- Joined
- Oct 15, 2006
- Messages
- 33
The Commando side stand issues have been a topic of discussion (derision?) here for some time. It seems to me it is a design intended for an era of unimproved road and roadside surfaces that benefited from distributing the load over a wider surface. Problem is that it transmits the load as a large bending moment using the stand as a 2’ lever to the (small) pivot that quickly wears out and sometimes fails just as you apply max load kicking the motor over (not recommended, but you did it just that one time. Right? :wink
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You can remove the stand (that won’t happen again... but it was convenient), replace it with a new one (that won’t happen again... for a while), or replace it with a more contemporary and shorter clamp-on aftermarket stand (works well... looks a bit out of place).
Recently I was awaiting a parts order to complete an interminable rebuild project when I manually swung my side stand. It was a mess. The bore in the stand was worn to an oval and the bolt wallowed in its thread unless the lock-in bolt was tightly torqued, in which case it wobbled a bit less.
The solution seemed to be to assist the cantilevered bolt by adding support and creating a clevis joint. But first the stand needed repair to create a precision pivot. One option would be to start by purchasing a new stand ($100+). Or restore the existing stand bearing. Note that the described fix requires the later side stand bracket design.
I found a 3/4” x 5/8” bronze bearing at the local hardware store. Using a (3/4” max, 1/16” steps – self aligns with existing hole) step drill, drill press and vise I re-board the stand, then press fit the bearing (assisted by Loctite retaining compound) into the hole and drilled and reamed the bearing to closely fit the hardened steel bush.
I then fabricated a 1/8” “Z” bracket aligned with, and matching, the underside of the mounting weldment and bored/reamed it to the pivot bolt just under its head.
Final installation requires a ¼” gr 5 bolt to attach the bracket to the underside of the bracket. Assemble the and drill a 5/32” tap drill size hole through the weldment and bracket. Tap the weldment (1/4-28). Drill the bracket 1/4”. Screw in 1/4 x1” gr 5+ bolt w/ locking nut on top. Fettling with the 3/8” pivot bolt and lock nut will achieve smooth low effort swing and “down” position with little or no slop. I tapped the bracket because little room on the bracket for a retaining screw hex head and there is a lot more material to grip. A socket head screw threaded into the bracket may work and would be easier to thread.
It is a bundle of work to make/fit up a one-off unit. If there is sufficient interest I might offer bracket/kit. You will still need to drill and tap for the securing bolt. PM me if interested.
Photos
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ajp0LHBjgmfvp3KOvK5ff-baK10f
Dave Winship
.You can remove the stand (that won’t happen again... but it was convenient), replace it with a new one (that won’t happen again... for a while), or replace it with a more contemporary and shorter clamp-on aftermarket stand (works well... looks a bit out of place).
Recently I was awaiting a parts order to complete an interminable rebuild project when I manually swung my side stand. It was a mess. The bore in the stand was worn to an oval and the bolt wallowed in its thread unless the lock-in bolt was tightly torqued, in which case it wobbled a bit less.
The solution seemed to be to assist the cantilevered bolt by adding support and creating a clevis joint. But first the stand needed repair to create a precision pivot. One option would be to start by purchasing a new stand ($100+). Or restore the existing stand bearing. Note that the described fix requires the later side stand bracket design.
I found a 3/4” x 5/8” bronze bearing at the local hardware store. Using a (3/4” max, 1/16” steps – self aligns with existing hole) step drill, drill press and vise I re-board the stand, then press fit the bearing (assisted by Loctite retaining compound) into the hole and drilled and reamed the bearing to closely fit the hardened steel bush.
I then fabricated a 1/8” “Z” bracket aligned with, and matching, the underside of the mounting weldment and bored/reamed it to the pivot bolt just under its head.
Final installation requires a ¼” gr 5 bolt to attach the bracket to the underside of the bracket. Assemble the and drill a 5/32” tap drill size hole through the weldment and bracket. Tap the weldment (1/4-28). Drill the bracket 1/4”. Screw in 1/4 x1” gr 5+ bolt w/ locking nut on top. Fettling with the 3/8” pivot bolt and lock nut will achieve smooth low effort swing and “down” position with little or no slop. I tapped the bracket because little room on the bracket for a retaining screw hex head and there is a lot more material to grip. A socket head screw threaded into the bracket may work and would be easier to thread.
It is a bundle of work to make/fit up a one-off unit. If there is sufficient interest I might offer bracket/kit. You will still need to drill and tap for the securing bolt. PM me if interested.
Photos
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ajp0LHBjgmfvp3KOvK5ff-baK10f
Dave Winship
