Why powder coating is for garden furniture...

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Fast Eddie said:
Or even better, not used f***ing powder coating at all!
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Quite ;)

My mountainbike is the only powdercoated frame I've ever been happy with (another product from those cunning Colorado folks!).
I got a new MkIIa battery carrier from Andover Norton a couple of years ago which wouldn't fit due to the thickness of the coating, and I couldn't even get the Dzus receptacle in the bracket. Deep frustration, solved by some very careful carving with a scalpel to reduce the thickness :(

The corrosion always gets in where fasteners interact with the surface, and it all looks OK until after a few months/years it starts falling off in sheets to reveal the full horror of what's been going on behind it.

My Seeley frame is polished bare metal, which quite a few folks leave as-is. Current 'best practice' seems to be clearcoating the bare metal as any fractures can still be spotted and remedied before they propagate too far.
Powdercoat would hide this rather well.
 
Nige has hit the nail on the head, the expectation these days seems to be that owners expect a cheap powder coat to resemble a quality painted surface. I often get asked what the price would be to get the item painted, the reply is usually 'Howww much!'' The original cradles and other items were most probably coated quickly with a thin coat. Strangely, the wheels are turning and some now want the same crap authentic finish as per the 70's, I get strange looks when asking for it, and then asked how could they do it.

Like an ethanol petrol proof coating I saw recently, basically, ''The cap leaked on a non standard tank and my ethanol proof coating is damaged'' It was apparently applied by a professional sprayer who recommended it. Err, can't be ethanol proof then. I checked with the US manufacturer of the coating, I sent them a photo of the owners tank asking - could they please explain and was it ethanol gas proof, reply was a single word - No. Checked with the UK supplier of the stuff, they also said it was not not suitable for ethanol petrol.
 
This thread enlightened me about why many nuts and bolts fell off of the T140 I recently acquired.
 
In my opinion, all of the above comments have merit.
One note: If you are powder coating a frame to a color other than black you may want to choose a powdercoat color that matches a readily available rattle can color. You're ready if touch up or modification is required. The race bike in my avatar was powdercoated to match Krylon bright red.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Firstly, it’s obviously not possible for the powder coating operative to know what needs masking off and what does not on every item he ever coats.
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As stated previously providing a visual guide is the best chance aside from being there when they do it. Written notes are useless.

Just print out the Old Britts instructions.

If this is also too hard for you then get the parts sandblasted and the tape it off yourself.
 
I like rattle can because it's just so simple to fix n repair. I've had one fancy molded & lacquer painted frame in my life....It did not take well to wrenching on the bike or pebbles...There was no ethanol back then to further complicate matters.
 
swooshdave said:
As stated previously providing a visual guide is the best chance aside from being there when they do it. Written notes are useless.

Just print out the Old Britts instructions.

If this is also too hard for you then get the parts sandblasted and the tape it off yourself.
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And as I stated previously, the coaters I’ve dealt with are incapable of keeping a hold of, let alone following, even my simple written notes.

Painters I’ve dealt with have been craftsmen, qualified, conscientious, trustworthy. Powdered coated I’ve dealt with seem more like machine operators, trained to press the button and none of the above. I think that is a big part of it.

As you say, I guess it’s just too hard for me Dave...
 
We have a selection of powdercoaters in the area, all capable of excellent results with little to no instructions. They see a lot of Commando frames and know exactly what to do.

Sorry it’s so tough there.

Because powder coating is by far used for industrial needs the bar for quality can be low. Stay away from any place like that.
 
The place I went in Front Royal was a DOD contractor and so he had the phosphoric dip before coating and he also blasted it before the process. But he was also very helpful in letting me do the masking, he was a rather small operation, maybe 10 people. He'd never seen a Norton, but had done some HD cylinders and wanted to do mine. No thanks on the cylinder. The other place I looked at in Manassas was more industrial and said they had done lots of HD's, but were in no interest to let me do any masking nor did they think it was necessary. I skipped on that one.
 
I totally and completely; absolutely and positively; as well as resolutely, not discreetly AGREE with everything FastEd said about powder coating - a solution (on vehicles) for which there was no problem. ;)
 
I had the last three bikes powder coated. If Im daft enough to do another it will be paint. Powder is done too thick appearance wise. It also get to be a
pain when it flakes off in big pieces. Suspect with a really good shop you will not have trouble but most are not that good overall.
Original paint was quite thin but it probably was filled with lead or other forbidden substances which made it durable.
 
Frankly, although I have personally painted frames (and tanks) on various bikes with auto enamel, auto acrylic lacquer, and Imron, my current Commando frame was rattle-can painted 'temporarily' over 10 years ago and it's still on there and looks fine. As noted, it's easy to apply and easy to repair. Frankly, on the Commando, it looks more OEM than fancier paints. Of course if you are specifically looking to have more of a "show finish," something else would be more appropriate - especially for bragging rights. "This finish is eight coats of hand-rubbed lacquer" sounds a lot better than, "I used a can of Rustoleum Gloss Black. :)
 
One frame I had done with p/c was OK -ish but I need to ground back for a battery earth point.

A pair of wheels where not done fully and had to de send back to cover the exposed metal.

Rattle can is OK on new metal, but flakes off when the rust from INSIDE the frame tube starts to come through- the only long term solution for me is stove enamelling – but metal needs to be dipped in rust killing Cyanide bath beforehand for long life, there are old British frames out there 50+ years old still on original frame paint.
 
I've always painted my bikes with acrylic lacquer because frankly that's the only paint I can work worth a damn, but the problem has always been the ease with which it chips.....I digress, but the hand rubbed lacquer thing got me for a second. At least the rattle can enamel doesn't react like that to ethanol.
It doesn't help that I was digging for my WW & BSF tool stash and found that sometime in the last 10 years or so the boys have jacked them, and now I must needs be purchase more. I need another large safe.
 
All the new paint on this is gas-proof polyurethane, except the silver, which is wheel paint. The black on the frame and ancillaries went on thin enough not to resemble powder and all the contact points, including the gearbox and rear axle sliding areas, were masked. The clear on the 'flake can be applied with enough coats to smooth the inevitable bumps.

Why powder coating is for garden furniture...
 
Why is powder coating the go to for industrial applications? Because of the EPA. No need for thermal oxidizers on the roof. No need for hazardous waste removal for clean up solvents and unused reduced and catalyzed paint. A great appearing finish for a bargain price.
Keep in mind that one great drawback of powder is it has relatively poor chemical adhesion to bare metal. So when you grind off that coating or there is any exposed bare metal (crack, gouge, etc.) rust and corrosion will easily spread beneath the polymer film and cause flaking. Premium powder applications will use a primer to improve adhesion, but most of the industrial coaters won't bother as they are more interested in a tough, attractive film rather than long life (planned obsolesence?).
I'm not proposing you don't powder coat your frames, that's your decision, you just should know the pros and cons of powder.
 
There is a restorer here that has done a lot of bikes over many years , when he does his own bikes , he always sprays them with 2 pac .
He says that it is the best option , but he won;t do customers bikes in it because of the health hazard .
 
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