Fitting Mk 3 rear wheel

trident sam

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For anyone born without 3 hands this might be of some use to you. I fit mine by (bike on bench) putting the wheel into the swinging arm and jacking up the back of the bench with a small scissor dirt bike type lift until the hub centre lines up with the swinging arm holes, then pull the wheel onto the hub paddles , holding it on there and fit two 800mm cable ties through the spokes top and bottom and around the shock and silencer and pulling tight, this keeps the wheel in the correct position and fitting that damned caliper bracket and wheel spindle is made so much easier. I guess most of you have your own method , but this might help a new owner.
 
I just removed and mounted the rear wheel on my MK3. When I rebuilt my bike, I put the wheel on before the fender and caliper were on, and it was annoying but doable. When I went to remove the wheel the other day, I couldn't do it while it was on the center stand with the fender on; just couldn't get the wheel to clear the fender and swingarm even if I tilted it. As you mentioned, keeping the caliper out of the way just adds to the challenge. I didn't want to remove the fender since that has its own issues, so I ended up jacking up the rear of the bike high enough, as in very high, to get the wheel past the fender. When mounting the wheel, it was hard to get the spacer and caliper bracket in position to slide the axle in while holding the wheel on the hub paddles. I like your idea of first fixing the wheel in place, so you can concentrate on lining up the spacer and caliper bracket. My lift table and frame stand were occupied, but next time I'll use them to hold stabilize the bike and use your zip tie method.

If anyone has a way to do remove and mount a wheel while on the center stand with the rotor, fender, and caliper mounted to the bracket, I'd like to hear your technique. I can't imagine handing this over to a local modern motorcycle shop to get your tire changed... it's like a puzzle.
 
2WheelsUp said:
I just removed and mounted the rear wheel on my MK3. When I rebuilt my bike, I put the wheel on before the fender and caliper were on, and it was annoying but doable. When I went to remove the wheel the other day, I couldn't do it while it was on the center stand with the fender on; just couldn't get the wheel to clear the fender and swingarm even if I tilted it. As you mentioned, keeping the caliper out of the way just adds to the challenge. I didn't want to remove the fender since that has its own issues, so I ended up jacking up the rear of the bike high enough, as in very high, to get the wheel past the fender. When mounting the wheel, it was hard to get the spacer and caliper bracket in position to slide the axle in while holding the wheel on the hub paddles. I like your idea of first fixing the wheel in place, so you can concentrate on lining up the spacer and caliper bracket. My lift table and frame stand were occupied, but next time I'll use them to hold stabilize the bike and use your zip tie method.

If anyone has a way to do remove and mount a wheel while on the center stand with the rotor, fender, and caliper mounted to the bracket, I'd like to hear your technique. I can't imagine handing this over to a local modern motorcycle shop to get your tire changed... it's like a puzzle.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that the bike was on the centre stand on a 1" plywood board on the lift to gain more clearance, and also removed the shock absorber for more room.
 
L.A.B. said:
Click to expand...

Awesome, that was quick! Never thought to do that, where was my engineer brother, but ok then, he sure made it look easy. That said, think I'll get a helper to flip the wheel away while I tilt the bike. Would be a good AN Monday tech tip from Ashely. Thanks for sharing it!
 
2WheelsUp said:
That said, think I'll get a helper to flip the wheel away while I tilt the bike.
Click to expand...

If the side stand is extended and the steering turned to full right lock, the front brake held on with the left hand then both arms can be used to tilt the bike and the right hand can then be used to extract the wheel (left hand must hold the brake on at all times).

If the caliper plate clip '24' is missing...
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CLIP - REAR CALIPER SUPPORT - 06.6360

CLIP - REAR CALIPER SUPPORT
andover-norton.co.uk

...then wire or cord can be used to tie the caliper plate to the frame rail as it says in the manual.
 
FWIW I have always just removed the rotor from the hub first. 5 nuts with a air ratchet goes quickly. Yes more work, but makes the job easier and safer for me. With the rotor off, the wheel will slip out from under the fender without the acrobatic tilting of the bike.
Cheers
 
Back in my wrenching days, when fitting two new tires I would put the bike on the center stand, pull the front wheel, put the axle back in, take a ratchet strap hooked round the axle and the center stand to keep the center stand deployed, and then tilt the bike on its nose so it sits on the fork legs.

Then pull the rear wheel and do whatever to it. I would have added the zip ties round the spokes on reassembly if I'd though of it forty years ago. I still change rear wheels that way on various bikes even if I don't need to change the front tire.
 
L.A.B. said:
If the side stand is extended and the steering turned to full right lock, the front brake held on with the left hand then both arms can be used to tilt the bike and the right hand can then be used to extract the wheel (left hand must hold the brake on at all times).

If the caliper plate clip '24' is missing...
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CLIP - REAR CALIPER SUPPORT - 06.6360

CLIP - REAR CALIPER SUPPORT
andover-norton.co.uk

...then wire or cord can be used to tie the caliper plate to the frame rail as it says in the manual.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the video and description L.A.B.!
I will be pulling both wheels for new rotor installation soon, and that will be a good time for me to practice the technique!

I also am a firm believer in being able to patch a tire on the side of the road. It has saved me a few times already!

My wheels have those tire clamp like things that look a little like a valve stem, and hold your tire to the wheel. Those are new to me! I hope to understand them before I get a flat. Would you have any reference or links to information on them?

Thanks,
Ed
 

rim locks

what's the latest opinion on rim locks? for sunday bikes.
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

Rim lock (security bolt)

I’m getting ready to install a new rear tire and want to know if I can eliminate the rim lock. I’ve read that it really doesn’t do much. In the event that I do eliminate it, what do I fill the empty hole with? Thoughts, opinions?
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
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