clutch problems

[rob carter]

I have a 1971 750 commando,and i am experiencing problems with my clutch.
As soon as i let it out the bike stalls.It seems like theres not enough play on the cable.I have read a few comments on this forum regarding this subject and there seems to be varying ways to tackle this situation.
So my question is what are the steps to solve this problem,and what are the things to look out for.

 

[Hobot]

If newbie realize essentially every time many pages spent discussing logical faults and tests and solution, its turned out, only owner opening up everything concerned finally revealed the real issue solution no one prior had thought to mention. I'll throw out one possibility, notched clutch center splines snagging smooth plate engagement but could also be bad sleeve bushes tipping clutch basket to over engage sharply.

ugh seasoned experience implies not to ignore possibility oil supply too delayed on starts to protect bores so will too soon happen again if not being through on thinking through how/why in first place. Fixing a flat is logical unless not clearing drive of nails too.

 

[concours]

Give it more throttle...


Or do you mean it's grabby? Abrupt? Linear until it's not? We'll need more details please.

And, what have you done so far?
History of the bike?
Your skillset?

 

[bill]

the commando has a very narrow window from disengagement to engaged, the old black barnett plates are even worse. the clutch has a learning curve to slide it in to engagement and it can vary depending which plates you have. the stock 71 should have solid fiber surflex plates and i would recommend to keep them.

 

[1up3down]

Rob, the solution may be easy, why not take off the clutch inspection little cover off the primary, release the nut and turn in the slotted bolt until it just seats and then back it off 1/2-5/8 of a turn, verify the lifting arm in the gearbox is up in the right position.
I sounds like the motor dies because the clutch is not adjusted properly?

 

[DogT]

Too many issues with this question to ponder. The first thing is to go through the 'Riders Handbook' which has a perfectly good method of setting up the clutch, the cables and the adjuster. Then there's the other issue of a too tight primary chain. Still other issues like dirty/oily plates, but start from the beginning and see what happens. It's all in the thrill of owning a Norton. I hope the OP responds.

 

[rob carter]

I have a 1971 750 commando,and i am experiencing problems with my clutch.
As soon as i let it out the bike stalls.It seems like theres not enough play on the cable.I have read a few comments on this forum regarding this subject and there seems to be varying ways to tackle this situation.
So my question is what are the steps to solve this problem,and what are the things to look out for.

Too many issues with this question to ponder. The first thing is to go through the 'Riders Handbook' which has a perfectly good method of setting up the clutch, the cables and the adjuster. Then there's the other issue of a too tight primary chain. Still other issues like dirty/oily plates, but start from the beginning and see what happens. It's all in the thrill of owning a Norton. I hope the OP responds.

Rob, the solution may be easy, why not take off the clutch inspection little cover off the primary, release the nut and turn in the slotted bolt until it just seats and then back it off 1/2-5/8 of a turn, verify the lifting arm in the gearbox is up in the right position.
I sounds like the motor dies because the clutch is not adjusted properly?

I have read the manual and completed all the correct procedures.The back wheel spins when i put the bike in first gear even with the clutch fully pulled in at the lever.I will investigate further,it seems hard to do all the procedures on your own.

 

[1up3down]

Rob, where do you live? We need to find a fellow Commando owner/expert to help you.

 

[NortonMKIIA850]

I have read the manual and completed all the correct procedures.The back wheel spins when i put the bike in first gear even with the clutch fully pulled in at the lever.I will investigate further,it seems hard to do all the procedures on your own.

I feel you, that bit about it seeming hard to do it all on your own! You can expect the back wheel to spin if it's off the ground even in neutral, I suppose you might call it hydraulic drive, with the viscous gear oil; I wouldn't be surprised if it spun when in gear, even with the clutch disengaged.

Have you checked that the clutch operating lever is in its correct position? The only way to be sure the clutch is correctly adjusted is to do it with the cable free at the handlebar end, removed from the lever – then do it by the book, and re-connect the cable. That's easiest done with the lever removed too: when you're done, hook the cable into the free lever with a bit of grease on the nipple (I think someone suggested copper impregnated grease, that seems sensible), with the cable adjuster at its loosest setting; then you can slide the lever back into position and re-attach it and adjust the cable so there's just a little slack. I don't know if that helps, and that your problem isn't deeper. It might be best if you could find someone who knows these beasts to come and look at it with you, good luck!

