valve spring removal tool...brilliant!!!! (2005)

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ludwig said:
???..
I bet I can change both valve seals before you even have taken off your air filter , carbs , headsteady , oil line , exhausts ..
and spend the money for the head gasket on a few beers , watching you struggle with those slippery pushrods ..

(but I promise : I won't take advantage of your bent over position ..)
There is no doubt that what you say is true except possibly the bent over part. I have not done this and still don't really see it all the way through in my mind, but as I stated above "you" seem to have a very nice tool to perform this task and I am not speaking of the bent over part either. Being a novice I am always trying to improve what little mechanical skill I have and understand others views on maintaining their norton's. If anyone does this again make a video, I'd love to watch and again I am not speaking about the bent over part..... :wink:
 
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Reactivate!

Anyone got a picture of the referenced spring tool? I have several for auto engines and am quite familiar with the procedure but a picture of the necessary tool will keep me from inventing one :D
 

click

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JimNH said:
Reactivate!

Anyone got a picture of the referenced spring tool? I have several for auto engines and am quite familiar with the procedure but a picture of the necessary tool will keep me from inventing one :D

Hi Jim,

I've sent you an email, I have a PDF I can send to you with pictures & instructions on how to build & use a VSR tool. A forum member sent this to me (sorry for who it was :oops: ) the pictures, I believe, are from Ludwig as was the original idea.

I built & used the tool & it works!!

Kevin
 
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Is there any way to post it so it stays available in a permanent fashion?

Jean
 

DogT

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I'm assuming Jean means the lidwig tool picture, I'd like to see it too, I missed that one, I have most of his others.
 

Tornado

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This thread seems a good place to keep all the valve spring compression tool methods. The rocker plate mod method seems a pretty nice one to try, combined with Ludwig's method for holding valve up and releasing the rocker by using a temporary thin rod in place of the spindle. Attaching Ludwig's photo tutorial PDF....
 

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click

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I've used Ludwig's method to check & replace the valve oil seal BUT ensure you stuff plenty of rags down the pushrod tunnels!! I didn't and on my third attempt replacing a seal I lost one of the collets down the tunnel.

2 days later, using magnetic probes, suction etc. etc. I had to bite the bullet & remove the head!!!
 

Tornado

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I'm researching this as noted white/grey smoke from Left side pipe when blipping throttle from idle on a fully warmed engine. I suspect it's the 44+ year old rubber seal on intake valve.
 
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If the seals are really 44 years old then everything there is 44 years old. Maybe time to take a look at everything by removing the head.
 

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Because there is still some interest , I will post pics of the compression tool and valve stop .

Last time ! :









Slot and chamfer indicates orientation of the lip .
You'll also need a 12 mm rod to temporarily replace the rocker shaft .

click :
to drop the collars in the pushrod tubes while working on the inlet , you really have to try ..
I know, I tried REALLY hard!! I just heard a pling, pling, plonk
 

Tornado

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Ludwig: I've read your photo tutorial closely but I am not clear on what is done to make the threaded bolt/rod going into the rocker in place of the adjuster bolt. Your picture shows a longer, rhinner threaded section then a wider one. How is that made?
 

Tornado

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If the seals are really 44 years old then everything there is 44 years old. Maybe time to take a look at everything by removing the head.
Yes, I've been seriously considering that as a better option. Bike only had 8300 miles on original clock when I acquired it 10 months ago. and I've now put 3000 miles on it before the smoke appeared. Watched a YouTube of a guy doing the head pull/replacement on a 750. He had decades of motorcycle work experience but not vintage brits. He really struggled with the refit single handed.
 

Tornado

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Well, my efforts to secure a full thread M7 bolt of suitable length for Ludwig's tool (50-60mm) have fallen flat. No local fastener specialist carries M7. Ones I can find online are hugely $$$ to ship $0.85 bolt and $25 shipping) or 1.5 months to arrive from China.
So, I'm going with the alternative tool depicted top of this thread, making a flat plate and using rocker adjuster to thread plate to rocker arm, then compress spring with two bolts through the plate.
 

Deets55

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Well, my efforts to secure a full thread M7 bolt of suitable length for Ludwig's tool (50-60mm) have fallen flat. No local fastener specialist carries M7. Ones I can find online are hugely $$$ to ship $0.85 bolt and $25 shipping) or 1.5 months to arrive from China.
So, I'm going with the alternative tool depicted top of this thread, making a flat plate and using rocker adjuster to thread plate to rocker arm, then compress spring with two bolts through the plate.
Did you look for a piece of all- thread (threaded rod) instead of a long bolt?
Pete
 

Tornado

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Did you look for a piece of all- thread (threaded rod) instead of a long bolt?
Pete
Yup...local fastener specialist stated M7 not a standard and had nothing. Local hardware shops, no M7 bolts and only SAE all thread.
I do see M7 in use for bicycle fittings online, but these are typically under 15 mm long.
@ludwig shows in his pdf tutorial a long bolt/all thread cobbled to a stock adjuster to achieve the rocker. Connection, but no details given as to how those to pieces were attached and I do not have a spare adjuster to sacrifice.

I made up a plate setup that seems be working well, no need for long M7 as it uses the adjuster nut and stud to hold plate to rocker. I need to go pick up some better material 1/4" side bolts for it. The soft metal ones I tested with are deforming a bit.
 
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Tornado :
you do not really need M 7 .
I only suggested it as an alternative .
I know M7x1 is not very common in your part of the world , but neither is the correct ( 9/32 BSF ? ) thread .
You can cut the thread 26 TPI , or 1 mm .. ( die , lathe ..) drill and tap an old adjuster bolt , or any odd bolt that fits , weld an extention ... many ways to skin a cat .

use your imagination .


M5 rod , threaded in old adjuster .
 
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Tornado

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Thx Ludwig. Unfortunately I don't have required taps/dies and no access to lathe or welder so I'm proceeding with the alternative tool using a plate bolted to top of rocker head via the adjuster. Seems to be doing the trick but I need to fetch a few more things before completely doing the job.

New Kibblewhite Viton seals on the way.
 
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FWIW, (and admittedly, not much), I just don't see the point in replacing valve seals without pulling the head, checking valves guides and valves and re-seating/lapping the valves at minimum.

I just don't see it as that much work but again, that's just me...
 
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