- Jun 30, 2012
Thanks for that. I will try to find something the same thickness as the scales and put it under the opposite end wheel as I use the scales. I'm surprised that your bike weighs more in the rear than in the front. When I built the Seeley 850, I tried to keep the weight forward as much as possible. When I had my Triton, moving the motor forward an inch until the mounts touched, made a significant improvement to the handling. It felt much more positive.acotrel
If I put the electronic scales under the front and rear wheels separately, how can I calculate the total weight of the bike ?
Just weigh both ends sepatately then add the total. You can also divide each end into the total as a percentage to get the weight distribution, in my case:
front 102.6 ÷ 219% = 46.85%
rear 116.4 ÷ 219% = 53.15%
It,s best to have the bike on the same level as the scales if you don,t have a hoist scale like worntorn.
At home I have a footpath with a step that is the same height as my electronic scales but the work scales are just about level with the floor and will take the complete bike to confirm the total weight.
Two of us lightly supported the bike each side vertically for accurate readouts.
you are right more like 35 - 50lb between the often quoted 415-430 lb range, mainly e start, rear disc, cush drive,and footpeg/ rear master cylinder assemblies possibly.
You,ve done well to get down to 438lbs with a near stock Mk3, mine is 32lbs lighter than originally but alot of unseen/alloy bits substituted to get that.
Could lose possibly another 17lb with alloy barrels, fork yokes, mudguards and custom seat but alot of cost and I like the bike as it is in function and looks.
Just lost 4.5kg to get back to my normal 89kg, much cheaper.
I,m also around 130 starts into a 2500+ mile tour using an $18 Chinese sprag, will update on your post about these when I get back to the UK.