Uh-oh!

what are the views on spray welding the rod journals? Say if at last grind, or to repair damaged surfaces, build them back up, and grind them... to standard size?
 
YukoNorton said:
what are the views on spray welding the rod journals? Say if at last grind, or to repair damaged surfaces, build them back up, and grind them... to standard size?
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so far, the plentiful supply of used cranks makes it a non-issue.

JMWO
 
concours said:
Foam ear plugs hidden under the welding ground clamp was always sure to inspire a raging hissey fit..... 🤬😡🤯

especially after lunch on payday, when most of the shop was drunk/stoned.🤡🤣
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We had very thin black plastic conveyor belting , I cut a piece welding lense size and slipped it in to a helmet , there was a lot of swearing 🤣🤣 , another good one is to , replace the tig tungsten with some sharpened stainless 1.6 tig wire 😄 ..
 
Shelby-Right said:
We had very thin black plastic conveyor belting , I cut a piece welding lense size and slipped it in to a helmet , there was a lot of swearing 🤣🤣 , another good one is to , replace the tig tungsten with some sharpened stainless 1.6 tig wire 😄 ..
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An evenly applied coat of Dykem blue layout on the filter plate brought it to about a shade 25....😜🤣
 
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Spray welding you can gain a couple points of hardness, might warp something as a guess. Try it let us know. Shipping cost in todays world might make spray welding cheaper!
 
concours said:
Foam ear plugs hidden under the welding ground clamp was always sure to inspire a raging hissey fit..... 🤬😡🤯

especially after lunch on payday, when most of the shop was drunk/stoned.🤡🤣
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Hilti caps under the earth clamp with a bit of card isolating the other side work well
Also a liberal amount of pepper sprinkled in the Dyson hand dryer can cause confusion
 
Placing a few chips of dry ice in a snap-capped plastic test tube, then slipping it in a someone's lab coat pocket was always entertaining in our lab.
 
mean gene said:
Sorry Larry I led this group off the path. As to return , what's new with your Uh-oh?
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I don’t mind about the derail. I have sourced a good used connecting rod from a forum member and will be ordering bearing shells, rod bolts/nuts, piston/ring set and gasket/seal kit tomorrow. I’m in no rush now. As soon as I have all parts and materials on hand I will assemble the motor by the book paying double attention to detail. Good thing I like wrenching I guess.
 
I started the reassembly last night. Cleaned up the crankshaft and reassembled using red loktite on all nuts. New +10 shells lightly smeared with oil inserted in the connecting rods and caps. Reused the rod bolts with new nuts. I didn't use any loktite on the rod bolts as the book did not specify doing so. And yes, I inserted the rods with the oil holes facing outwards. Ready to assemble the cases tonight!
 

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Larry S said:
I started the reassembly last night. Cleaned up the crankshaft and reassembled using red loktite on all nuts. New +10 shells lightly smeared with oil inserted in the connecting rods and caps. Reused the rod bolts with new nuts. I didn't use any loktite on the rod bolts as the book did not specify doing so. And yes, I inserted the rods with the oil holes facing outwards. Ready to assemble the cases tonight!
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I've been excoriated for using Loctite on rod nuts. Recommended method is dry torqued.
 
I've got the cases all bolted up and now I'm on to the timing side. I believe I've got the intermediate gear lined up correctly but I want to be positive. Is this correct? I've got the 10 rollers between marks or six links however you prefer.
 

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Best to put some protective sleeves around those rods Larry while in this phase - you don’t want to Nick or score them . hardware store foam pipe insulation works well .
 
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