My First Commando...

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Tornado said:
Checking Walridge...they've got genuine Lucas ig's without key tumbler for $57 CDN...or replica's for $29. I will attempt dismantling and re-working of the original innards first.
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They are not real hard to rebuild. I just did one and have another I need to do. I could post pics of the guts if it is of interest.
 
Gonna replace the ign swtch...mines too far gone...ripped it apart and it was a pretty hopeless case.
 
Walridge just sent thru a "Leftover item" email.
Lucas ignition switch $29.95
Tumbler and keys 7.50
 
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Yup got that flyer yesterday.
Could've saved me a few $$$ on the Venhill clutch cable I ordered a few weeks back :-( No matter, can make up that on the items I'm about to order now.
 
Today I'm attempting to replace all the handlebar cable-age....started with the new Venhill clutch cable, only to discover the nubin at the low end will not fit through the tranny casing hole. Checked on a vernier caliper and the new one is 0.204" diameter while original is 0.180". Part number seems correct for the '74 850...does it need modifying or do I need to go back to the vendor (Walridge)?
 
IF it is very close fit many of us have simply pushed firmly the nubin through the hole, others have very slightly enlarged the hole enough to push it through
 
Thx. Will try brute force and if no go, then out comes the file. Will also confirm sleeve end is correct diameter.

One more question...what is the small diameter threaded brass rod stick up out the tranny casing just behind/inboard of the cable entry hole?
 
There was once a time when I thought the guys on TriumphRAT forums were the best there could ever be...no more ;-)

Awesome...thx!
 
Got a new front tire fitted today (Dunlop K70 3.50x19). Fitted a new rim strip and a "bead-balanced" tube so don't need to fart about with rim weights. While in there took the opportunity to take off as much "plaque" rust as I could...wasn't very much at all...the 45 yrs on this OEM rim have been very mild....my 2013 front rim had/has much more rust build up inside. Used some rust converter and wire wheel to scour it down. Funny thing...seems nearly every other spoke nipple is darkly rusted (but seem to clean up reasonably) while the rest seem just fine (as far as none-polished stainless goes). This was my third attempt at tire changing ever...the first two tries on my Bonneville....ended up with two leaking tubes and I surrendered it to a local bike shop to complete the deed. The Commando wheel seemed easier...maybe I was just using better technique after much worshipping at the alter of YouTube University ;^)

Also took the brake disc off to clean it up...had lots of dark staining and even a few good sized patches of surface pitting. Using wire wheel then 400 grit wet/dry and WD40 made improvement but not fully removing all stains and only "cleaning" the pitted areas.
Waiting now on disc caliper pistons, rear cush-drives and rear hub/brake parts before I dive into the rear wheel build process.
 
Sounds like you getting into your affair.... make sure all wd40 gone before mounting pads .... you got new Caliper seals too, right .... pay close attention getting inside of Caliper perfectly clean .... you know that already , I like wooden barbyQ skewer pointy end works great in seal grooves .... enjoy !
Craig
 
Yes I already have the caliper seal kit...and did a MadAss MC sleeve upgrade kit. Caliper itself is pretty tidy...just the pistons were quite rough. New stainless set on the way.
 
Today I worked on rear wheel after pulling off bike lastnight. Man that fatty MT90 tire would not clear the brake hub when trying to remove wheel from swingarm. Had to release brake hub side and man handle it all for a while until it came out...this after trying with deflated tire and angling sideways etc.
Got tire off rim OK. Found the rim "tape" to be a rather thick band annealed to rim with some kind of aggressive adhesive. Had to use heat gun to soften up enough to permit scrapage with a tire spoon. The spokes were likely sealed yet there was still a tube present.
Hit all nipples with WD and went work with the correct size spoke wrench. Not the most fun I've had with nipples :) ! Took about 2+hrs but got all off except one which ultimately exceeded torsional yield strength of the spoke.
Next steps are to Polish hub up and start lacing new WM18 rim.
 
Patient man. I might have given up and used the zip wheel, unless those old spokes have a planned use

Glen
 
Tornado said:
Funny thing...seems nearly every other spoke nipple is darkly rusted (but seem to clean up reasonably) while the rest seem just fine (as far as none-polished stainless goes).
Click to expand...

Every other spoke nipple on the Titanic's front wheel was rusted beyond cleaning, but a fine gentleman on this website gave me 20 spokes of the correct thread. The spokes from the side that carries the rotor are heavier-gauge than their opposites.
 
Rim, Spokes and Nipples all in really great condition...should be reusable by next owner. Would have been a shame to have cut them off.
 
seems nearly every other spoke nipple is darkly rusted

I traced these to be the shortest closest spokes to brake rotor so assume its brake heat causing discoloration.

Nil young poor pilots depending on daily use Commandos now, so just save old spokes for time to time need of the few folks that break em now and then, as no one but Westley or me would re fit a whole set, just buy whole new ss set, necked down for few oz of spun mass to boot.

On front disc, my trick is ignore the angled spoke rows till the essentially straight rotor spokes are pretty tight centered, vertical before dealing with their opposing countering angled spokes, or might have to let em all loose again to get brake centered doing like I said.
 
BTW a sloppy spoke wrench will round off nipples before tight enough, only small adjustable wrench tightened down and torqued with a whack on nipple head can safely get proper high tone tension for long term stability.
 
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