Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.

Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.


Up top is a pic of the top yoke I made, and below is once the tach mount got added.

The speedo is a cordless cyclo computer, but the spark plug wires seem to interfere above about 60mph, so I had to go with a corded version. Keeping track of speed wasn't a biggie, but keeping track of mileage was much harder, and timing fuel stops became a little dodgy.

Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.


Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.


Vented cover for the Newby belt drive. Probably not needed, but it does get hot without the vents.
 
No. The rust always creeps in. Also, brazing is my job. I get plenty of it at work. I don't need to look at it elsewhere.

I agree on the megas. I'm going through options now. Advice? I had some Dunstall Decibles that I sold a couple years ago that I now regret not trying.

The new 750 motor has the 9989 exhaust cam, and the 3134 intake. Also, it's now a 750, so I'm interested in what's going to change and what's going to stay the same as when it was a 650. The carbs are supposed to run unchanged which is hard to believe, but maybe the exhaust will also be unchanged?
Sorry, did I read this right . . . Brazing?
Tell me is the frame brazed or SIF bronze welded?
 
Sorry, did I read this right . . . Brazing?
Tell me is the frame brazed or SIF bronze welded?
The two are interchangeable. Fillet brazing is SIF bronze welding. You'll try and say otherwise, I'm sure.

There are those that will tell you you're wrong for calling GTAW welding "TIG welding", but nobody really likes those people.
 
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The two are interchangable. Fillet brazing is SIF bronze welding. You'll try and say otherwise, I'm sure.
Yes ............,, but ordinary brazing is at lower temperatures to SIF SIF bronze welded parts.
Brazing is NOT recommended for stressed parts like the frame joints, don't ask me how I know.
 
Yes ............,, but ordinary brazing is at lower temperatures to SIF SIF bronze welded parts.
Brazing is NOT recommended for stressed parts like the frame joints, don't ask me how I know.
Well, I can't say how you control your heat, so your work is your work. There is no such thing as "ordinary brazing", but perhaps you mean "sweat brazing". You may have used an incorrect application of an alloy or technique if you experienced a failure. A correct alloy or technique will generally be stronger than the tube used.

"Brazing" can be used to describe, fillet brazing, hearth brazing, and sweat brazing, amongst others.

There are several alloys of brass (used colloquially) or bronze, maybe four or five silver brazing alloys, nickle silver alloy, amongst others. That's before we start counting name-brand proprietary alloys.

I use the same brass or bronze alloys for both fillet brazing and sweat brazing. The strength of the joint is in overlap or fillet size, before we start in on an HAZ variable.
 
Would you know/remember the bearing dimensions & type used for the gl1000 goldwing yokes? Any other mods required?

I believe gl1000 would size the forks at 37mm.

Not sure if covered, gl1000 master cylinder?

Here's a fork diameter chart as one way to go about finding a suitable shorter set.
 
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One of the improvements over the years was a necessary upgrade to a cush somewhere in the drive line. I found the Newby belt and clutch to be a top notch piece of kit, but with the big jumps of a standard 4 speed 'box, the rigors were maybe a bit too much. I wallowed out the spines on the engine aluminum pulley, so it just wouldn't stay tight. As much as the conical hub is supposedly the part to fit on a Triton, I decided to replace it with a hub from a Suzuki GT550. It has a really simple and effective cush, is readily available, and the hub shell has the same ribbing as the front GL1000 hub.

I converted two hubs, one for the Triton and one for an upcoming Dominator project. The Suzuki chainline is outboard of the Triumph and Norton, but the cush plate is pretty thick and is easy to thin in the lathe for a more inboard chainline, so that's what I did in addition to fitting a larger OD bearing for the larger diameter axle on the Triton.
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Same bearing for the hub shell. The bearing tower has a pretty generous wall, and the bearing wasn't much larger, so no biggie. I hope.

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Larger axle hole in the brake plate.

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A handful of 4140 steel spacers.

