Z-Plates, aluminum side plates. Sam on all Commandos?

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Does anyone know if the side Z-plates are the same for all Commandos? Will plates from older models fit a MkIII? Thanks.
 
Coco said:
Does anyone know if the side Z-plates are the same for all Commandos? Will plates from older models fit a MkIII? Thanks.

They will fit but there is a 50% chance that you'll have to drill an extra hole for the second zener diode (if you're not using some sort of Powerbox) :D
 
79x100 said:
They will fit but there is a 50% chance that you'll have to drill an extra hole for the second zener diode (if you're not using some sort of Powerbox)

Actually it would be two extra holes!

As there is an additional (1/4") hole drilled in the R/H plate on 850 MkIIIs for the rear brake (hydraulic) tee junction mounting bolt.

Also worth noting that the L/H Zener hole isn't in the same position on the plate as the R/H one; and the rear of the plate around the Zener hole is a machined circular flat recess 1" diameter, leaving a plate hole depth of approx. 1/4".
 
Both Zeners are still there, but I do have the Boyer black box (mounted near the battery) and the Zeners are still connected. Any reasoning for that? I assume since there is a black box, I can ditch the Zeners?

I want to get rid of as much garbage as I can on this bike. The less wires and bits attatched the better as I am going for as clean of a machine as possible.

I never thought about the hydraulic junction block.

Scratch it. I'll hold of for proper ones to fit the MkIII.

I still want to get rid of the Zeners and the blue capacitor.
 
Coco said:
Both Zeners are still there, but I do have the Boyer black box (mounted near the battery) and the Zeners are still connected. Any reasoning for that? I assume since there is a black box, I can ditch the Zeners?

Depends what you mean by "black box"?

If it is a Boyer *Power Box* then you can safely remove the Zeners and 2MC (provided the box is the type with the internal capacitor?), as they should have been disconnected anyway, along with the standard rectifier, as a Power Box is a charge control box.

If the "black box" is a 'Micro-Mk3' box, then that is the electronic ignition amplifier box and has nothing to do with the charging circuit, so if you have an electronic ignition fitted then you will need two *boxes*, the charge control box doesn't necessarily have to be a Boyer type.
 
L.A.B. said:
Coco said:
Both Zeners are still there, but I do have the Boyer black box (mounted near the battery) and the Zeners are still connected. Any reasoning for that? I assume since there is a black box, I can ditch the Zeners?

Depends what you mean by "black box"?

If it is a Boyer *Power Box* then you can safely remove the Zeners and 2MC (provided the box is the type with the internal capacitor?), as they should have been disconnected anyway, along with the standard rectifier, as a Power Box is a charge control box.

If the "black box" is a 'Micro-Mk3' box, then that is the electronic ignition amplifier box and has nothing to do with the charging circuit, so if you have an electronic ignition fitted then you will need two *boxes*, the charge control box doesn't necessarily have to be a Boyer type.

Whoa, I think you're right. I never really took off the side panel and had a closer look until a few seconds ago. I figured since the MKIII box was crudely glued to two ratty pieces of foam that is was a not so tidy home installation job of a Boyer power box.

I'm moving to a whole new Sparx system anyhow, rectifier, alternator and all, so I will be able to rip the old junk off when I get the parts here, which should be soon.
 
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