XS breather valve and other questions

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htown16

htown16

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I ordered a Mikes XS breather valve and it came in today. I'm curious how other people have mounted this. I was thinking about hanging it from the tab that the air cleaner plate bolts to as I am using K&N filters. Also, it isn't marked as to inlet and outlet. Am I correct in assuming the smaller silver tube on the narrow side is the inlet and the larger gold color tube on the flat side is the outlet? Also wondering what size hoses to use. Any help would be appreciated.
Couple of other unrelated questions.
Don't really understand the use of the pins on the seat knobs. Screw the knobs part on put the pins in or screw down tite or what?
Also, I have a stainless steel oil feed line for the rockers. Does the feed from the oil pump go against the head and then the cross over to the other side on the outside or vice versus?
 
htown16 said:
I ordered a Mikes XS breather valve and it came in today. I'm curious how other people have mounted this. I was thinking about hanging it from the tab that the air cleaner plate bolts to as I am using K&N filters. Also, it isn't marked as to inlet and outlet. Am I correct in assuming the smaller silver tube on the narrow side is the inlet and the larger gold color tube on the flat side is the outlet? Also wondering what size hoses to use. Any help would be appreciated.
Couple of other unrelated questions.
Don't really understand the use of the pins on the seat knobs. Screw the knobs part on put the pins in or screw down tite or what?
Also, I have a stainless steel oil feed line for the rockers. Does the feed from the oil pump go against the head and then the cross over to the other side on the outside or vice versus?
Click to expand...

Which of your Nortons are you putting it on?
 
My 72, still has the standard breather setup off of the back of the crankcase.
 
Am I correct in assuming the smaller silver tube on the narrow side is the inlet and the larger gold color tube on the flat side is the outlet? Also wondering what size hoses to use. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...


You had a fifty-fifty shot. Guess again.

XS breather valve and other questions


I pulled out the outlet spigot and tapped it for a 3/8" NPT brass 90º elbow with a barb nipple. Made for a better hose routing.
 
htown16 said:
Don't really understand the use of the pins on the seat knobs. Screw the knobs part on put the pins in or screw down tite or what?
Click to expand...

The pin prevents the seat knob from being screwed all the way off the stud, so stops it from falling off and getting lost if it became loose (or the rider forgets to tighten it properly?).



htown16 said:
I have a stainless steel oil feed line for the rockers. Does the feed from the oil pump go against the head and then the cross over to the other side on the outside or vice versus?
Click to expand...

It shouldn't really matter-as long as it all fits.
 
htown16 said:
Also, it isn't marked as to inlet and outlet.
Click to expand...

I can't believe that first thing you should have done when you opened the package would be to stick it in your mouth and blow.
That was the first thing I did. You can also play it like a Kazoo.
 
hello, I am solving the same issue as you have (72 Combat with original breather). I also have K&N filter :)

My crankcase getting pressurize and easiest way for oil is to primary (primary was overfilled after every ride 10km - 1dcl). Im afraid that only re-sealing will not help.. so I planned to keep original 72 breather case only (without inner parts) and add XS650 reed valve behind it.

What you think about it?
 
Ondra_cz said:
hello, I am solving the same issue as you have (72 Combat with original breather). I also have K&N filter :)

My crankcase getting pressurize and easiest way for oil is to primary (primary was overfilled after every ride 10km - 1dcl). Im afraid that only re-sealing will not help.. so I planned to keep original 72 breather case only (without inner parts) and add XS650 reed valve behind it.

What you think about it?
Click to expand...


That will work. I've done the same on my "72" Combat.

XS breather valve and other questions
 
htown16 said:
Don't really understand the use of the pins on the seat knobs. Screw the knobs part on put the pins in or screw down tite or what?
Click to expand...
Yours may be like mine, the roll pins don't work. I'm assuming that the outer part of the stud has been worn down so the pins just ride over it and don't produce any locking effect?

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
htown16 said:
Don't really understand the use of the pins on the seat knobs. Screw the knobs part on put the pins in or screw down tite or what?
Click to expand...
Yours may be like mine, the roll pins don't work. I'm assuming that the outer part of the stud has been worn down so the pins just ride over it and don't produce any locking effect?

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

The other thing that happens it the pins get squished when somebody forces the knob off and they need to be renewed for there to be any locking. I drilled and tapped mine to accept a tiny stainless grub screw. It was pretty easy and it is a lot easier to get out than the pin.
 
The problem is the pins just fall out. Either too small or hole too large. They are aftermarket and like most of the aftermarket stuff will take some tweaking. I like the idea of tapping and installing grub screws. Since the seat has to come off to check the oil and the knobs only need to be hand tite I can definitely see the need to prevent them from unscrewing completely.
CV,
I won't have the bike running for a while so I really can't say at this point how well the breather valve works.
 
Aftermarket from Eurotrash? Mine fall right out too. (I got the stainless bolt and knob kit.) They are not made right in other ways either but had to do a little Nortoneering on them and got them to work. But right now I have some heavy copper wire in a loop thru the peg hole so they don't fall off. (That was my original problem - lost a knob.) Have to find a larger pin but I don't want to buy 100 pieces!
 
I have the CNW Breather on my 1972 Combat and it is a BOLT ON . You need to do a little maneouvering to get it in place but it installs with engine in bike,no modifications to cases and is very well made. Does it work?? You bet! It basically eliminated oil leaks and motor runs better. The CNW kit has a reed valve and billet alloy housing,all hardware was included in the kit(minus hoses and clamps).

JW
 
Combats have two ways to get oil back to tank, first main one is the big breather tube on start up wet sumped, pushes a way bigger jet of oil into tank before the wimpy oil pump splatter does and also on hi throttle 2S cam rpm when crank spin and acceleration shoves brain blood and engine oil backwards away from the eyes and front oil drain hole. Just adding better breather don't take care of the extra oil level accumulation in Combats on cam unless the low down rear ward oil path is retained or the sump drain moved to where most the oil ends up on the fly.
 
Now I hate to swear on this forum but I have just fitted a vw servo valve (from the air cooled engines and similar to the XS breather) to my Enfield Interceptor. It had a bad base gasket leak and like my Norton it complelety cured it. Was very pleased.

Sorry for swearing but to be fair the Interceptor ain't no Norton so sleep well :roll:
 
FastFred said:
Now I hate to swear on this forum but I have just fitted a vw servo valve (from the air cooled engines and similar to the XS breather) to my Enfield Interceptor. It had a bad base gasket leak and like my Norton it complelety cured it. Was very pleased.

Sorry for swearing but to be fair the Interceptor ain't no Norton so sleep well :roll:
Click to expand...


Servo (vacuum check valves) have been discussed before. And will be talked about some more... They are not reed valves but they are related. The disadvantage is the high volume of heat and pressure will probably wear them out prematurely. They are intended for just air and no oil or heat. While they can work in the short time be sure to check them regularly.
 
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