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All polished or powdered.

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I got some custom cables from Venhill with an m6 threaded rod pressed onto the one end of the cable and had to route the cable from the drive side rear set to the timing side brake, which is a bit more complicated than the rod scenario of the conical, but not really a big problem. A tab for the torque stay had to be brazed onto the swingarm as well.

So far the hub has worked really well. Bearings still smooth, no cracks in the shell, etc. The brakes work way better than the conical. The one thing that is noticeable is the stiffness of the wheel is much less than the conical. The spoke flanges are much closer together than the conical, thus, it is more axially flexible. I've gotten used to it, but at first I kept thinking my rear tire was going flat.

Once I added the cush to the driveline, and thinned the engine pulley by .060" (the smaller diameter part that rests against the splined end of the crank (I'm not sure what you'd even call that -- the nose?), and replaced it with a .060" washer to get a good amount of torque on the rotor nut without the steel crank's splines digging into the pulley, no more belt drama, and smoother power delivery to the wheel.

The available gearing for the Suzuki hubs is in a spread that is smaller in size than for the Triumph hub, so I recently geared down to a 43:17. It's pretty dang close to the 46:18 I ran previously, and both prime numbers, so should last quite a bit longer as well. I haven't used it yet, so we'll see what I think of the gearing. If it doesn't work to my liking, I might just go back to the larger sprockets, using another type and making some type of aluminum carrier. Those big steel wheel sprockets are heavy!

I took the opportunity to change to a 520 x-ring chain, but there are no 520 Triumph countershaft sprockets, so I had to grind one down. No pics of that. Not terribly fun, but very dirty. I did re-harden it and lit my can of quench oil on fire. That was pretty fun. Glad I did it outside.
 
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Would you know/remember the bearing dimensions & type used for the gl1000 goldwing yokes? Any other mods required?

I believe gl1000 would size the forks at 37mm.

Not sure if covered, gl1000 master cylinder?

Here's a fork diameter chart as one way to go about finding a suitable shorter set.
I don't remember the bearings, but they were stock tapered rollers from All Balls.

Yes. 37mm. I thought a bit of a better match for twin four pot brakes. I used a Brembo MC that matched the brakes. 5/8" maybe? It was a while ago. I have it all written down somewhere if you need the info, I can dig it out. You can get some nice emulators from a couple/few companies that bolt right in. The Racetech Gold ones are orderable to a custom length. The down side to the GL forks is they have no lower bushing, so the fork tube is wearing against the inside of the lower. The lowers are very plentiful and cheap though! The early forks (75-77 [pre-comstar]) are about an inch shorter than the later ones. They have the right height for a featherbed, if the tubes are slid up in the yokes and is right at the right amount of travel, so there's no shortened-travel monkey business to get it to sit right. I recently removed a couple inches off the top, and shortened the springs, and it looks much better. Short Roadholders are just so much shorter than just about anything else, there's just not that many options to pick from.

The head tube on the GL is about an inch longer, so I machined down the stem as the wall was pretty thick. It's a stepped thread (M24x1 and M22x1 I think) with a space for the top yoke between and the minor dimension of the larger thread was just slightly larger than the major dim of the smaller thread. In one of the above pics you can see about an inch of the stem sticking up above the top yoke that I hadn't cut off yet. I used the stock GL bearing adjustment cup and dust shield that was the perfect size to fit over the top of the Norton head tube. There may have been an extra washer in there somewhere though. If you're thinking of doing this, I still have the 24 and 22 dies. I couldn't get my lathe to sync up to the fine thread. I wrecked two lower yokes before I just bought the dies. You'd be welcome to borrow them.

Here's a pic of the stock and successfully completed rethreading with the m22 threads left long.

Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.
 
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I am not a tool room boy so anybody can impress me with lathe and Bridgeport work. But photography is something I do know about and your pix are nice doing a good job illustrating what you are discussing whilst being eye catching.
Great thread.
 
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