Kick start shaft

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Stillreel said:
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that picture verifys that its not a bolt problem but likely a dimensional variance. could be KS shaft, or KS spline body. the groove in the shaft (between the splines) should lineup with the bolt hole in the KS knuckle. can you thread a bolt through and tighten it down?
 
CanukNortonNut said:
I have never had any luck with keeping the kickstart crank tight once the shaft splines are worn. Even with a new crank, it will loosen and get damaged like the old one in time. You got to bite the bullet and buy them both . Ask me how I know . I tried the grade 8 trick without any success.
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What has worked for me was to open up the slit that is in the kickstater using two or three hacksaw blades together on the one hacksaw frame.Then use a high grade socket head bolt with a washer and split washer.
It seems to me that once the kickstart comes slightly loose and is used in this state over time the splined area in the kicker wears and also stretches and by increasing the slotted width in the kickstart greater tightness can be achieved on the splines.
Paul
 
I measured the kick start shaft stub stick out from the case at 7/8 inch.
 
All sorted. Thanks. Removed one of the KS shaft shims, used thinner gaskets and pulled the KS shaft out resulting in an additional +1/8" outboard, reseated KS lever 5/16" deeper on the shaft, a new #8 3/8" x 20 bolt, reefed on with a 2' bar to close the gap in the KS lever. All good and snug. Let's see how long this lasts.

Imagine a world where a Norton rider could walk up to their machine (71 Commando), push a button .... AND IT STARTS! There it is; happily blurbling with a throaty 850 RPM idle, eager to hit the road and be gone. A magical, fantasy world; free from stresses, profanities and upset neighbours; a calm & peaceful place that exists only in my dreams.
 
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Stillreel said:
All sorted. Thanks. Removed one of the KS shaft shims, used thinner gaskets and pulled the KS shaft out resulting in an additional +1/8" outboard, reseated KS lever 5/16" deeper on the shaft, a new #8 3/8" x 20 bolt, reefed on with a 2' bar to close the gap in the KS lever. All good and snug. Let's see how long this lasts.

Imagine a world where a Norton rider could walk up to their machine (71 Commando), push a button .... AND IT STARTS! There it is; happily blurbling with a throaty 850 RPM idle, eager to hit the road and be gone. A magical, fantasy world; free from stresses, profanities and upset neighbours; a calm & peaceful place that exists only in my dreams.
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for $2500+ install an Alton and your dreams could be answered
 
There is a saying that if you keep doing the same thing without making any changes and expect your problem to be fixed, you wont get anywhere.
You could buy and new kick starter shaft and kick starter and a new 3/8 UNF bolt, put it all together and the same thing will happen.

On the other hand, you can fix the problem with your existing kick-starter and shaft. Trouble is, you need to be a good automotive engineer to work out whats wrong with the set up and then go about doing the necessary mods. I did that and I don't have any problems in that area with either of my commando's. [ and the both had floppy kick starters ]

Search this website and find out what I did. Use your head, not your money.

Clue.
When I first rebuilt my gearbox, I spoke to Bob Nesbit about the end float in my lay-shaft. He said don't worry about it. It was never a problem with the original bearing, [ after all, its only a push fit ] and he was right, I have never had a problem after fitting the "Super Blend Bearing". My kick start shaft sticks out as it was designed.
 
How about a Colorado Norton Works electric starter kit? Nothin' but good reviews about it. Alton seemed to have had some teething problems.
 
I'm still good with one kick 95% of the time so don't need no electric start....Just like petting my dog.
 
IMHO the CNW starter is 10 times the better system over the alton.
 
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