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Could someone please confirm whether the intermediate gear is in the correct position? I would like to continue on with the reassembly but I seem to be always second guessing myself. You know, checking the same things four or five times and the one more time just to be sure. Thanks.
 
From the Mick Hemmings Heavyweight Twin Engine DVD ..
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Ten pins - six links - dots lined up on crank pinion and half time pinion .
 
Richard Tool said:
Best to put some protective sleeves around those rods Larry while in this phase - you don’t want to Nick or score them . hardware store foam pipe insulation works well .
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Sorry to derail the thread momentarily. They are a great idea but just remember to remove them.
I bought a T150 a few yrs back that just needed finishing ie cables hoses n paintwork. Motor was sorted new rods etc etc. to cut a long story short a few things niggled me about the quality of the engine build ie no engine sprocket tab washer, sump plate on back to front.
with these findings I decided to strip the motor completely when I got it down the drive side rod was still wearing the pipe insulation.
I dread to think what would have happened if I had started it with it in
 
Tripler said:
Sorry to derail the thread momentarily. They are a great idea but just remember to remove them.
I bought a T150 a few yrs back that just needed finishing ie cables hoses n paintwork. Motor was sorted new rods etc etc. to cut a long story short a few things niggled me about the quality of the engine build ie no engine sprocket tab washer, sump plate on back to front.
with these findings I decided to strip the motor completely when I got it down the drive side rod was still wearing the pipe insulation.
I dread to think what would have happened if I had started it with it in
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Wow - must have been quite a task to install pistons/ gugeons with pipe insulation on the rods !
 
Got the lower end all finished and buttoned up. Proper chain tension, primed oil pump with new gasket the right way around and new oil seal. New crank and cam seals in timing cover. Made sure plunger and spring were operating correctly. Greased gasket and installed outer cover. Installed the Power Arc E/I and cover. Tomorrow I’ll install the motor back in the frame. Thanks for everyone’s help with all my questions. Larry
 
Larry S said:
Got the lower end all finished and buttoned up. Proper chain tension, primed oil pump with new gasket the right way around and new oil seal. New crank and cam seals in timing cover. Made sure plunger and spring were operating correctly. Greased gasket and installed outer cover. Installed the Power Arc E/I and cover. Tomorrow I’ll install the motor back in the frame. Thanks for everyone’s help with all my questions. Larry
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Great feeling building a motor especially when it starts up for the 1st time. Hopefully see that vid soon 👍👍
 
Got the motor back in the frame today. Waiting for the machine shop to get done with my cylinders. I’m having them check the bore to see if they need any attention. In the meantime I’ll start assembling the primary just to keep on keeping on. Larry
 
Got my primary together today. Filled with 7 oz 20-50w. Book says to do it now lest you forget. So I did it now. Still waiting on my cylinders. I'm hoping I get a call from them tomorrow.
 

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Larry S said:
Got my primary together today. Filled with 7 oz 20-50w. Book says to do it now lest you forget. So I did it now. Still waiting on my cylinders. I'm hoping I get a call from them tomorrow.
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I have used type F ATF since the 1970s. Keeps the clutches from sticking or slipping.
 
Got my barrels back today. Bores are straight, round and true. No over bore needed. All they needed was a honing. Only $20.00, not bad for the peace of mind plus the honing.
 

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Here's a couple pics just because they look cool. One with a red shop rag under. The other a moving blanket.
 

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New base gasket and standard piston and ring set. Installed rings and inner circlips on both pistons. Installed the pistons in the cyclinders with room to insert the wrist pins. Used three deep well sockets inserted over the studs on the crankcase to rest the barrels on. Then I offered up the rods into the pistons using the rear wheel to maneuver the rods into place. Installed the wrist pins and circlips, removed the deep well sockets and lowered the barrels into place.
 

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Managed to single handily install the head by myself. Well, I actually used both hands. Installed a new composite head gasket. Zip tied the push rods together and inserted into the head. With a little bit of cussing I finally managed to get it installed. What a pain in the ass!
 

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