Wet Sumping Poll

The dangers of wet sumping or lack of continues to be debated. So in the interest of science:


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Unfortunately the poll system at this forum is not brilliant. I dont see how to add that option. I just posted what Jim sent to me.
 
A reed valve at the bottom of your engine will return any wet sump-ed engine oil far quicker than your oil pump. It clears the cavity in approximately 30 seconds. The reed valve up high will not do this from a long sit. With the crank half full the oil, it will lubricate the cam the instant the engine is turning on its own and the reed valve as stated, down low, will prevent the cavity from over pressure. Ride your bike more often to avoid wet sump situations. I shake my head in wonder as one after another stories show up here with a connecting rod that lets go and punches through the bottom end from the use of a check valve that failed... and another one bites the dust.
T
 
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Hi
Conincidently I went out into my garage this afternoon and took the little sump plug out of the big one to let the oil in the cases drain into two plastic ice cream containers (eaten!).
As per the post above I'll pour it back into the oil tank a couple of days before I plan to ride it. I worry more about there being no oil in the line to the pump on kicking over and
during cold start up. I also worry about the oil in the cases causing a compression lock. Should I worry or just drink more beer? Hope you all had good a Christmass and filled a few stockings!
 
Hi
Conincidently I went out into my garage this afternoon and took the little sump plug out of the big one to let the oil in the cases drain into two plastic ice cream containers (eaten!).
As per the post above I'll pour it back into the oil tank a couple of days before I plan to ride it. I worry more about there being no oil in the line to the pump on kicking over and
during cold start up. I also worry about the oil in the cases causing a compression lock. Should I worry or just drink more beer? Hope you all had good a Christmass and filled a few stockings!
You mean you trust yourself to remember to put the oil back in? I must not have as many brain cells as you do. I drain just before I ride - or maybe the night before - and pour it back in immediately.
 
I would have to check more than one or three boxes in the poll and none of them cured the problem.
When I bought 'Pa', my trusty Norton new it wet sumped!
I worried about it, installed check valve, check valve failed, destroyed engine! Then I really had something to worry about.
I have since sent timing cover and pump to AMR for modification.
I don't worry about it any more because it doesn't wet sump at all.
Ride On(dry)
Dave
 
The PO of my rider installed both a reed valve, CNW type, and a scary shutoff. I leave the shutoff open all the time and eventually will remove it. I check the oil in the tank before riding. If it's very low and the bike has sat a long time, I drain the sump and put fresh oil in the tank. If it's just a little low, I start it up and make sure the oil is returning and the level is good.
 
There isn't a button for me either, that I can see. Of course my Commando wet-sumps. I have a check valve in the engine breather. I have had to replace the oil seal on the drive side end of the crank because it's blown out. But bugger all oil has come out that way. I know because I run a dry belt primary, and there's never more than bugger all oil in there. Anyway I don't like draining oil from the engine to use that oil again, because the sump's usually covered in crud and I don't have a nice, clean garage floor to lie on while I'm doing it – for me it would be a real palaver. So my routine is to check the oil in the tank, start the engine, and watch the oil return until I see bubbles. Then I ride it. The only time I do otherwise is when I've ridden the bike in the previous two or three days. If someone in the UK did the AMR job I'd have gone that way by now. Oh, and if I could afford it. Not right now. HTH
 
How about an option ..... I know it wet sumps but before starting, I look around to see there are no HD or Honda guys around who will laugh at all the smoke?

Slick
 
In my experience, wet sumping doesn't cause smoke. Lately there's something else that does, but I haven't found out what yet. And, also in my experience, the days are long gone when I'd get anything other than positive responses from anyone who's the slightest bit interested in bikes.
 
Wet sumping means mine is a bit more difficult to kick over if it's been parked for a while (which is nearly every time...). I just accept it.
By the time it's warmed up and I'm togged up I know the tank will be up to the level - I stopped checking a few years ago.
I've never heard of a catastrophic engine failure due to wet sumping, but plenty of anecdotes about the grim results of failed or forgotten check valves
 
Wet sumping means mine is a bit more difficult to kick over if it's been parked for a while (which is nearly every time...). I just accept it.
By the time it's warmed up and I'm togged up I know the tank will be up to the level - I stopped checking a few years ago.
I've never heard of a catastrophic engine failure due to wet sumping, but plenty of anecdotes about the grim results of failed or forgotten check valves


Yet you see people on this forum advocating the use of some sort of inline valve shutting off oil flow to the oil pump.. I hope the uninitiated newbie knows enough to disregard such poor advice.
 
If I haven't ridden or started the bike in quite a while, I check the oil tank level with a flashlight. If the oil level is still above the feed line screen, I start the bike. If it's below the screen I drain the sump and dump the oil back into the tank. IMO the solutions for wet-sumping belong under those "solutions for which there are no problems." ;)
 
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