Kick start shaft
 
You should have about 1/8 of stickout beyond the spline step on the inbound side. You need to open the outer cover . If you have a small inspection mirror that can pass through the inspection cover and a good light then look for shims added or something . What you have there is not right.
Good luck .
T.
 
The weird thing is its running through the gears just fine. I'll get inside and take a closer look. I hope it isn't a matter of the previous owner using the incorrect shaft. Thanks all.
 
When you get the shaft sticking out right, I'd suggest a grade 8 or even better bolt through the KS holes. Sometimes the unthreaded part needs opening up too so the KS can be compressed on the shaft completely without binding or bending the bolt. Use a flat washer to ease the torque on the bolt head. I really crank down on that KS bolt. I used to have problems with it coming loose and buggering the shaft splines, not any more.
 
i was just watching mick hemmings video on the GB rebuild. there are more than 1 cover and if i remember correctly also different KS shafts lengths (Gearbox N model has a shorter shaft vs NA model)

what yr and model is you bike? and do you have the matching GB to the serial # of the engine.

second thought how long have you had the bike and did you replace the kickstarter, because it is always possible that it is in error...
 
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i was just watching mick hemmings video on the GB rebuild. there are more than 1 cover and if i remember correctly also different KS shafts lengths (Gearbox N model has a shorter shaft vs NA model)

what yr and model is you bike? and do you have the matching GB to the serial # of the engine.

second thought how long have you had the bike and did you replace the kickstarter, because it is always possible that it is in error...

I've had the bike almost 10 years now and has started reliably without any issue. But the KS lever recently started slipping on worn splines. The previous owner sold me the bike unassembled in 5 boxes of parts and told me all bits were all correct for that year bike (71 Commando). I'm now beginning to worry that the cover and shaft are not correct matching parts (thus the incorrect length ; bollocks). I'll get inside today and see if there's any play available on the KS shaft. My guess is no.
 
i was just watching mick hemmings video on the GB rebuild. there are more than 1 cover and if i remember correctly also different KS shafts lengths (Gearbox N model has a shorter shaft vs NA model)

what yr and model is you bike? and do you have the matching GB to the serial # of the engine.

second thought how long have you had the bike and did you replace the kickstarter, because it is always possible that it is in error...
Do you have a link for the Hemmings video? Thanks
 
When you get the shaft sticking out right, I'd suggest a grade 8 or even better bolt through the KS holes. Sometimes the unthreaded part needs opening up too so the KS can be compressed on the shaft completely without binding or bending the bolt. Use a flat washer to ease the torque on the bolt head. I really crank down on that KS bolt. I used to have problems with it coming loose and buggering the shaft splines, not any more.
I've been through two bolts on the issue you describe. And they are a tight fit too with the bolt head / foot rest clearance under 1/4" so appropriate sized washers are important. The 3/8" x 24 bolt (#8) is actually rather difficult to come by. Likely have to order it from Old Brits or Britcycle Supply ~ Whitworth?
 
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Seems to me that I bought a grade 8 bolt at the local tractor supply here in VA.
 
I have never had any luck with keeping the kickstart crank tight once the shaft splines are worn. Even with a new crank, it will loosen and get damaged like the old one in time. You got to bite the bullet and buy them both . Ask me how I know . I tried the grade 8 trick without any success.
 
How I stopped my old kick start from coming loose was to install a longer bolt with the same thread and also put a nut on at the bottom, tighten the bolt as tight as I can then put the nut on and give it a good tighten, fixed the problem, but now have replaced the kicker with a T160 folding kicker from RGM and so far has not come loose at all and no more kicker in the back of the leg when riding.

Ashley
 
Do you have a link for the Hemmings video? Thanks
I have actually purchased the DVD which Mick Hemmings has produced. since i have a gearbox open right now, i suggest you take pictures and measurements and post here. i will do like wise and then you can verify
 
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