Will's '75 Commando custom restoration
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D Rods
D rods were made by forging the little end in one go and the rest in another blow, thereby introducing a two stage forging process.
They have one or two 'd's stamped in a circle as part of the letterincode, like 123456 D, or sometimes D 123456 D.
They are believed to be inferior and prone to leaving the little end behind.
They were used on 850's after January 1974. Whether any 850's were made after this date without D rods I am unsure.
I have a 1973 (December) 850 that did not have them.
Les at Norvil refuses build an 850 using them...you can read his comments on the Norvil site, see 'tech talk'
Stu.
D rods were made by forging the little end in one go and the rest in another blow, thereby introducing a two stage forging process.
They have one or two 'd's stamped in a circle as part of the letterincode, like 123456 D, or sometimes D 123456 D.
They are believed to be inferior and prone to leaving the little end behind.
They were used on 850's after January 1974. Whether any 850's were made after this date without D rods I am unsure.
I have a 1973 (December) 850 that did not have them.
Les at Norvil refuses build an 850 using them...you can read his comments on the Norvil site, see 'tech talk'
Stu.
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- Jan 2, 2009
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d rods
D rods were manufactured in a two stage forging process, stamping the little end in one go and the big end in the next.
They are believed to be inferior, leaving the little end behind.
You can recognise them, they have a 'D' stamped in a little circle after and sometimes before the number, on the side of the rod.
They were used on 850's after Jan 1974. I don't know if they were used on all 850's after this date..My 1973 (December) 850 does not have them.
Les at Norvil refuses to build an 850 using them...you can read his comments on the Norvil site under 'tech talk'.
Big Stu.
D rods were manufactured in a two stage forging process, stamping the little end in one go and the big end in the next.
They are believed to be inferior, leaving the little end behind.
You can recognise them, they have a 'D' stamped in a little circle after and sometimes before the number, on the side of the rod.
They were used on 850's after Jan 1974. I don't know if they were used on all 850's after this date..My 1973 (December) 850 does not have them.
Les at Norvil refuses to build an 850 using them...you can read his comments on the Norvil site under 'tech talk'.
Big Stu.
grandpaul
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RennieK said:
Try this on for size: Dunstall GP tank-
It may be hard to see, as the bottom edge is in the shade; but this tank drops over an inch just ahead of the rear slanted downtubes that frame the oil tank on this side.
It's almost 6 gallons!
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I'm starting to think I have the same tank.
Mine has a trough going from the front of the gas cap toward the neck area (presumably to drain spillage or allow wind passage to evaporate same).
It has a long lip all around the bottom edge where the inner and outer shell join. This lip hangs down a good inch and more in places. Having built a number of fiberglass tanks I'm not sure why this lip is so long. I'm wondering if it helps the air flow to cool the engine. It will hide the top mounted coils which is fine with me. It could be they just wanted to ensure the join of the 2 shells would endure the rigours of racing.
Thanks for posting your photo, I'm starting to like this tank more and more. I've been thinking of going with the Norvil yellow for this bike but I really like the black with this big tank.
Mine has a trough going from the front of the gas cap toward the neck area (presumably to drain spillage or allow wind passage to evaporate same).
It has a long lip all around the bottom edge where the inner and outer shell join. This lip hangs down a good inch and more in places. Having built a number of fiberglass tanks I'm not sure why this lip is so long. I'm wondering if it helps the air flow to cool the engine. It will hide the top mounted coils which is fine with me. It could be they just wanted to ensure the join of the 2 shells would endure the rigours of racing.
Thanks for posting your photo, I'm starting to like this tank more and more. I've been thinking of going with the Norvil yellow for this bike but I really like the black with this big tank.
grandpaul
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But wait! That's not all!
I also have this one, in Maroon w/ Gold lining, and matching Dunstall 3/4 fairing-
One side of the fairing lower is chipped off about 4" on the end, but I'm thinking of trimming both sides equally. Right now it's just stuff on a shelf...
I also have this one, in Maroon w/ Gold lining, and matching Dunstall 3/4 fairing-
One side of the fairing lower is chipped off about 4" on the end, but I'm thinking of trimming both sides equally. Right now it's just stuff on a shelf...
grandpaul
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These were talked about somewhere before. I believe there was one actual fabricator, who contracted to Paul Dunstall, Gus Kuhn , and others. I'll backtrack and see if I can find that info. (should be in my Combat thread). Note the Dunstall has the deepest front section (like my Black one & Maroon one), about 1" deeper than the Kuhn model; otherwise, very similar.
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Nice looking setup there just waiting to make someone happy. I've had to repair my fairing as it was broken into 3 or 4 pieces. I'm thinking of adding a complete new layer of fiberglass on it to strengthen it a bit more. I may try to do a final salvage attempt on the dunstall tank at that time now that there are caswell type sealers available to seal from the inside. I'll definitely line this white tank before use.
grandpaul
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The "nickle / silver" frame is Krylon silver spray paint by the e-bay seller I got that frame from. The forks are dirt bike forks he bodged in with a piece of pipe for a yoke stem.
I bought it for the frame, swingarm & tranny cradle, with NEW adjustable Thomaselli clip-ons, all for $300 including shipping! Not a bad deal. I really ought to sell those forks and get 1/2 of my money back!
I bought it for the frame, swingarm & tranny cradle, with NEW adjustable Thomaselli clip-ons, all for $300 including shipping! Not a bad deal. I really ought to sell those forks and get 1/2 of my money back!
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grandpaul said:But wait! That's not all!
I also have this one, in Maroon w/ Gold lining, and matching Dunstall 3/4 fairing-
One side of the fairing lower is chipped off about 4" on the end, but I'm thinking of trimming both sides equally. Right now it's just stuff on a shelf...
That bike looks fast already,Hope to see the finished product soon 8)
grandpaul
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Nortasaki: don't hold your breath.
The frame is now powdercoated Black and has been converted to monoshock rear end using Kenny Dreer's only prototype monoshock swingarm built, front foks are Kawasaki 636 Upside-down units; that's the basis for my 880 build. (hey, Nortasaki, get it?)
Seat is installed on my '72 Combat, and that tank & fairing are sitting on the shelf for some other future project (maybe I'll convert my Interstate one of these days, if nothing else just for a weekend).
The frame is now powdercoated Black and has been converted to monoshock rear end using Kenny Dreer's only prototype monoshock swingarm built, front foks are Kawasaki 636 Upside-down units; that's the basis for my 880 build. (hey, Nortasaki, get it?)
Seat is installed on my '72 Combat, and that tank & fairing are sitting on the shelf for some other future project (maybe I'll convert my Interstate one of these days, if nothing else just for a weekend).
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