Powder coating frame components

concours

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No question powder coat is durable. But, it jumps out at me 20' away, :shock: the extra thickness rounds the sharp corners, the weld beads, weld spatter and all the other period standard cues. My industrial roots are offended. :twisted: To others, it's smooooth look brings them joy, like "moulding" the frames on choppers using bondo back in the day. Not calling anyone's baby ugly, :oops: just another viewpoint. :mrgreen:
 
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Keep in mind proper "Grounding" so electrons go where they need to go. I have two separate grounding straps on my bike. One that goes directly from battery to engine and another from battery for all other wiring.
 
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My powder coater let me come into the shop after it was stripped and we applied the high temp plastic masking and hole plugs. Only thing I didn't get masked enough was around the brake mounting bolts on my early non-cush drive hub. I masked around all the engine mounts, the transmission mounts, the Z-plates, the brake drum sprocket. If I did it again, I'd mask off any parts where the rear wheel spindle mounts too and the brake cover plate. I also masked off the mounting for the L bracket for the coils because that's where my + lead goes from the battery. Forget the nuts and bolts, masking is the proper way the guy should have all sorts of circles and plugs plus larger pieces you can cut up as desired. I ended up not having to use any ground straps on my bike. I painted over the masked areas with black rustoleum enamel before assembly. Make sure you mask off enough where the swing arm attaches to the cradle too.

I also powder coated my tree and the front fender mount, but with silver instead of black. It looks fairly stock.

Dave
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Did you mask off the whole front fender or remove the mount? Those rivets look difficult to replace.
 

myron1950

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I have had very good results and long-term durability with powder coating on my Triumph and Norton.

However, things to remember:
  • High temp tape mask surfaces that may be in the series with fasteners. My powder coaters had plugs but as stated before you can place the old fasteners and washers in place prior to coating.
  • Any surface that cannot be masked but is in a fastener torqued path should be torqued and retorqued until loss of torque is absent. Years ago, I worked on a chassis assembly for an automotive engine mount. The engine mount was fastened to an assembly of several stamped e-coated brackets (e-coat adds thickness but not as much as PC). We checked a large sample of assembled vehicles after 24 hours and found a 45% average loss of torque. Not good. Eventually we redesigned the bracket but loss of torque due to coating thickness is always a concern.
  • I have used two-part rattle can paint where the hardener is released when you puncture an internal bladder in the can with a supplied tool. Good for 24 to 48 hours it coats nicely and so far, shows good durability. Also appears to be a much thinner coating. Available in black and silver, gloss and satin.
 

DogT

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Front fender? The fender (mudguard) is chrome. Maybe you're talking about the bridge which I think I painted, or the tree (the front tube holders)? I had the tree powder coated. Yeah, this thread is 6 years old, I can hardly remember it or hobot.
 
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