Why I don't powdercoat frames

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comnoz

comnoz

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Not that I don't like powdercoat. I powdercoat anything I can remove and re-powdercoat. It's fast cheap and easy.

But when I decide it's time to weld the brackets to the frame for the third link that has been laying on my shelf for several years, I can just mix a bit of polyurethane and use a jamb gun to blend it right in.

Why I don't powdercoat frames


I haven't ridden it yet to see if it makes a difference but I do know that if I grab the wheel with one hand and the frame with the other I can only flex the wheel about half as far as I could without the link. Jim
 
HO HO HO Jimbo, that half as much as prior but not all of it is the transformation trick the rest of the cycle world ain't discovered yet. Pay attention to another deeper layer removal of sense of vibration of a cycle under you. Helps with heavy cargo swaying effect on rough roads with hi speed semi truck wind blasts too. Not that size matters, long enough is long enough to get the job done w/o bind but just how long is your radius rod or rather eye centers span?
 
Completely understandable Comnoz. Your bike/s will never be "finished/complete" and will always be work in progress. From one year to the next it will morphe into something a bit different with the tech advances that are brewing in your head.. I'm sure all forum members here are happy about that and are inspired by your work..

I wouldnt mind betting that somebody can do a "touchup" or has a process to blend in a PC afterthought.. Hopefully somebody will share their expertise..

Mind you, by looking at your Avatar photo i wouldnt have thought that a weld blemish on frame way under there by the oil filter would stress you out too much... Shiney pristine concours bike/vehicle are fantastic to look at and admire..... but....!

Though i do agree that PC repairs are a PITA when mods and repairs are required..
 
comnoz said:
Not that I don't like powdercoat. I powdercoat anything I can remove and re-powdercoat. It's fast cheap and easy.

But when I decide it's time to weld the brackets to the frame for the third link that has been laying on my shelf for several years, I can just mix a bit of polyurethane and use a jamb gun to blend it right in.

Why I don't powdercoat frames


I haven't ridden it yet to see if it makes a difference but I do know that if I grab the wheel with one hand and the frame with the other I can only flex the wheel about half as far as I could without the link. Jim
Click to expand...

You gone back to the standard filter set up then Jim?
 
The link is long enough to go from the RH frame tube to the LH engine plate.

Why I don't powdercoat frames


The oil filter mounting position is stock. It is a base I made with 3 outlets and built to hold a common GM filter. It is still on the pressure side of the pump.

I have tried patching powder and cured it with a heat lamp. I never could get rid of the line between old and new.
I guess there are some new systems available that will allow better blending by using an AC charge that causes the new powder to adhere to the old.
There are also some wet powder systems that are applied from a spray gun like paint. I don't know how they would do. Jim
 
olChris said:
I'm sure all forum members here are happy about that and are inspired by your work..
Click to expand...
+1 from me.

comnoz said:
...I can just mix a bit of polyurethane and use a jamb gun to blend it right in.
Click to expand...
btw,when you say "Jamb Gun", this is what comes to mind:
Why I don't powdercoat frames

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_in ... cts_id=923
Pardon me; my Red Neck is showing...

Please keep us posted about how the lower link works for you!

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
olChris said:
I'm sure all forum members here are happy about that and are inspired by your work..
Click to expand...
+1 from me.


btw,when you say "Jamb Gun", this is what comes to mind:
Why I don't powdercoat frames

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_in ... cts_id=923
Pardon me; my Red Neck is showing...

Please keep us posted about how the lower link works for you!

Nathan
Click to expand...

Now that's a cool jamb gun in comparison to what body guys use to paint door jambs. I wonder if I could rig up something like that on my kickstand....
 
Jim,
How is your "lower front spring engine support thing" working out?

Vince
 
Unclviny said:
Jim,
How is your "lower front spring engine support thing" working out?

Vince
Click to expand...

It is working very well.

Now if I could just figure out how to do it on the rear iso to counteract the pull from the swingarm. Jim
 
How did you deal with the steel spring versus the Aluminum engine case? Are you going to be at the LOP's rally?

Vince
 
I built a stainless steel framed Egli for much the same reason. Since initial completion, there has been a need to add a couple of tangs here and there. Just tig weld on then a quick polish of the weld vs re plating the entire frame for traditional nickel plated.

I guess powder coating is almost like plating in this respect.

Glen
 
That looks to be an O2 sensor in the muffler bung, do you have a second one on the opposite side (I'm guessing it would be redundant)
 
Unclviny said:
How did you deal with the steel spring versus the Aluminum engine case? Are you going to be at the LOP's rally?

Vince
Click to expand...

I have a mount between the lower front iso to case bolts that holds the spring . I will be at the LOP rally. Jim
 
L.E.N. said:
That looks to be an O2 sensor in the muffler bung, do you have a second one on the opposite side (I'm guessing it would be redundant)
Click to expand...

Only one o2 sensor. The exhaust is two into one and back to two. Jim
 
I'll bring my camera to photograph that mount (unless you want to make and sell me a complete kit).

Vince
 
comnoz said:
The oil filter mounting position is stock. It is a base I made with 3 outlets and built to hold a common GM filter. It is still on the pressure side of the pump.
Click to expand...

Pressure side of the return scavenge pump?.................. or have you somehow routed the oil feed (pressure side) through the filter first?

If I recall correctly, a stock Commando oil filter takes the feed off of the scavenge return line prior to returning to the tank.
 
Unclviny said:
I'll bring my camera to photograph that mount (unless you want to make and sell me a complete kit).

Vince
Click to expand...

I will probably make up some kits eventually. They aren't at the top of my priority list yet though.

Actually I would like to design a new front mount that incorporates the spring and the tie rod link into one unit. Jim
 
worntorn said:
I built a stainless steel framed Egli for much the same reason. Since initial completion, there has been a need to add a couple of tangs here and there. Just tig weld on then a quick polish of the weld vs re plating the entire frame for traditional nickel plated.

I guess powder coating is almost like plating in this respect.

Glen
Click to expand...

I've heard of chrome-moly motorcycle frames - I have one myself, however not a stainless steel one. I usually just paint my frame, so if I beak it, I can easily repair it.
 
Btw ya can't use a regular unmodified center stand with this low down rump link. Something else to invent around comnoz for these rear links to appeal to most.
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
comnoz said:
The oil filter mounting position is stock. It is a base I made with 3 outlets and built to hold a common GM filter. It is still on the pressure side of the pump.
Click to expand...

Pressure side of the return scavenge pump?.................. or have you somehow routed the oil feed (pressure side) through the filter first?

If I recall correctly, a stock Commando oil filter takes the feed off of the scavenge return line prior to returning to the tank.
Click to expand...

My Commando is all stock. Just the way I built it.

The filter is on the pressure side of the supply pump. From the supply pump it goes to the filter where comes out in 3 lines, one to the crank, one to the head and one to the camshaft feed. Jim
 
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