Wheel Alignment

I'm pretty picky when it comes to having my wheels run in the same plane; I usually use the string method, but with the Mk III there is plenty of stuff under the machine that it makes the string method more than frustrating, unless you have an assistant, which I usually don't

I was thinking about the split axle and I was thinking that if I slacked the right side axle bolt so that it was finger loose and relaxed the adjuster, then went to the drive side and made the chain adjustment, then torqued the drive side, then torqued the right side and brought its adjuster up to a 1/4 turn or so past snug....

That my wheel alignment would have to be as true as it was designed to be.

Are my assumptions correct, or just another pipe dream?

RS

Hey Road, I have been working on my frame and noticed that one side (the axle slot) of the swing arm was bent in a few degrees too far. I was surprised at how easy it was to bend it back. That metal is ordinary mild steel.

Hi Guys,
Ive just religned my wheels after a rebuild & it goes round corners a lot better now & it does not try to pull to one side either anymore. I wrapped the string all the way round the bike so I could get the wheels exactly in the middle.
I still get a bit of Handlebar wobble it I hold the bars with one hand when going in a straight line but I think it did that the day I got it brand new in 1973.
Ive also fitted one of those dave taylor head steadies from RGM Motors in the UK & its a lot better than the old standard one on the pre 1973 models.
I would attach a photo of the bike if I knew how to do it. Maybe next time if anyone knows howv & which format to save it in, jpeg , Tiff, pdf etc.
Cheers all Don

RoadScholar said:

I was thinking about the split axle and I was thinking that if I slacked the right side axle bolt so that it was finger loose and relaxed the adjuster, then went to the drive side and made the chain adjustment, then torqued the drive side, then torqued the right side and brought its adjuster up to a 1/4 turn or so past snug....

That my wheel alignment would have to be as true as it was designed to be.

Are my assumptions correct, or just another pipe dream?

Click to expand...

If you were working with the knowledge that the left hand swingarm plate was exactly parallel to the frame, and the engine cradle was also exactly parallel to the line of the frame, then it would probably be close enough?

Otherwise...no.

Don Tovey said:

Hi Guys,
Ive just religned my wheels after a rebuild & it goes round corners a lot better now & it does not try to pull to one side either anymore. I wrapped the string all the way round the bike so I could get the wheels exactly in the middle.
I still get a bit of Handlebar wobble it I hold the bars with one hand when going in a straight line but I think it did that the day I got it brand new in 1973.
Ive also fitted one of those dave taylor head steadies from RGM Motors in the UK & its a lot better than the old standard one on the pre 1973 models.
I would attach a photo of the bike if I knew how to do it. Maybe next time if anyone knows howv & which format to save it in, jpeg , Tiff, pdf etc.
Cheers all Don

Click to expand...

Hey Don, search "post pictures" . There is an explanation on here that tells you how. It involves signing up to Photo Bucket(free). Your pics are stored there and the thing you learn to type in a post makes the pictures loade here when the post is viewed.

.

Thanks for all the considered responses, I forgot that the Norton has nothing in common with the Yamakawasuzy V-12, I guess that's why I like it so much...

Seriously, The Norton is all about judgement; judgement in assembly, judgement in tuning, judgement in maintenance and judgement in riding; how fast or how reliable you want to go today depends on how well you exercised your judgement this morning or yesterday...

RS