 

[bill]

the easiest way to check for a full clean release is with the kick start lever. you can also feel where it starts to engage this way. the clutch adjustment can also have an effect on lever pull pressure. i prefer aprox. 1 1/2 turns out but you can play with it by 1/4 turn either way. another issue is gearbox oil in the clutch can cause dragging and slipping

I have read the manual and completed all the correct procedures.The back wheel spins when i put the bike in first gear even with the clutch fully pulled in at the lever.I will investigate further,it seems hard to do all the procedures on your own.

 

[rob carter]

I feel you, that bit about it seeming hard to do it all on your own! You can expect the back wheel to spin if it's off the ground even in neutral, I suppose you might call it hydraulic drive, with the viscous gear oil; I wouldn't be surprised if it spun when in gear, even with the clutch disengaged.

Have you checked that the clutch operating lever is in its correct position? The only way to be sure the clutch is correctly adjusted is to do it with the cable free at the handlebar end, removed from the lever – then do it by the book, and re-connect the cable. That's easiest done with the lever removed too: when you're done, hook the cable into the free lever with a bit of grease on the nipple (I think someone suggested copper impregnated grease, that seems sensible), with the cable adjuster at its loosest setting; then you can slide the lever back into position and re-attach it and adjust the cable so there's just a little slack. I don't know if that helps, and that your problem isn't deeper. It might be best if you could find someone who knows these beasts to come and look at it with you, good luck!

Thanks for that.I live in Perth Western Australia.The bit about the wheel moving on the stand is great information.I will Adjust as re the manual and i will keep
you all posted.Thanks for all your advice

 

[DogT]

fireflake is in Western AU, but I don't know how far from Perth. The rear wheel will turn with the engine running and in no gear if it's off the ground. That's been my experience, but I really don't know what that has to do with the clutch adjustment. I'm still of the opinion there's still too much left unsaid. You can run the bike with the primary cover off while it's on the center stand, and heck even on the road, but not full time. It might be enlightening to watch it, just don't get your fingers in the way. But if the clutch is adjusted correctly, you should feel the clutch basket break over when you've gone over the break point with the lever. It's kind of like when you pull a compound bow back and all of a sudden it feels loose. If you don't feel that, there's something wrong. And yes the engagement area is small, but you get used to it. Actually I can only loosen the adjuster from the primary side from tight about 1/4 turn or mine just won't work right. It's very critical on mine.

 

[baldy]

The check for a sticky clutch is the put the bike in neutral, pull in the clutch fully, and kick. The kickstart should drop easily without spinning the rear wheel. If not, adjust your clutch or your plates are stuck.

 

[BrianG]

I like my clutch to begin engagement early in the lever release process. Given this preference, I find that, if the bike has been sitting for a while, the clutch needs to be warmed up a little to unstick the plates before I get the expected release feel.
If one likes to have the clutch engagement to occur later in the lever release process, I find that this need for warm up is reduced substantially because of the greater mechanical separation of the clutch plates during full clutch lever pull.
In this regard, I recommend adjusting the clutch when the drive system is fully warned up to normal operatingh temps.

 

[dero]

Rob , I hope to be in Perth for a few days , in just over a weeks time . I have the necessary tools if you want a hand .

 

[Steves]

Probably need to adjust clutch stack height. You can get plates of varying thickness, check out RGM Norton

 

[rob carter]

Rob , I hope to be in Perth for a few days , in just over a weeks time . I have the necessary tools if you want a hand .

All good, I also have the tools thanks anway Rob

 

[seattle##gs]

And sometimes the plates are just old and sticky and really want to glue themselves together. The only solution then is to replace the fiber plates.

 

[MFB]

A Norton stalls? Try looking at your spark plugs. Are they sooty? Gaps correct? Just thinking outside the square. A quick and easy thing to do ( I like quick and easy ).

 

[eskasteve]

If the issue surfaced all of a sudden I'd look at the adjuster located on the clutch hub. Another thing to check would be the condition of your clutch cable. It could be waaay stretched or starting to come apart.