Valve adjustment tips for a first timer needed

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Coco

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I've never adjusted valves before. After my first break in I need to retorque the head and adjust the valves. I've never done a valve adjustment before. I bought my MKIII, rode it for a month then tore it apart for the resto so I never got around to doing an adjustment before until now. I'm not even sure what to retorque the head bolts to. I know some torque specs are off or too much in the manual.

To be honest, I'm not even sure what to adjust the valves to. I've got the proper tool and just need the knowledge. Any help would be appreciated since I want to tackle this tonight so I can start her up and go for a my first 50 mile ride on the resto tomorrow.

I'm excited, happy, anxious and revved up to take the MKIII out for a ride.

I hope the brakes work. :wink:
 
Coco said:
I've never adjusted valves before. After my first break in I need to retorque the head and adjust the valves. I've never done a valve adjustment before. I bought my MKIII, rode it for a month then tore it apart for the resto so I never got around to doing an adjustment before until now. I'm not even sure what to retorque the head bolts to. I know some torque specs are off or too much in the manual.

To be honest, I'm not even sure what to adjust the valves to. I've got the proper tool and just need the knowledge. Any help would be appreciated since I want to tackle this tonight so I can start her up and go for a my first 50 mile ride on the resto tomorrow.

I'm excited, happy, anxious and revved up to take the MKIII out for a ride.

I hope the brakes work. :wink:
Click to expand...

It's not that big of a deal. Retorque head and then check clearances per the manual.
 
swooshdave said:
Coco said:
I've never adjusted valves before. After my first break in I need to retorque the head and adjust the valves. I've never done a valve adjustment before. I bought my MKIII, rode it for a month then tore it apart for the resto so I never got around to doing an adjustment before until now. I'm not even sure what to retorque the head bolts to. I know some torque specs are off or too much in the manual.

To be honest, I'm not even sure what to adjust the valves to. I've got the proper tool and just need the knowledge. Any help would be appreciated since I want to tackle this tonight so I can start her up and go for a my first 50 mile ride on the resto tomorrow.

I'm excited, happy, anxious and revved up to take the MKIII out for a ride.

I hope the brakes work. :wink:
Click to expand...

It's not that big of a deal. Retorque head and then check clearances per the manual.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. I figured as much but figured I'd check since sometimes the manual is not always correct.
 
Coco said:
Thanks Dave. I figured as much but figured I'd check since sometimes the manual is not always correct.
Click to expand...

Have you ever adjusted valves on anything?
 
swooshdave said:
Have you ever adjusted valves on anything?
Click to expand...

Nope, never. Being the smart guy that I am, I bought my very first motorcyle (the MKIII) and decided to do a complete restoration after a month of riding it. 8)

I was riding a beat down and borrowed XS 650 until last summer so I never adjusted anything on that death trap.

I'm sure a valve adjustment is not overly difficult. Sometimes I like to check here on any tips or tricks that will make it easier, that's all.
 
I have a different than stock cam. I just got ahold of CNW about proper lash since I just remembered my cam is different. I need to adjust lash to .006 for both intake and exhaust. I think stock is .008.

Good thing I started this thread as I would not have remembered about my cam being different.
 
Are you sure about the clearance? For any vehicle/engine with solid lifters It is very unusual for int and exh lash to be the same. Oem is .006 for int and .008 for exh. Seems odd that .006 would be suitable for both. But if that's what the cam-supplier said, I guess (hope) they know what they're doing.
 
Mike,

All Norton race cams had the same clearances on inlet and exh. e.g. 4S, 3S
 
I think what Coco is saying, very humbly, if I may add, is that his very fresh CNW Norton is getting its very first owner service (a CNW engine, at least); which I applaud. The 6 & 6 valve lash settings line up well with Web Cams 12 and 12a offerings which Matt had pointed me to as an alternative to loud high acceleration alternatives, such as the 2S Combat cam.

If I am right about this being a very fresh CNW Norton (or engine), your level of questioning would lead me to suggest that you find someone who has actually done many valve adjustments on older British iron, preferably Norton and have him/her show you the basics; has the right tools that won't f&%k-up your hand polished fasteners; never mind ruin your fresh engine...

If I'm wrong, please accept my apologies, drive fast and take chances..

