Will's '75 Commando custom restoration

grandpaul · Oct 24, 2008

Back from the last race of the season, this was waiting for me on my front porch:

Gasket set, cables, all rubber parts, pistons, rod bearings, clutch platges, chain adjusters, oil & brake lines, isolastics, shocks, ignition, valves & guides, swingarm rebuild kit, fork rebuild kit, carb rebuild kit, sprocket, pipes, clubman bars, petcocks, etc.

There will be one more big load of parts to come, and the wheels should be back from Buchanan's any day now.

Also got in all the Cad plated hardware, pix later (after I get it all sorted).

grandpaul · Oct 24, 2008

About 1/5 of this freshly Cad plated stuff belongs to this project-

grandpaul · Dec 2, 2008

A few updates since the last post:

NOV 3-

Wheels arrived back from Buchanan's.

They look like jewels, VERY shiny.

Also got the final major parts order - wiring harness, chain, fuel lines, wheel bearings, brake hoses, clutch pushrod, stainless steel engine
screw set, brake overhaul parts including new pucks, engine mount spacers, exhaust clamps, misc. hardware

grandpaul · Dec 2, 2008

NOV 24-

Forgot to order the stanchion tubes with all the other stuff! Anyway, they finally got here.

Old fork tubes-

New tubes, assembled

New forks all spiffy and installed

grandpaul · Dec 2, 2008

NOV 24-

Broken head fins all welded up, (still need to be trimmed up with a dremel grinder tip), once re-blasted, you'll almost not notice
that they were ever broken

Ditto for the cylinders; even better because they'll be painted. They will also be decked by the macinist to ensure perfect seal

Should have a rolling chassis by the weekend, just need to find a good color match touchup paint for the masked off
engine, tranny & isolastic mount spots.

grandpaul · Dec 2, 2008

NOV 24-

Ah, yes, pretty much the last of the new parts to arrive, the peashooters!

grandpaul · Dec 2, 2008

12/2

Rear end installed, just need to set the locking pins and install the cover caps for the swingarm pivot. So, basically, the bare chassis is done.

grandpaul · Dec 3, 2008

Rear hub, disc, bearings, seals, spacers, wheel, axle & brake caliper done-

Front hub, disc, bearings, seals, spacers, wheel, axle & brake caliper done-

Rolling chassis (Avon RoadRider tires & tubes should be here tomorrow)-

Ron L · Dec 3, 2008

GrandPaul,
I assume you intentionally installed the front forks reversed? I never liked the look of the caliper in front of the fork.

It's looking good, I can't wait to see the tank and side covers mounted.

RennieK · Dec 3, 2008

Just wondering if there is a reason the front and rear discs were drilled differently.

grandpaul · Dec 3, 2008

Early style layout on the front caliper, I believe the torque forces are better dealt with that way.

Discs were drilled by different sources. I had one done and sitting on the shelf, the previous owner had one done before the client bought the bike.

RennieK · Dec 3, 2008

sorry I had to ask. Figured it would be something like that.

To convert my 72 commando to a rear disc looks like I need a hub, spokes, caliper & hose, cylinder and foot control with mount. It looks like the caliper mount connects to the axel and shock bolt and the swing arm is unaltered.

Is there a set up for left hand (actually foot) brakes or did they switch over before the rear disc came out?

Ron L · Dec 4, 2008

To convert my 72 commando to a rear disc looks like I need a hub, spokes, caliper & hose, cylinder and foot control with mount. It looks like the caliper mount connects to the axel and shock bolt and the swing arm is unaltered.

RennieK,

I have done this on my Interstate. You will also need a Mk3 swingarm or do extensive rework of the stock one. Forget using the Mk3 mastercylinder, footpeg, etc. because you will then need a Mk3 inner and outer gearbox cover, the crossover shaft and either convert to a Mk3 inner and outer primary or modify your early style.

The more you get into this conversion, the worse it gets. I ended up mounting a small (old Airheart) mastercylinder behind the frame plate and above the rear fender. This one had a bell crank and with a little fabrication I made a cable mount and operated it from the stock left side brake cable. I did it because I had a Mk3 cradle, swingarm, and wheel in the parts bin.

The end result was more unsprung weight and marginally better brake. I have since converted to a smaller, lighter Brembo disc with a Brembo caliper to match the front. I'm not really happy with the ratio of the master cylinder, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount a Brembo rear master with remote reservoir. I have to design a bellcrank to operate it, but it shouldn't be too tough.

batrider · Dec 4, 2008

Are peashooters available without the seams anymore? My stock ones (1972) didn't have a seam and neither did the Togas I put on much later. I really like the rest of the bike though....

The head and cylinders really got bashed up didn't they?

Russ

Ron L · Dec 4, 2008

GrandPaul,

When you repaired the head and barrel fins, did you sacrafice an old barrel and head for the replacement? I have a couple barrels I need to have fins repaired and wondered if there was a alternative to destroying one cylinder to repair another.

Coco · Dec 4, 2008

batrider said:
Are peashooters available without the seams anymore? My stock ones (1972) didn't have a seam and neither did the Togas I put on much later.

Russ

Russ, I got a pair of stainless pea shooters from Epco and they are seamless.

grandpaul · Dec 4, 2008

Ron, I had another set of jugs that already had a few broken fins. Thankfully, not the ones I needed for a perfect match! I still have it for a future donor situation and can cut off a couple of specific bits if they are still available, or the next-best match if you like.

The head arrived with the biggest chunk broken off, but still in the box, I either overlooked the second bit, or it was never on the head. For that bit, I used a piece of a fin from an old Japanese head that was junked.

grandpaul · Dec 4, 2008

Sludge trap was not in too bad of shape, some crud buildup here and there-

All cleaned up-

Crank all Loctited up and torqued down. I find it funny how some folks expect to produce "dry thread" torque values when using Loctite...

Rods installed and very nicely nipped up-

grandpaul · Dec 4, 2008

Cases cleaned up and ready for bearings-

Superblends in place after warming cases in the oven for 5 minutes; they dropped right in, no fuss whatsoever-

It's so much easier to drop the bottom lump in the isolastics at this stage and just build it up in place. Don't forget the rear allen screw!

Brewer · Dec 4, 2008

Hi GrandPaul,

I like the look of that front disc!
I am looking for a drill pattern..... or better still a sketch for a template to be used for drilling my original front disc.

Do you please have the dimensions for drilling a front disc to the same spec as that one in the pic.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Brewer.