Finger tight? Could you turn the nuts with little resistance? If so, it seems more likely to me that it was all caused by the person who last assembled the engine re-using stiff nuts that were no longer stiff and perhaps not tightening them properly, not by a lack of lubrication.
Pay to measure properly with a micrometer, most of those verniers are made in China,
Shelby is right. That crank needs to be measured in tenths.
OP, did you follow this sage wisdom before sanding?
You are not using an accurate measuring device to be able to answer the question, use a calibrated micrometer and check in several locations so ovality is included.
I have the same radius gauge set; for the 0.090 radius, do you use the 3/32 radius gauge (0.093")?
Of course. The three thousands of an inch difference of radius, would be hard pressed to be discerned visually by even the most seasoned veteran machinist.
had to look; found this for $24;
A simple .180" gage pin (found in EVERY machine shop) swaddled with prussian blue will tell the story as wellhad to look; found this for $24;
Starrett® 167-090 - 167 Series™ 0.090" SAE Stainless Steel Radius Gauge
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A thin coat on the ear piece of the shop phone is always a good time
Foam ear plugs hidden under the welding ground clamp was always sure to inspire a raging hissey fit.....
