Will's '75 Commando custom restoration

grandpaul · Jan 17, 2009

"Dyno Dave's" clutch rod seal to prevent transmission oil from migrating into primary case and contaminating the clutch plates-

Primary system complete, just need to splice the chopped off alternator leads and it'll be ready to cover up. Didn't end up using the stuffer plate, it pushed the stack over the limit to be able to insert the spring retainer circlip-

Take a good look, this space between the engine and transmission will never be this clean again after the first couple of miles of testing-

grandpaul · Jan 19, 2009

Turns out they sent me the wrong tranny buchings, so I started digging through my spares and found a perfectly nice kicker gear with an excellent bushing in it-

Installed the kicker hardware, then got the outer cover assembled-

Tranny all done. This beastie has some serious compression-

grandpaul · Jan 19, 2009

The cam seal was really trashed-

Crank seal was filthy but not damaged, torn lip was done removing it-

Timing side all done except the ignition trigger unit parts-

I could get to liking this stuff...

grandpaul · Jan 19, 2009

Forgot to include the shot of the old primary tensioner bldes-

Looking better and better - Timing side-

T/S closeup of engine

Primary side nipped up -

Closeup of Pri side

grandpaul · Jan 20, 2009

Set the static timing and adjusted the valves-

That's it, the engine is done and ready to add fluids. The blank pad just below the timing cover is the best place to record the date of overhaul-

grandpaul · Jan 20, 2009

Rear brakes "before" (upper) and "after" (lower). Actually, I couldn't get the reservoir base apart from the plunger body, so I just rebuilt my spare and I'll deal with the old one on the next project -

AP racing pads & stainless bleeder nut -

Rear brakes done-

grandpaul · Jan 20, 2009

For what it's worth, I mounted the old clutch lever and new cable, and although it's not "smooth as butter", it is lighter than the average Norton clutch pull. Definitely nice for around town and fantastic for cruising.

grandpaul · Jan 21, 2009

I'm wondering how much Will is going to like this front brake master cylinder? His old unit is junk and they are quite spendy to replace; plus, the OEM
switches are totally unneccessary on that side, as on the other side. I can get one very nice do-it-all console for the left side with horn, hi/lo & kill buttons-

Dirty meters (mismatched, as well)-

All spiffy, polished & painted-

Faded idiot light panel-

New panel decal (I chipped one bezel, will likely replace all four)-

Clean dash layout-

grandpaul · Jan 21, 2009

Prepping for start-up tomorrow, just need fluids, battery, completed plug wires, front brake hose junction block, and tranny neutral switch (can't find that sucker anywhere, may not have been sent with the engine & tranny at the start)

Cookie · Jan 21, 2009

It looks practically done now.

grandpaul · Jan 21, 2009

It's practically to the running/testing/break-in stage, yes.

It has yet to get it's Lyta aluminum alloy tank & matching bum-stop / boat-tail seat, and I need to fabricate the custom oil tank and battery mount pad to put those two items as low as possible in the nook behind the engine and ahead of the rear fender.

Cookie · Jan 21, 2009

There is still quite a bit of work then. I always get a bit of joy on the first start up, really gives me a feeling of accomplishing something that has not gone away after a hundred engines and more years than I care to think about.

Rob94010 · Jan 21, 2009

grandpaul said:
It's practically to the running/testing/break-in stage, yes.

It has yet to get it's Lyta aluminum alloy tank & matching bum-stop / boat-tail seat, and I need to fabricate the custom oil tank and battery mount pad to put those two items as low as possible in the nook behind the engine and ahead of the rear fender.

A nice piece of work. In looking at your first photos, I thought you had my bike...

Besides the repairs to the fins on the cylinders, What was the condition of the cylinder walls? Also, do you change the balance factor to reduce vibration?

grandpaul · Jan 22, 2009

The cylinder walls cleaned up at .040 over from pitted standard bores (one piston was BADLY stuck).

Standard balance factor on the crank, standard (new) shells on the big ends (they were nice and clean).

grandpaul · Jan 29, 2009

The bike as it looked at startup time-

Temporary front brake setup-

Temorary battery setup-

grandpaul · Jan 29, 2009

Success!

First kick fire-up, good oil pressure in just a few seconds.

Carbs still need to be sleeved and properly tuned, they're going out this week.

It runs great and sounds really nice. The gearing is perfect, in my opinion.

Major items punchlist:

-Carb sleeving & re-adjustment

-Alloy gas tank (operating with temporary unit)

-Cafe racer seat

-Custom oil tank (using a temporary unit)

-Rearset footpegs (operating with OEM setup)

-Fenders

-Lighting & instruments

-Custom battery tray (operating with battery zip-tied in place)

-Braided stainless line for front brake (operating with temporary setup)

-complete all remaining electrical connections

-complete all remaining detail work incl. starter blank-off

Not too bad, just under 120 hours, unbelievably close to what I figured to get to start-up.

Cookie · Jan 29, 2009

First kick, that's not even fair.

Hortons Norton · Jan 29, 2009

Wow only 120 total hours? Motor and all? Have you done this before? LOL LOL That's great Paul, And the best part is you get paid. All I seem to keep doing is spending more money to buy the parts I forgot about. As much fun as this has been for me I wonder is it still fun when you are doing it for money. It sure seems as if your having fun. But about the time I finish this is about when the wife is gonna kill me, LOL. She has no clue as to the value of it, I might be able to get half my money back, LOL. But the value of the time spent with my bike will be something she could never begin to understand. For that it is worth twice as much!! Chuck. :lol: :lol:

grandpaul · Jan 29, 2009

I did the basket case '70 Roadster in about 100 hours, but I had the frame powdercoated and on the shelf, and 90% of the parts already sorted and in bins when I started. Still, disassembly only takes 8 - 12 hours total including the lump.

Remember, I don't do the machine work, polishing, sandblasting and wheel building, probably another 40 man-hours right there.

Yep, it's still fun, and always will be as long as I can still lift a wrench.

I learned a long time ago to lay out my parts bins, then go through the parts book PAGE BY PAGE and make a master parts ordering list after comparing what I had and didn't have to start with. Some things are cheaper to replace then refurbish, there is always that to weigh. Ordering everything in one "go" saves on shipping. etc., etc., etc...

rond944 · Jan 30, 2009

So what is the gearing ? I'm pretty sure I want ot go up one tooth (from 20 to 21) on my Mk III's , especially on the one that's going to get the 880 Hotrod engine .