Viewer Discretion Advised. Or, A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted.

I know Peter well. As well as you can really know Peter, anyway. He is a very book smart guy, but we have differing opinions on a lot of things.

Here in town is Fox Racing Shox, and being in the same industry as a healthy percentage of that organization with access and advice to the engineers and race techs for both bicycle and motorsport, the most valuable thing I've gleaned from them is that there is no bottom to the rabbit hole and it can always be (perceived as [?]) better. In my professional interactions with them, I realize that the things they lay awake at night about, I can't feel when push comes to shove. When it's pointed out to me, I sometimes can, but most of the time, there's a lot of "huh...ok" coming from me.

I feel like there was a real tipping point for the better when I installed the Racetech parts, and all the other fussing (oil changes, spring pressure on the shim stack, spring preload, etc) has gotten more and more marginal results for the amount of time spent. The chassis quickly becomes the weak link and it seems suspended weight and bushing bind is going to be much more of a factor than the 15th time I massage the shim stack. As is, I generally ride by myself or with folks on new bikes, and I do just fine and rarely feel my bike is holding me back. Almost always me. And I'd much rather go ride than stand at the mill or lathe trying to eek out the last of my 70 year old bike. That's just me though.
 
Awesome response. Thank you.

It's hard to learn all this stuff by myself by just research, riding, and testing. It's nice to have people around who go down those rabbit holes for you. You get to learn which paths are a waste of time without going down each of them yourself.... 😏 I still feel like I could do better if I had a real suspension expert to ask a series of questions.
 
I still feel like I could do better if I had a real suspension expert to ask a series of questions.
Modern, cutting edge suspension has left shim stacks for real-time variable valve stiffness, inertia valves, and tuned mass dampers. Modern mountain bikes have as advanced as anything else (available to the consumer) out there, and the chassis stiffness and friction is a big limiter. New dampers can only be capitalized on with better chassis design. Your damping valve can be super reactive, but if the shaft and seals it's running on can't stay concentric and parallel with the fork tubes, it doesn't matter, and that's not even taking into account bushing bind. As a total non-expert, I'd think if you want much better performance than the work you've done, look at replacing the 75 year old tech in the Roadholder chassis.

I rode my buddy's Ducati 1100 Supermotard again the other day, and there's just no way to get from this Point A to that Point B.

Peter loves nothing more than nerding out. Contact him!
 
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One of the things that spurred my action on this project was my giving up of road bicycling. I am in the business of making custom bicycles under the Black Cat Bicycles banner, and road riding has been a huge part of my life, but I had gone to the Emergency Room 4 times in five years, each with increasing drama and injuries, so I decided to hang up that helmet for good, or until I move somewhere where cyclists aren't treated as an inconvenience, to be battered for fun.

Road bicycles have never had great brakes, until disc brakes came around. I had gotten so used to brakes that really work with one finger that I just can't go back to "planning ahead", especially with the aggressive driving these days on the tiny roads where I live and ride. I had also gotten quite good at Honda forks over the years, so I added forks from a GL1000 and brakes from a mid-90s Ducati. Milled up some adapters, and we're off to the races!

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Anyone who's been sucked into one these projects knows how many small projects there are, just to bolt stuff together. It's limitless.

Things are starting to come together though!

Nice fabrication work sir !
The tacho from the first Suzuki RG250, is a dead ringer for the ones which were used on Italian racers of the 1950s.
 
The position of the motor in the frame determines how fast the bike can be ridden around corners. It needs to be as far forward as possible.
 
I purchased the plates from Dave Degens. He's built a Triton or two, so I reckon he knows where to put the motor.
You have more than the required skills to make a set of plates yourself. So I assume you bought them precisely in order to buy Dave’s knowledge with regards to positioning etc ?
 
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