Intake valve spring removal

I recently bought a valve spring compressor (basic C-clamp type, w/ varying sized spring retainer adapters), this worked OK for the exhaust valve spring retainers, but I can't make it work for the intakes - the largest adapter is still too small (30mm) and the threaded rods are not long enough (and the C-clamp is bending)... Net result is spring doesn't compress, and keepers don't get exposed enough to release the spring. Has anyone found a better way?

Note: Rockers already out.

Thanks!

-kjo

Can yoy add a socket or nut or something as a spacer on the face of the valve to give you a different range of movement.

Of course it goes without saying that great care must be taken especially as you say the compressor is flexing (not uncommon mine does to but i only use it couple of times in 10 years). Use needle nose pliers small screw driver etc. NOT FINGERS

Thanks - yes, trying to do that - just need to find the right dimensions to 'fit' the application. Any 'spacer' needs to go above adapter as a socket would effectively block/cover access to the 'keepers, which once loose can be scooped out with a magnet. If I had a drill press it would be easy, but that falls into the 'If I Had" category, not the real world LOL

If the C-clamp were steel it would have worked, but the aluminum is too weak to retain shape under strain. Note - the cheapo eBay compression tools are worth exactly what you pay for them...

-kjo

Even a steel one will bend. When under tension a rap with a hammer usually breaks the retainers free

triumph2 said:

Even a steel one will bend. When under tension a rap with a hammer usually breaks the retainers free

Click to expand...

+1
A little oil on the retainers. Place a deep socket on the collar and give it a smack. That will break the seal and allow the compressor to do its job.
Pete

bostonkevino said:

'spacer' needs to go above adapter as a socket would effectively block/cover access to the 'keepers,
-kjo

Click to expand...

I ment put the item you choose to use as a "spacer" on the combustion chamber side of the valve. So it doesn't get in the way.

In the old days I used to put the head on a baseball in the combustion chamber. Then smack the spring with a deep socket and plastic mallet.
I no longer use this method because often the keeper would get jammed against the valve stem and dent it. A second or third hit would finish the job. Now I use this method only if I'm going to junk the valves. Assembly with one of two conventional springs tools were marginal as you all know....

Now I will use a 3 ton arbor press with a deep throat and 12-1/2" under ram. I am currently setting it up and making the tooling since I have a back log of half a dozen norton heads and my Lotus Elan head. Clean straight line push with incredible ease and control.