RS
 
I have good luck using the stock torque specs for the head gasket. You may have to retorque it several times to get it right. I use a combination box wrench on the rear nut and the ones under the exhaust ports. With my wrench and torque wrench I have to reduce the indicated torque by 25% to get closer to the correct value at the nut (6" long wrench, 18" long beam). It's not perfect, but it seems better than just doing it by feel.

Greg
 
A tip worth remembering is that one turn of the rocker adjuster screw = 0.040" and a 1/4 turn is therefore 0.010" which is about where you need to be. This method is useful when the valve stem tip is indented and the feeler gauge can't compensate for that.

Mick
 
I find that it helps on the valve adjustment to remove the tank. Do the basic instructions in the manual on determining if the valves are in proper position make sense? If not report back for further details!

Of course by now it is 10:00 P.M. in Saskatoon and it might be a six pack too late to work on it if you haven't already done it!
Russ
 
There is another thread on valve adjustments in the other "general" section, worth a quick look.
 
ah so Coco, CNW as first cycle, oh ok, I didn't know nothing either in '99.
You can go by guess and by golly but each cam has a recommend setting for In/Ex.
Every cam vendor provides this in their sales spec charts.
So unless you need to determine best gap in you special set up,
Ask CNW what was installed and what to set it too.
Too tight is damaging and too loose too noisy and then damaging.

Imprint those turns out for gap created as long needed shop gem.

I'm going to try going by ear next time on hot engine and learn
me something new. Works for ole Chevy's push rods.

hobot
 
RoadScholar said:
I think what Coco is saying, very humbly, if I may add, is that his very fresh CNW Norton is getting its very first owner service (a CNW engine, at least); which I applaud. The 6 & 6 valve lash settings line up well with Web Cams 12 and 12a offerings which Matt had pointed me to as an alternative to loud high acceleration alternatives, such as the 2S Combat cam.

If I am right about this being a very fresh CNW Norton (or engine), your level of questioning would lead me to suggest that you find someone who has actually done many valve adjustments on older British iron, preferably Norton and have him/her show you the basics; has the right tools that won't f&%k-up your hand polished fasteners; never mind ruin your fresh engine...

If I'm wrong, please accept my apologies, drive fast and take chances..

RS
Click to expand...

Yes, CNW did rebuild the motor for me and this is the first valve adjustment and retorque for head bolts.
 
Thanks for the tips and suggestions guys, it should make things go a bit quicker. That's why I love this place.

Tank will removed and I'll make sure not to over tighten the lock nuts on the adjusters (thanks for that tip Ludwig).
 
Tips -

Yes, remove the fuel tank and the spark plugs.

Judging clearance with a feeler gage is an art. Keep the gage blade straight, not bent. Correct feel is when the gage drags, but is not pinched. When you tighten the lock nut the setting will change, so snug the nut finger tight before making the final tweak on the adjuster. Leave the gage in place while tightening the lock nut.

Double check after tightening - the .006 gage should still go through, a .007 should not. It'll take you a couple of tries to get it right the first time you do this.

The shop manual describes the procedure well. Left side exhaust is set when the right side exhaust valve is all the way down. The same applies to intakes.

Go for it.
 
maylar said:
Double check after tightening - the .006 gage should still go through, a .007 should not.
Go for it.
Click to expand...

It has been my experience that with a nice film of oil on everything, including my gauges, that I can still get the .007 in there, the difference is that it is no longer a friction fit. You have to feel when you are using the gauge to compress the spring a tiny bit. "Go-No Go" becomes a function of how much force you can exert on a very thin strip of metal!
 
"All Norton race cams had the same clearances on inlet and exh. e.g. 4S, 3S"

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that - I've never had other than the stock cam in the bikes so I never looked at other cam specs. Is CNW using a stock type cam in their bikes? I would think so but I don't know. Maybe the "current" specs for the stock cam should be 006 for both as well?
 
MexicoMike said:
"All Norton race cams had the same clearances on inlet and exh. e.g. 4S, 3S"

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that - I've never had other than the stock cam in the bikes so I never looked at other cam specs. Is CNW using a stock type cam in their bikes? I would think so but I don't know. Maybe the "current" specs for the stock cam should be 006 for both as well?
Click to expand...


Hi Mike....I've never used a stock cam in any Norton (I've always raced them) but 4S is 16thou in &exh, PW3 is 11thou in & exh, it's down to the original design really.
 
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